Is the top Pully really that bad to change ???
Is the top Pully really that bad to change ???
Hi All,
Is the top pully really that bad to change? I read all about the possibility of damage and the possibility of slipage but dam it would be soooooooooo much easier. I got to assume it's as simple as shocking off the bolt, using a puller to get it off and then putting the new one.
Any feed back will help.
That bottom one looks like a hassel to change.
"OR"
Anybody know any "GOOD" Lightning shops here in Suffolk County NY ?
Thanks
Is the top pully really that bad to change? I read all about the possibility of damage and the possibility of slipage but dam it would be soooooooooo much easier. I got to assume it's as simple as shocking off the bolt, using a puller to get it off and then putting the new one.
Any feed back will help.
That bottom one looks like a hassel to change.
"OR"
Anybody know any "GOOD" Lightning shops here in Suffolk County NY ?
Thanks
Rob:
Really depends on what your goal is. If you can settle for 2lbs. more that you have now, the upper is the way to go. If you want 4-10lbs. more, the lower is the best choice.
I suggest pulling the whole snout off and having the old pulley pressed off and the new one pressed on. 8oz. of S/C oil and your back in business.
But, that's just what I think...
Really depends on what your goal is. If you can settle for 2lbs. more that you have now, the upper is the way to go. If you want 4-10lbs. more, the lower is the best choice.
I suggest pulling the whole snout off and having the old pulley pressed off and the new one pressed on. 8oz. of S/C oil and your back in business.
But, that's just what I think...
Man, right in our backyard and never heard of PSP?
The problem with the top pulley change is that it's not just held in by a bolt. The pulley on the M112 Eaton is pressed on with a 5 ton press. They do make tools to remove the uppers, but it's a crap shoot, sometimes they pop right off, and sometimes you snap the puller tool in half and/or damage the snout. The problem is you don't know which is going to happen until you try it. That is why we designed the lower pulley back in 99. Some people remove the snout and use a press, but that's not the right way either. The reason being the inside nose drive bearing. Only Magnuson and Eaton have the tool that supports that bearing during pulley removal. Doing it without that tool risks knocking the inside bearing out of place, which will ruin the nose drive over time as it wears improperly.
Hope this helps, and BTW, we are in Sound Beach.
The problem with the top pulley change is that it's not just held in by a bolt. The pulley on the M112 Eaton is pressed on with a 5 ton press. They do make tools to remove the uppers, but it's a crap shoot, sometimes they pop right off, and sometimes you snap the puller tool in half and/or damage the snout. The problem is you don't know which is going to happen until you try it. That is why we designed the lower pulley back in 99. Some people remove the snout and use a press, but that's not the right way either. The reason being the inside nose drive bearing. Only Magnuson and Eaton have the tool that supports that bearing during pulley removal. Doing it without that tool risks knocking the inside bearing out of place, which will ruin the nose drive over time as it wears improperly.
Hope this helps, and BTW, we are in Sound Beach.
Originally posted by TampaSVT
Rob:
I suggest pulling the whole snout off and having the old pulley pressed off and the new one pressed on. 8oz. of S/C oil and your back in business.
Rob:
I suggest pulling the whole snout off and having the old pulley pressed off and the new one pressed on. 8oz. of S/C oil and your back in business.
im not happy with just two, now im getting a lower.
i would say go with the lower, less of a pain. plus you can upgrade if you change your mind.
good luck.
Originally posted by kylightning
i agree, mine came with no puller and i took apon myself to cut my stock upper off with a dremal tool. took hours and had to worry about cutting the shaft.
i agree, mine came with no puller and i took apon myself to cut my stock upper off with a dremal tool. took hours and had to worry about cutting the shaft.
Rob you lucky bastard!!!!
You have a tuner VERY close by-----damn your lucky. You have a lot less trial and error when you can actually drive your truck to their shop.
The nearest tuner for me is about 1000miles away
Jason
You have a tuner VERY close by-----damn your lucky. You have a lot less trial and error when you can actually drive your truck to their shop.The nearest tuner for me is about 1000miles away
Jason
I have a puller tool for the upper pulley. I have removed and installed the aftermarket pulley 3 times. No problems.
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Originally posted by TampaSVT
Holy *****! That had to be ugly...
Holy *****! That had to be ugly...
Originally posted by easterisland
I have a puller tool for the upper pulley. I have removed and installed the aftermarket pulley 3 times. No problems.
I have a puller tool for the upper pulley. I have removed and installed the aftermarket pulley 3 times. No problems.
rob-
yes, you are lucky you live that close to a tuner, i would have to trailer mine.
im like 8-10 hours to the closest tuner.
Does any one know if the tuners ever race near KY.??
Sorry Sal,
Been in the site a million times and never noticed the (631) area code, stupid me
The site doesn't talk about installation, is that available for things like a 4lb lower pully, maybe a set of plugs,
lowering the rear, etc... Now that I think about it, there's always mention of a Sal in lots of these post, that be you I assume ?
Rob
Been in the site a million times and never noticed the (631) area code, stupid me
The site doesn't talk about installation, is that available for things like a 4lb lower pully, maybe a set of plugs, lowering the rear, etc... Now that I think about it, there's always mention of a Sal in lots of these post, that be you I assume ?
Rob
save yourself alot of trouble and drive over to sals shop and talk to him about putting the lower pulley on.take alot of money cause its want stop with just a pulley. sal can help you do anything to your truck you want and he is a heck of a nice guy.
Thanks Everyone,
Your feedback is always helpful and as an extra bonus I found a local Tunner. Way to go Brothers and Sisters. See ya soon Sal
Your feedback is always helpful and as an extra bonus I found a local Tunner. Way to go Brothers and Sisters. See ya soon Sal
Last edited by Rob_02Lightning; Aug 4, 2002 at 01:40 PM.
Hey Rob, the shop is run here at my house, since it's just me doing to the work, there is no reason for the huge overhead of a multi-bay facility.
Everything we list for the 01s works on the 02s, the site just hasn't been updated yet. We do not sell caged pulleys, we sell uncaged pulleys, which are my original design from back in 99. Things like lowering kits, bedrugs and cosmetic items I can get quickly, as I have access to a huge parts warehouse. We have our own throttle bodies being made, but I don't have an exact ETA on them.
We can do installations on most parts here, by appointment. We also do custom dyno tuning, and use a local Mustang shops dyno. If you have specific questions, feel free to call us.
Everything we list for the 01s works on the 02s, the site just hasn't been updated yet. We do not sell caged pulleys, we sell uncaged pulleys, which are my original design from back in 99. Things like lowering kits, bedrugs and cosmetic items I can get quickly, as I have access to a huge parts warehouse. We have our own throttle bodies being made, but I don't have an exact ETA on them.
We can do installations on most parts here, by appointment. We also do custom dyno tuning, and use a local Mustang shops dyno. If you have specific questions, feel free to call us.


