Line Valve Mod
Hey "L"er's..Im doing the line valve mod this weekend and inst. are'nt very clear,,Do I remove the Valve Body to do this ?
Thanks ,Ted O.
Thanks ,Ted O.
It's not like the dodge, at least not like mine. this one is very easy. it's sectionalized and you only have to unscrew a small section of the assy. the picture you have on your instruction, is the small section only, so if you look at the entire assy, it's a little confusing
You have to remove the frontmost valve body (towards the front of the truck) to install the line mod valve. Once you have it out you will need to remove the retention spring that holds the factory valve in and it will just come right out. Then slide the new valve in its place, replace the retention spring and reinstall the valve body. All done
I hope this helps...
I hope this helps...
I swapped out my valve body with one of the Factory Tech pieces last weekend. The hardest part is probably dealing with draining the stock pan. I got one of the B&M deep sump pans to replace it, so rather than unbolt the pan and have the fluid come cascading out at me, I punched a hole in the bottom and let it drain that way.
Additionally, when you remove the filter, have the drain pan handy again, about another 1/2 quart of fluid's going to come gushing out when you pull it down. Make sure you upend the filter over your drain pan too, it's holding some fluid up in the top.
The seal ring that seats the filter up in the pump inlet comes out fairly easily if you're not stupid like me. Take a small screwdriver and move one side down a little, then the other, basically rocking it back and forth. The ring is actually peach colored rubber type stuff coating a hard inner, so pulling it apart piece by piece gets you nothing. (Guess how I know.)
Also, when you drop the forward valve body, it's 11 bolts/nuts, and it's also holding more fluid. Did I say be ready with the drain pain? ;-)
Make sure you have a in/lbs torque wrench to put it all back in (80 in/lbs), start with the middle bolts and work your way out.
Additionally, when you remove the filter, have the drain pan handy again, about another 1/2 quart of fluid's going to come gushing out when you pull it down. Make sure you upend the filter over your drain pan too, it's holding some fluid up in the top.
The seal ring that seats the filter up in the pump inlet comes out fairly easily if you're not stupid like me. Take a small screwdriver and move one side down a little, then the other, basically rocking it back and forth. The ring is actually peach colored rubber type stuff coating a hard inner, so pulling it apart piece by piece gets you nothing. (Guess how I know.)
Also, when you drop the forward valve body, it's 11 bolts/nuts, and it's also holding more fluid. Did I say be ready with the drain pain? ;-)
Make sure you have a in/lbs torque wrench to put it all back in (80 in/lbs), start with the middle bolts and work your way out.
Thanks for all your input,,MRBBQMAN,SMJayman,dealerjim, I'm doing it now..The pan is draining ( drilled a hole in it),I have the 4X4 pan and filter to go back on..
I love doing this stuff,even at 61 yrs old...
I love doing this stuff,even at 61 yrs old...
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I like the line valve mod much better then firmming up the shifts with the chip..When I had my chip reburned for my pulley,I ask JDM to leave the shifts normal,But keep the cutout of dropping 4 cyc.s on the 1-2- shift..And It shifts great now..Thanks again guys for you input,,Helped a lot...


