Hotchkis Swaybars....Why?
Can someone give me a compelling argument to spend $500 dollars on the swaybars. I put their springs on and I think once I get the right shocks, the truck will handle really good and have pretty good balance.
I think I've heard the Hotchkis bars are lighter; has anyone put them on after theri springs and what have you observed?
I think I've heard the Hotchkis bars are lighter; has anyone put them on after theri springs and what have you observed?
NeedFourSpeed-
I'm with you. Why?
(I will be shocked if anyone can deliver an acceptable answer)
90% of the people who are happy with their $500 bars didn't test the stockers with the correct length end-links and a higher average rate spring with good shocks. If they had, they wouldn't have shelled out the 500 clams.
Unless they are trying to campaign an autocross effort. Then I say go HUGE or go home.
I'm with you. Why?
(I will be shocked if anyone can deliver an acceptable answer)
90% of the people who are happy with their $500 bars didn't test the stockers with the correct length end-links and a higher average rate spring with good shocks. If they had, they wouldn't have shelled out the 500 clams.
Unless they are trying to campaign an autocross effort. Then I say go HUGE or go home.
WrongdayJ -
Not trying to imply that they are a waste; just trying to figure out if they are worth the investment for me. Heck, the weight savings may be enough for some people.
Silver-Bolt -
Thanks for the input. Did you ever run the springs with the stock sway bars or did you do your whole package all at once?
I think I will spend my first bills on some decent shocks and go from there.
Not trying to imply that they are a waste; just trying to figure out if they are worth the investment for me. Heck, the weight savings may be enough for some people.
Silver-Bolt -
Thanks for the input. Did you ever run the springs with the stock sway bars or did you do your whole package all at once?
I think I will spend my first bills on some decent shocks and go from there.
Originally posted by Silver-Bolt
They are lighter (tubular). Flater conering. The hollow bars react quicker...
They are lighter (tubular). Flater conering. The hollow bars react quicker...
Though I would be hesitant about changing the rear bar.
OK-
1. They are lighter. I agree. A hollow bar is lighter than a solid one.
2. They corner flatter. In and of themselves, the improvement is marginal. Not worth the price tag unless all of the other support equipment is in place.
3. They react quicker. ??? The speed at which a suspension 'reacts' has little to do with the swaybar being hollow or solid. Shocks, springs, and vehicle weight (sprung & unsprung) are more influential to that. A solid bar transfers torsional force better (given that the bars are the same size, length, etc.). If they do 'react' quicker, it's probably more a function of the arm/lever length and the fact that the Hotchkiss bar is geometrically altered to enhance it's mecahnical advantage.
IF all the other pieces are in place, then I agree with you. I know alot of people that are thrilled with their bars. As a stand alone mod, I'm still not convinced that they earn their keep. In fact, Addco is releasing one hell of a good soild replacement bar that I'm testing right now. . .& it's WAY cheaper.
1. They are lighter. I agree. A hollow bar is lighter than a solid one.
2. They corner flatter. In and of themselves, the improvement is marginal. Not worth the price tag unless all of the other support equipment is in place.
3. They react quicker. ??? The speed at which a suspension 'reacts' has little to do with the swaybar being hollow or solid. Shocks, springs, and vehicle weight (sprung & unsprung) are more influential to that. A solid bar transfers torsional force better (given that the bars are the same size, length, etc.). If they do 'react' quicker, it's probably more a function of the arm/lever length and the fact that the Hotchkiss bar is geometrically altered to enhance it's mecahnical advantage.
IF all the other pieces are in place, then I agree with you. I know alot of people that are thrilled with their bars. As a stand alone mod, I'm still not convinced that they earn their keep. In fact, Addco is releasing one hell of a good soild replacement bar that I'm testing right now. . .& it's WAY cheaper.
HeywrongdayJ, I put a lowering kit on my 01 and kept the original Bilsteins on the back. I don't know if bilstein has a kit for the lowered L, but So-Cal has some shock extender brackets that work good with the Bilsteins. Did'nt have a problem with the fronts. I think the stock swaybars are pretty decent too, I don't know if I am a discriminating of enough driver to notice a difference in a sway bar change!
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For folks like Silver-Bolt and others, the bars are worth it. For the average guy, don't bother. If you used just springs with tuned shocks (good shocks) and left everything else exactly the same, you'd be happy.
Regarding the bar, the torsional rigidity of a larger hollow bar can be greater than a smaller solid one. It's easy to calc. The mechanical advantage is just a function of the moment arm from the point of load to a fixed point. All things being equal (which they are), the only change you can make is tortional rigidity (well, there is one change but more on will be posted at NLOC).
Regarding the effectiveness, I'll be adding comments that may help your decision to my post in NLOC. I've already got a couple. See this post.
Spike
Regarding the bar, the torsional rigidity of a larger hollow bar can be greater than a smaller solid one. It's easy to calc. The mechanical advantage is just a function of the moment arm from the point of load to a fixed point. All things being equal (which they are), the only change you can make is tortional rigidity (well, there is one change but more on will be posted at NLOC).
