Ok, I welt to Auto Zone last night and bought all the parts to do the boost bypass. Cost me less than 5 bucks as opposed to 25 from JDM. I have a couple of questions before I do this.

First I need to make sure which vacume hose it is and where it goes. Its the hard plastic pink vacume line that goes to the solenoid on the left rear of the supercharger. Correct? And it tees into the hard black plastic vacume line that goes into the cab of the truck, right???

Second, I tried to remove the vacume line from the rubber elbow a little earlier and I couldnt seem to gat it out of the elbow. I am a little afraid to use a pair of pliers beacuse I dont want to damage the vacume line. Any suggestions on getting it out of the elbow?

 

Here you go.
http://www.mdsonline.ca/Boost%20Bypa...dification.pdf

 

Well that answers one of my concerns, thankyou. I was almost sure thats how it was suppose to go but I wanted some reassurance before I went off and started moving vacume lines around.

Anyone know of an easy to ger the pink vacume line loose? it seemed to be in the rubber elbow pretty tight. I am just afraid I will screw it up if I use pliers.

 

Here is my origanal post and the photo the matchs the description. I wrote this for Doug. This should help.

The Lightning motor has a valve on the near the back of the blower on the drivers side that relieves or bypasses air past the blower. This valve serves two purposes on the Lightning motor. During high vacuum situations (when you are not requiring high power), air leaks around the blower to avoid ware on the blower drive and heat. Once the motor gets to 0 vacuum on it's way to boost, the valve is designed to close and allow the motor to build boost. The other function that this valve is designed to do is protect the motor from over-boost when the motor hits the rev limiter. The problem is that when this boost bypass is energized, it remains in that position for quite some period of time. This only seems to happen when doing tire warming at the track and the first time you find out that the bypass is in 0 boost mode is about 30 ft from the start line on your way to a 17sec @ 78 MPH pass. This mod is the 10 min and $3 solution to this problem. Note: I have heard that the boost bypass my come in with an over-heat situation and may also come in with the torque reduction if still active in your chip.

Remove the pink line from the top of the boost control diaphragm valve, (not the solenoid valve) and plug it. I used a 1/4" bolt cut to about 3/4 inch long but that still has about 1/4" of smooth shank so you don't get an air leak. You can use a 1/4" hose mender and a 1/4" cap.

Next, get 3/16" Tee at the auto parts store. Put this Tee into the boost hose that goes into the firewall and up to the boost gauge(there is a white 3/16" hose mender in this location stock). Get 9" of 3/16" rubber fuel line to go from this Tee to the top of the boost control valve.

The result is the computer will no longer have the ability to dump boost at the shift (torque reduction) or as part of the over-rev protection. The computer will never know and will not throw a soft or hard code. The boost bypass will still be active at idle through near zero vacuum, and closed shut in all boost conditions. Just be careful, The computer can't help protect you from over-revving and over-boosting or over-heating and doing
damage to the motor.

see http://www.ncs-stl.com/Images/BoostMod.jpg for photos

Andy

 

Ya like they said

 

Thanks for the help, boost bypass is completed and I must say for a very low price mod this makes a big diffrence when I am showing off