For those who installed a lowering kit...
For those who installed a lowering kit...
My Ground Force kit arrived yesterday, and I am am going to try and install it on Friday night. Any tips or tricks for installation? What kind of time am I looking at to install? Thanks.
Jack up the lower control arms far as possible to make the shock removal easier. And get the front end up high enough so that the lower control arm can drop down low enough to take the spring out.
Note:
There is absolutely NO reason to seperate the ball joint from the spindle or remove the tie rod end. NONE, NADA, NO WAY!
Remove the upper a-arm bolts and replace with a Kit from NAPA (you should to do this anyway) and post drop alignment is mandatory anyway.
A spring compressor is not necessary but a ratchet strap or chain through the spring coils and securely fastened to the frame is a good idea the first time you do this. Safety Safety
Jack up the truck a good height
remove the wheel
remove 9/16" nuts on the bottom of the shock
undo the plastic connectors that hold the ABS tubing
use a 13/16" open end/close end wrench for the nut under the upper shock mount. 13/16" deep socket and some extensions for the drivers side, no extensions for the passenger.
remove shock
use floor jack to slightly compress spring
remove the sway bar end link
remove 10mm bolt holding the brake line
remove the upper a-arm bolts
pull/swing upper a-arm out of the way
SLOWLY lower the control arm.
spring will pop out
remove rubber gasket on the top of the spring and attach to new unit (if the top of the spring isn't flat)
reverse the steps
insert the cam bolts so the nuts are facing the front and rear of the vehicle (makes alignment easier at the shop)
dats it
There is absolutely NO reason to seperate the ball joint from the spindle or remove the tie rod end. NONE, NADA, NO WAY!
Remove the upper a-arm bolts and replace with a Kit from NAPA (you should to do this anyway) and post drop alignment is mandatory anyway.
A spring compressor is not necessary but a ratchet strap or chain through the spring coils and securely fastened to the frame is a good idea the first time you do this. Safety Safety
Jack up the truck a good height
remove the wheel
remove 9/16" nuts on the bottom of the shock
undo the plastic connectors that hold the ABS tubing
use a 13/16" open end/close end wrench for the nut under the upper shock mount. 13/16" deep socket and some extensions for the drivers side, no extensions for the passenger.
remove shock
use floor jack to slightly compress spring
remove the sway bar end link
remove 10mm bolt holding the brake line
remove the upper a-arm bolts
pull/swing upper a-arm out of the way
SLOWLY lower the control arm.
spring will pop out
remove rubber gasket on the top of the spring and attach to new unit (if the top of the spring isn't flat)
reverse the steps
insert the cam bolts so the nuts are facing the front and rear of the vehicle (makes alignment easier at the shop)
dats it
Speedin Bob - Are the upper A-arm bolts the cam bolt kit? If so, the dealer already put those on about 3,000 miles ago. Thanks for your step by step procedure.
Anything else I should be aware of? Can I accomplish this in a reasonable amount of time? Am I looking at a day long process here?
Anything else I should be aware of? Can I accomplish this in a reasonable amount of time? Am I looking at a day long process here?
93,
since you have the cam bolts already, one less part to buy.
another tip would be to scribe around the lobe of the cam bolt to give you an idea of where it was. the camber will be off but just for reference purposes. you wouldn't want an abundance of positive camber
I'd allow about an hour and a half for the front springs and about the same for the rear shackles then take the rest of the day for a test drive and post install libations, or something.
once you've driven a few miles, check the front and rear bumpstops. They may require trimming or replacement.
Dont forget the sway bar end links will be off as well, especially the rear.
Bob
since you have the cam bolts already, one less part to buy.

another tip would be to scribe around the lobe of the cam bolt to give you an idea of where it was. the camber will be off but just for reference purposes. you wouldn't want an abundance of positive camber

I'd allow about an hour and a half for the front springs and about the same for the rear shackles then take the rest of the day for a test drive and post install libations, or something.

once you've driven a few miles, check the front and rear bumpstops. They may require trimming or replacement.
Dont forget the sway bar end links will be off as well, especially the rear.
Bob


