Whacking rear end links, questions...
Whacking rear end links, questions...
Ok, I have seen pics where some have cut their rear end links to correct placement of the swaybar after lowering.
Seen the pics, look nice, but... how the heck can you weld them together after cutting without melting out the rubber bushing?!? So far as I can tell from unbolting mine, the rubber and the shaft is integral to the link end. So cutting the shaft by the end, then rewelding to the same point after shortening, would tend to cook the bushing.
Whats the trick here?
Oh... and So-Cal has one dissatisfied customer here. After calling several times, I finally get a sales guy, give him all my info and credit card number, only to have nothing happen for the past week. No charge, no shipment, not impressed. Hence the quest to modify my stock parts.
Seen the pics, look nice, but... how the heck can you weld them together after cutting without melting out the rubber bushing?!? So far as I can tell from unbolting mine, the rubber and the shaft is integral to the link end. So cutting the shaft by the end, then rewelding to the same point after shortening, would tend to cook the bushing.
Whats the trick here?
Oh... and So-Cal has one dissatisfied customer here. After calling several times, I finally get a sales guy, give him all my info and credit card number, only to have nothing happen for the past week. No charge, no shipment, not impressed. Hence the quest to modify my stock parts.
cabraco - Has anybody tried leaving the end links alone and just drilling a different hole higher up on the frame rail? Would this work?
Will this work guys???
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Krix,
I bought the So-Cal kit but will be removing one in order to source the necessary parts once I get back from 'sniper ville' (in training this week).
As for the difference, I noticed an improvement even with having a panhard bar.
Bob
I bought the So-Cal kit but will be removing one in order to source the necessary parts once I get back from 'sniper ville' (in training this week).
As for the difference, I noticed an improvement even with having a panhard bar.
Bob
Re: Drilling frame...
I would be a bit apprehensive about drilling holes in the frame. I would be more apt to concur with L in Detroit and cut/weld in the middle of the link. As a failsafe you could slip a short length of steel pipe with the same I.D. as the O.D. of the link over it before welding, grind the first weld smooth and slip the pipe over the joint and weld the pipe to the link. Wrap the link ends in water soaked rags before welding and keep them wet throughout the welding process to act as a heat sink. Let the weld cool on its own, don't quench it or you'll jeapordize the structural integrity of the weldment.
Originally posted by cabraco
Has anybody tried leaving the end links alone and just drilling a different hole higher up on the frame rail? Would this work?
Has anybody tried leaving the end links alone and just drilling a different hole higher up on the frame rail? Would this work?

I did it when I installed the Mag-hytec rear diff cover and I needed clearance for the rear sway bar. The truck also seemed to handle better. I still have the end links mounted this way with no problems and the roush leaf springs with no problems.
Actually I did a search and I did it last Sept.
Look at this linkLooks like 99SVT did the same thing I did. He posted a picture of a remounted end link you can see. if you do this, do the driver side first, then passenger side.
Look at this linkLooks like 99SVT did the same thing I did. He posted a picture of a remounted end link you can see. if you do this, do the driver side first, then passenger side.




