installed Bilstiens
I added Bilsteins and Eibachs a couple of months ago, there is definitely a lift to the rear. I like the rake look. Handling is much better. I also got new tires and alignment today. Big difference. Feels like a whole new truck.
I just picked up my new Bilsteins and the rear adapter nuts for $154.00 at my dealership. I also had them install them for $50.00 since I heard that the left rear is a pain in the a$$ to install. The service guys were moanin' about the left rear install. My right rear shock was leaking. The ride is smoother! I did not notice a change in the rake of the truck. I think it is an excellent upgrade!!!
I just finished installing the new Bilstein's. Haven't had a chance tod rive it much, the the ride doesn't seems any stuffer, and I'll check the handling on the way to work. I noticed a little bit of fluid running out of both rears. By doing a high tech test on both by just using bodily foce to compress the shocks, the Bilstein's are much stiffer than the old stock ones.
As far as ride height...I measured before and after along the center of the wheel to the fenders...
Front--
--stock--32 1/4
--Bilst---32 3/4 (a touch under actually)
Rear--
--stock--32
--Bilst---32 1/4
I think most of the difference is just new shocks compared to the old ones. I will measure again in a day or so after I've driven it a little bit.
And yes, the left rear is a P.I.T.A.!!!!!!!! I ended up lowering the spare and unbolting the filter or whatever runs across right above the rear axle. That made it easier to gets wrenches in there. The other 3 aren't bad at all.
Tips:
1) on the front, when sliding the shocks in or out, go into the a-arm from towards the center of the truck. You won't have to jack it up as far. The hole in the lower a-arm is kinda oval shaped.
2) I jacked up the rear from the hitch reciever on whichever side I was working on. It kept the jack out of the way of the creeper and the frame is raised around the rear suspension, so finding a spot low enough was tricky.
3) The front shocks came with new upper nuts, the rears do NOT.
4) On the rear shocks, DO NOT cut the shipping straps until AFTER you get them up in the truck. I cut one prior and is was a pain to get it up in there. On the other, I installed the lower bolt, that left about a 1" gap for the upper mount. I just lined it up and cut it. When it expanded, it went right into the hole.
As far as ride height...I measured before and after along the center of the wheel to the fenders...
Front--
--stock--32 1/4
--Bilst---32 3/4 (a touch under actually)
Rear--
--stock--32
--Bilst---32 1/4
I think most of the difference is just new shocks compared to the old ones. I will measure again in a day or so after I've driven it a little bit.
And yes, the left rear is a P.I.T.A.!!!!!!!! I ended up lowering the spare and unbolting the filter or whatever runs across right above the rear axle. That made it easier to gets wrenches in there. The other 3 aren't bad at all.
Tips:
1) on the front, when sliding the shocks in or out, go into the a-arm from towards the center of the truck. You won't have to jack it up as far. The hole in the lower a-arm is kinda oval shaped.
2) I jacked up the rear from the hitch reciever on whichever side I was working on. It kept the jack out of the way of the creeper and the frame is raised around the rear suspension, so finding a spot low enough was tricky.
3) The front shocks came with new upper nuts, the rears do NOT.
4) On the rear shocks, DO NOT cut the shipping straps until AFTER you get them up in the truck. I cut one prior and is was a pain to get it up in there. On the other, I installed the lower bolt, that left about a 1" gap for the upper mount. I just lined it up and cut it. When it expanded, it went right into the hole.
4) On the rear shocks, DO NOT cut the shipping straps until AFTER you get them up in the truck. I cut one prior and is was a pain to get it up in there. On the other, I installed the lower bolt, that left about a 1" gap for the upper mount. I just lined it up and cut it. When it expanded, it went right into the hole
Now that I've had a chance to drive my Lightning this last week for several hundred miles, I've had a chance to get a feel for the Bilstien shocks. The one item that I don't like about the rear shocks is the shaft's resistance to compress at a high velocities, even though a shock dyno states otherwise (not one done by me). As a result, the rear suspension is easily upset at high speed when hitting imperfections and/or bumps in the road, even though it's relatively a soft suspension. For this reason, I would NOT want to use them on a road course.
To illustrate the soft suspension in a non scientific fashion, I can walk in the bed and the rear moves easily but doesn't oscillate. I would expect this because of the spring rates and the shock damping at low velocities isn't stiff although it disippates energy. On the other hand, my other suspension (now in a box) wouldn't move much if I walked around the bed. Yet, it would deflect on bumps at high speeds and wouldn't get upset because the shocks allowed it to move.
I may install my old suspension on the new Lightning tomorrow. At the least, I'm putting the QA1's on.
Spike
To illustrate the soft suspension in a non scientific fashion, I can walk in the bed and the rear moves easily but doesn't oscillate. I would expect this because of the spring rates and the shock damping at low velocities isn't stiff although it disippates energy. On the other hand, my other suspension (now in a box) wouldn't move much if I walked around the bed. Yet, it would deflect on bumps at high speeds and wouldn't get upset because the shocks allowed it to move.
I may install my old suspension on the new Lightning tomorrow. At the least, I'm putting the QA1's on.
Spike
After driving it for a few days now, overall, I think the Bilstein's were a good upgrade. The cornering/handling is noticably better and the ride isn't much stiffer.
I drove on a brick road yesterday, and I saw what Spike was talking about. The rear end is a little more jumpy than with the stock 99's on there.
On the highway, it feels much more stable.
I drove on a brick road yesterday, and I saw what Spike was talking about. The rear end is a little more jumpy than with the stock 99's on there.
On the highway, it feels much more stable.
Originally posted by Z28KLR
I went to ford parts online and go their phone number, $170 shiped to my house the next day, I told them i had a 2000 and they knew about the adaptors for the rear.
I went to ford parts online and go their phone number, $170 shiped to my house the next day, I told them i had a 2000 and they knew about the adaptors for the rear.


