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Dremel and upper intake??

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Old Aug 20, 2002 | 09:51 PM
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Question Dremel and upper intake??

I was wondering if some you guys that have cleaned up theinside of the upper intake with the Dremel could pass along some of your knowledge. Which of the abrasive stones are the best for cutting this metal. I have found that the stones will load up with the metal and the sanding rings appear to work best. Also how do you get the nice shinny smooth finish you want on the finished product?? Any tips would be appreciated because righ now I am using the old trial and error method.

Thanks!!
 
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Old Aug 20, 2002 | 09:56 PM
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After I got mine back from Extrude Hone, I matched the openings to the size of the gaskets with a Dremel. The sanding drum works WAY better than the stone. I used one drum for the whole process.

After I removed the amount of material I wanted, I sanded everything smooth with 600 grit sandpaper.

Jason
 
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Old Aug 20, 2002 | 10:38 PM
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I haven't port matched mine yet, but what I've done so far:

http://captainoblivious.tripod.com/truck/intake.html
 
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Old Aug 20, 2002 | 11:39 PM
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A flapper wheel works great also

--Joe
 
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 07:55 AM
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Thanks for the info!!

Rob
 
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 09:16 AM
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I started with an 80 grit flapper then to a 120, then felt and compound.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 03:48 PM
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From what I understand, having it perfectly smooth in there doesn't help significantly, vs semi-smooth.

When I do mine, I'll probably pass on the polish step (leaving 320 wet-sand as the last step), and use the additional time to remove a little more material, and port match it perfectly...

Captainoblivious - I was just checking out your site. Looks great! How much time did you invest, overall? Is it a 1-day project? Maybe I can loose the wife and kid for a day and just DO it... I hear that there is a good gain to be found there, if you're over 10psi....
 
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 04:21 PM
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BlkBanshee - I say you can do it in a day. Mine took me a little over 9 hours over the course of the 3 or 4 days. However I was in no rush and had many interuptions.

I'm going to be pulling it and redo-ing it somewhat. After I finished I found out it's safe to remove the notches, plus I'm going to port match it to the blower.

By wet sanding with 400 grit sandpaper, and then about 10 minutes of light polishing with a dremel polishwheel, it was about as smooth as my patience would let it be. Overall many many times better then stock.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 04:44 PM
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how much power you guys think this is worth? 10 ft/lbs?
 
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Old Aug 21, 2002 | 05:15 PM
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Sickeningly enough, depending on boost, I've heard that eliminating some of the restriction there can pick up a bit more than that. I saw an (un-SAE-corrected extreme case of 20hp.)

I forget whose truck it was - but I saw a dyno sheet. The person was running about 18lbs of boost, stock blower.

That was an extrudehone job, though, where he port-matched after he got it back. Can any tuners chime in here with their experience on it?

Johnny doesn't count - I saw that upper that YOU have!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 02:55 PM
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Just wondering if anyone has thought about grinding down the casting for the bolt hole on the left, just after the throttle body. That obstruction looks like it would seriously disrupt flow. I was wondering if you could take that down and when you bolteted the upper plenum back on use some type of gasket material to make the bolt hole air tight.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 03:20 PM
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Originally posted by collins8
Just wondering if anyone has thought about grinding down the casting for the bolt hole on the left, just after the throttle body...
See what I wrote above:
I'm going to be pulling it and redo-ing it somewhat. After I finished I found out it's safe to remove the notches...
 
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 04:03 PM
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Sorry. I didn't realize we were talking about the same thing.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2002 | 04:14 PM
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I'll let you know how much I grind off when I do redo that part.
 
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