I know some of you wanted to see this, so, here it is. A really bad pic of my dual fan setup on the intercooler - The fans are wired directly into the relay for the water pump on the intercooler, therefore, whenever there is water running through the radiator, the fans are running.

 

Thats a nice setup man!!

Have you track tested it?

 

That's very nice work! Where did you get the fans?

 

Haven't track tested it, but I did a temp test. 85 degree day, I took the truck out and beat it. (in boost for over 70% of the ride...) Came back, measured the temp. of the intercooler coolant - 87 degrees. Did the same run, after the fans were installed and working (less than an hour cooldown time), and measured the temp - 74 degrees. I'd say it works pretty well, ESPECIALLY if I have to stop at a light - my coolant temp will drop 10 degrees in about 2 minutes with the fans going....

So far, so good!

Too bad I keep getting a check engine light because my coolant temp is too low, though....

 

Got the fans from www.jaycorptech.com, along with the mounting pins. I did all of the wiring custom.

I'll type up a little how-to pretty soon....

 

Lucy, you got some susplaining to do. . . .

How could the intercooler water be lower than ambient? Think about it . . . where did this lower-than-ambient cooling medium come from? Those new fans are pushing ambient air, not cooler-than-ambient air. The core is getting air _much_ warmer than ambient--that's the whole point of the intercooler. There is simply no medium cooler than ambient on either end of the intercooler loop, or anywhere in between.

The only possible explanations: (1) your measurements are off, (2) the intercooler water inexplicably cooled below ambient between runs and had not yet warmed up, (3) the intercooler water is cleverly routed through the air conditioning loop, (4) you drive in a parallel universe where the laws of physics do not apply, or (5) the damage to my brain from a misspent youth is catching up with me.

This is not meant to be a slam. Your fan setup and installation tips are great and your effort in posting the pics and results is sincerely appreciated. However, it's important that we get the facts right.

Thanks again for the pics.

 

Tim -

Don't know how to explain it, but I can say that the measurement device was not the most accurate. (digital meat thermometer )

How sweet would it be if I routed it through the AC? Too bad I would probably lose more power through running the compressor than through the cooling...

Otherwise, I just wanted to, more than anything, note the tremendous 13 degree difference between runs.

I actually want to get some type of a datalogging setup that will let me measure the absolute intake temp... THAT would be key...

 

I'll explain it,when you run air accelerated thru a confined area(coils) the increase in air speed makes it cooler.example we run compressed air thru a defuser at work and pump it into an insultated box its 90 deg. outside but the box is a refridgerator it works,or blow compressed air between pinched fingers... it gets cooler, try it. so maybe the fan air speed is good for 15 degrees

 

Sweet. Thanks, Frank. I kind of knew that, the whole 'velocity=temp. drop' thing, but didn't know 100% if it was true...

 

Also, the fans are 330CFM each. That's probably as much air as comes in through the air intake

 

Glad you didn't take the post the wrong way.

I think that an intake temp gauge from Autometer (Ultralite part #4372) will be my first "performance" upgrade, even when I get around to the engine. I get shivers hearing about running 6# pullies with ragged-edge tuning when the Eaton 116 is, according to my calculations, being massively overdriven STOCK:

Stock @ stock redline: about 13K rpms
6# pulley @ stock redline: 16K
Eaton specs: 12K max

See http://www.automotive.eaton.com/prod...rols/M112.html

I wonder if the SVT version has different clearances or bearings. But, even if it does, the efficiency is already in the toilet by 10K.

As a brand new L owner (so what do I know?), excessive boost + anyone-but-Ford's idea of proper fuel curves, timing, and redline = scary. Watching intercooler and intake temps, especially in a modded engine, seems like a great idea. Maybe if someone comes out with a knock sensor-enabled chip, I'll give one a try.

 

Well, from what I read, the specs on the Eaton that SVT used are 15k RPM... Don't remember where I read that though. Either way, I'm still way over spec...

I'm currently running a Diablo chip from Johnny Lightning, and it's definately running towards the rich side, (AFR is around 11.2, all the way to redline, give or take a couple of tenths here and there...), and the shift point is at 5400RPM... Anything over that, and you pretty much LOSE speed...

As for a knock-enabled chip, I hear that the Delta chip from Diablo encorporates a knock sensor. It's a flip chip, too.

I agree, though, it would be nice if my truck would kick back on the timing a bit when it's overly hot & humid, or the gas sucks!

 

Another thing - I'll DEFINATELY be looking into that gauge... Only prob is, where does it read the temp from? The temp sensor in the air intake, or at the manifold?

 

i think JL has the new knock sensor chip?

 

Noelvm has an intercooler temp guage on his truck and swears by it for Bracket racing. Perhaps we can get him to reveal the details.

An autotap or other ODB2 scanner will tell you intake air temp BUT Im not sure where the sensor is - Before or after the intercooler... I think it is before...

Even with moving the air much faster I doubt you really cooled all that liquid 15 degrees cooler than ambient... ( For comparison - a 220 volt compressor driven home AC unit is only designed to lower temps 20 degrees from intake to output )

But the fans are cool. I know Sixpipes has them on his and likes them.

Doug