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Custom e-fan help, this thing is trouble

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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 04:34 PM
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From: Fl/Tenn
Custom e-fan help, this thing is trouble

Okay guys, first thing is that I would love to buy a "plug and play" e-fan from a tuner, but I'm a broke college student. I've been using the 2 speed e-fan out of a late model GT, and it's giving me lots of trouble. I've tried everything and consulted many people for some trouble shooting help, but you guys are my last resort.

I wired the fan with all 10 gauge wiring, a 30 amp on/off/on switch, and a 30 amp fuse. The fuse gets VERY hot after about 15 minutes, as well as the switch. The fuse blows all of the time, and even burned up 2 30 amp switches. So, I switched to a 30 amp Rockford Fostgate stereo type fuse assembly, and a 50 amp switch. The heat issue is still there though.

Now, this fan has an external capacitor (I think it's a capacitor) on the fan, that I assume is only used for the high speed circuit. It gets so hot that it scalds my hand to touch it. What did I do wrong? Do I need a relay? My wiring job is solid and looks like it should work flawlessly. This setup worries me, and if I can't fix it I'll have to go back to stock I'll try to make a diagram and post it later for you guys to review. Please help!

-Spencer
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 04:56 PM
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40 amp

i think all your components should be rated for 40 amp. What are you using for a temperature sensing unit? You should have relays in your system somewhere. Power from solenoid. Key on wire lead, temperature sensor lead and lead to fan. If you want it to come on with the a/c (you should), that's even more wiring and relays. Just save your pennies and buy a JDM kit before you burn your truck up like my buddy did to his camaro!!!
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 05:03 PM
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From: Fl/Tenn
No temp unit right now, just wired through a switch. After this headache, I'll definately buy a tuner fan kit when I can afford it. I know it's not very good, but here's a diagram of my wiring.

 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 05:40 PM
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From: shelby twp, mi
most likely the fan is the problem, u have a pretty simple setup there, without seeing the fan setup I cant really tell u how to wire it up, maybe get a wiring diagram from that model year mustang..

another cheap solution is get two ele fans, the 14 inch ones, from here, u already have the fan but it may be in question..
http://www.jaycorptech.com/

and wire up like so

this does not include the ac relay but will get it working.



just substitute the i/c fans in the writing for radiator fans, i originally wrote this up for someone inquiring about my ic fans setup..
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 06:10 PM
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From: Stinkin Joisey
See thats what makes this web-site so great
Friends helping friends
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 06:17 PM
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The 40amp rating is for the high speed on the fan and the 30amp rating works for the low speed on the fan

--Joe
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 06:23 PM
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It's difficult to say exactly what's wrong. You might be near the FLA of the motor so the wire and fuse will heat up because of the draw, but if you do have #10 fused at 30 amps you are ok. The fuse will open before any damage to the wire occurs. Do you know the FLA (full load amperage) for the motor? If you do the proper way to wire it would be to multiply the FLA by 150% to give you your fuse size, then choose the correct size wire by the fuse size. As for needing a relay, controls will not change the temp of your existing wiring. Also I can't think of any reason to have a capacitor in the circuit except for maybe noise suppression the motor doesn't need it to run (from what i remember of my dc theory).
 

Last edited by 2001SVT; Oct 6, 2002 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 06:46 PM
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Thanks guys. I'm not sure if it is a capacitor or not, I'll try to get a pic tonight. Thanks again.

-Spencer
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 07:13 PM
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Okay, here are pics of the capacitor thing that gets so hot. It will burn my hand like a stove!




This part came attached to the fan, which I ordered from Fordpartsonline. It's the same part# that I've seen many people post when making their own fan setup. Can I omitt it, or could it be defective and I should send it back
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 07:16 PM
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From: Fl/Tenn
Here's a pic of the connector


I hope I don't have to use my bedrug money to buy another fan assembly
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 07:50 PM
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From: shelby twp, mi
it looks like a resistor, if it is, it is going to get hot, looks like the inner part is ceramic if so, the heat is ok, I am assuming this is what makes it a two speed fan when the low speed is on the extra volts gets burned by this, in high speed it should be cooler, but that doesn’t account for the hot wires and switch..


Jim
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 08:06 PM
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Jim, you're right the center is ceramic. What you're saying makes sense. I may try a 40 amp fuse. I really do appreciate all the help guys.

-Spencer
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 08:53 PM
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From: shelby twp, mi
i dont see why u would need a 40amp, i have two 6.5 inch fans on a 20 amp fuse and a 30 amp replay, and 2 14 inch fans each on a 20 amp fuse and relay. sinch u are using a double pole switch im assuming one is for high and the other for low, if that is a voltage lowering resistor it is probally only needed for the stock setup where a thermal sensing device would tell the fan at which speed to operate, and the silver thing in the middle of the connector may be just that. do u have a pic of the fan or can u get a pic of at the very least the part of the fan where u make the ele connections..

jim
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 08:58 PM
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From: Allen, Texas
Spencer,

Before you up the fuse size, I would suggest measuring the voltage draw (while it is running *and* on start up) of the fan and use relays and fuses that are rated for it.

I have a Lincoln Mark VIII e-fan on my '93 Mustang GT and it draws 85 amps+ on start up, then levels off to 40 amps while it is running. I started with a standard Bosch relay (30 amps, I think) and it get hot enough for a melt down. Finally went to a heavy duty Bosch relay to keep from roasting the Mustang.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2002 | 09:00 PM
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From: TEXAS
Like he said it looks like a resistor. BUT Be careful we dont want you burning your truck to the ground

Find it hard to believe that it was designed to get that HOT. You may have it wired wrong

Doug
 
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