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Lower Pully ?

Old Jun 18, 2002 | 12:03 PM
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Lower Pully ?

Just ordered the lower pully and was looking through the 19 page JDM instructions. Is it really as hard (meaning pain in the ***) as it looks. How long did this take some of you guys to do? Im thinking its gonna take more than one day, but i could just be intimidated by the instructions. Any comments would help.
Thanks
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 12:09 PM
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I don't know about the JDM pulley set up, it can't be much different than the JL. I put a JL lower pulley on a friends truck in less than 30 minutes the other day. This was going from the stock pulley set up for the first time on his L. Are you going to have to change out the cage? I don't know much about JDM.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 12:10 PM
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Re: Lower Pully ?

Originally posted by jeff2001silver
Just ordered the lower pully and was looking through the 19 page JDM instructions. Is it really as hard (meaning pain in the ***) as it looks. How long did this take some of you guys to do? Im thinking its gonna take more than one day, but i could just be intimidated by the instructions. Any comments would help.
Thanks
You can do a search and find some info, but here is what I know...

I just installed my 4lb'r 2 weeks ago...

took me 45 minutes from the first bolt to test drive time...

You DO NOT need to remove the fan shroud or loosen the fan... just lock the engine (with the converter strap or other means) remove the top pulley cage nut from the top, get the other two from below, break the pulley loose (reverse threading!) pull it off and drop it out the bottom... slip the new one up and reverse proceedure... remove the engine stop!!! break the little stopper tab on the tensioner so that you can compress it more to make the belt fit ( a hammer and long flat blade screw driver work well) put the belt on and give her he||...
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 01:04 PM
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good, I was thinking the fan and the shroud would be the hardest part.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 01:40 PM
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Hardest part is locking the engine and breaking that factory pulley loose. Get the engine locked correctly and get ready to pull like &%$ to get that reverse threaded pulley off. Other than that, it is a cake walk.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 04:06 PM
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Stupid as I may sound, I didn't even lock the engine - Giving the ratchet a good smack with a 5lb sledge broke it loose without locking the motor. Took me less than 30 minutes to install my JL - No cage, though.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 04:35 PM
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Re: Lower Pully ?

Originally posted by jeff2001silver
Just ordered the lower pully and was looking through the 19 page JDM instructions. Is it really as hard (meaning pain in the ***) as it looks. How long did this take some of you guys to do? Im thinking its gonna take more than one day, but i could just be intimidated by the instructions. Any comments would help.
Thanks
The instructions are a bit dated... As was said ealrier it is easier and faster to install from bottom..
If you can get the old one to break loose in 5 minutes or less the whole job including jacking the truck up onto stands should take less than an hour.
Doug
 

Last edited by Silver_2000; Jun 18, 2002 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 04:44 PM
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what size socket or wrench is needed for the old pully nut???
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 05:27 PM
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I didnt have to lock my motor either..Less than 30mins start to finish..Dont remember the stock bolt size though
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 05:29 PM
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14mm hex, I believe, for the stock pulley. I had to use a big @$$ breaker bar to get mine loose, it was not fun.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 06:36 PM
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Slight grinding noise w/2# lower

Hello All!
Is it normal to get pulley / blower noise when installing a 2# lower pulley? At idle (in gear)we get a slight grinding sound, but just off idle the noise goes away for the most part. Does the 'CAGE ASSY' (oem) absorb the noise we are now noticing. I'm tempted to re-install the original lower assy, just to satisfy my curiosity. Onr thing for sure, is this noise was immediate when installing the 2#der.

Thank You!

Jmd
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 09:10 PM
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You will get this noise with any size pulley, it is related to the amount of air the S/C is pumping and the size our by-pass valve was designed for. You are now pumping more then the engine wants to eat at idle and it can't by-pass any extra. If you want you can have your chip burned to raise the idle about 75 rpms and it sounds alot better to me.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 09:39 PM
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From: sanford n.c. u.s.a.
get a 1/2 drive 14 mm socket,long pull bar,and about a 2 foot helper pipe.lock the motor down,give a good tug and it will break loose.a lift would also be nice.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 10:00 PM
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Like the guys said above,its a real easy job. Just get your truck up on jackstands or on ramps and do everything from below.
The pully bolt is on tight but I sliped a 2 1/2 foot pipe over my ratchet and it broke loose without too much fuss.

Heres another thing...
I couldnt get a ratchet and socket into the bellhousing to get to the torque converter bolt{to install the motor lock} and I couldnt get a good enough bite with a wrench, so i used a 3/8 drive breaker bar and a socket and that worked like a champ.

Andy G
 
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Old Jun 18, 2002 | 10:04 PM
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Yes...more than the bypass can handle...

at idle Thank you usahooters! Now you mention it, the sound is the same as when pulling the vacuum supply from the bypass

Maybe we don't have a bad bearing after all.

Thank you!

Jmd
 
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