Regarding the effectiveness, I'll be adding comments that may help your decision to my post in NLOC. I've already got a couple. See this post.
Spike
I had the Hotchkis springs with my stock shocks, and the truck drove like crap. I just installed 4 of Ruslows QA1 shocks, what a differance. I still have to play around with different setting on the shocks. At 7 front 6 rear it handles awesome, no more bouncing around on bumpy corners.
I can't coment on the sway bars, if they were less money I would get a set, but I am now verry happy with my setup.
I can't coment on the sway bars, if they were less money I would get a set, but I am now verry happy with my setup.
Originally posted by Spike Engineering
[B]For folks like Silver-Bolt and others, the bars are worth it. For the average guy, don't bother. If you used just springs with tuned shocks (good shocks) and left everything else exactly the same, you'd be happy.
[B]For folks like Silver-Bolt and others, the bars are worth it. For the average guy, don't bother. If you used just springs with tuned shocks (good shocks) and left everything else exactly the same, you'd be happy.
Regarding the bar, the torsional rigidity of a larger hollow bar can be greater than a smaller solid one. It's easy to calc. The mechanical advantage is just a function of the moment arm from the point of load to a fixed point. All things being equal (which they are), the only change you can make is tortional rigidity.
I'm young, single and make too much money for my own good...thats my only excuse for buying these parts right now. :) Although I do hope to push them for their intended purposes in the not to distant future. lol...
Currently, my quest has been to get closer to the track time of this pimped-out Firebird that races at the Autocross meets I goto. With his aftermarket-posi and custom coilovers, he trounces me repeatedly, and I want to catch up. :D This past weekend, he ran a quickest of 23.8 w/1 cone, but had mostly 25s/26's, I ran a quickest of 26.868 w/3 cones (totally understeered a 90' turn comign out of a slalom), and a 27.018 (or was it 27.118? I forget) with no cones... I figure I'm not doing TOO bad for the fact he's got a better rear-diff, better suspension, and better power-weight ratio at the moment. lol... He's running uh 327rwhp or something... (he's not stock)
While he is impressed by my truck, its still "a truck", lol, and therefore won't beat his car. ;) Though they do love watching something so "huge" run around the autox...lol.
Daniel
Currently, my quest has been to get closer to the track time of this pimped-out Firebird that races at the Autocross meets I goto. With his aftermarket-posi and custom coilovers, he trounces me repeatedly, and I want to catch up. :D This past weekend, he ran a quickest of 23.8 w/1 cone, but had mostly 25s/26's, I ran a quickest of 26.868 w/3 cones (totally understeered a 90' turn comign out of a slalom), and a 27.018 (or was it 27.118? I forget) with no cones... I figure I'm not doing TOO bad for the fact he's got a better rear-diff, better suspension, and better power-weight ratio at the moment. lol... He's running uh 327rwhp or something... (he's not stock)
While he is impressed by my truck, its still "a truck", lol, and therefore won't beat his car. ;) Though they do love watching something so "huge" run around the autox...lol.
Daniel
I did mine all at once. Springs, shocks, sway bars and urethane bushings.
Most will be very happy with stock bars and high quality shocks. The QA1's would be a great addition. If you primarily drag race don't waste your money. If you like or plan to try auto cross or road racing start with springs and shocks and add more as your skills improve. I don't mean that as a slam to anyone's driving ability. If you do not use the trucks handling capability to the fullest now why make it even better. Learn to use what you have first, then you will know what areas to improve.
My future plans are to relocate the rear shocks. Factory mounting position is very inefficient. Adjustable front sway bar (possibly adjustable from the driver seat), and adjustable shocks. If I get real crazy (or rich) coil overs & 4-link.
Most will be very happy with stock bars and high quality shocks. The QA1's would be a great addition. If you primarily drag race don't waste your money. If you like or plan to try auto cross or road racing start with springs and shocks and add more as your skills improve. I don't mean that as a slam to anyone's driving ability. If you do not use the trucks handling capability to the fullest now why make it even better. Learn to use what you have first, then you will know what areas to improve.
My future plans are to relocate the rear shocks. Factory mounting position is very inefficient. Adjustable front sway bar (possibly adjustable from the driver seat), and adjustable shocks. If I get real crazy (or rich) coil overs & 4-link.
Originally posted by WrongdayJ
...But doesn't the Hotchkiss bar create torsional rigidity by altering the location of the pivot points (point of load) and using multiple bends in the bar to increase rigidity?
...But doesn't the Hotchkiss bar create torsional rigidity by altering the location of the pivot points (point of load) and using multiple bends in the bar to increase rigidity?
Please continue commenting and I welcome/urge more input over at the Road Racing forum at NLOC. In the past, the discussions over there got far more technical. Besides, we all learn stuff from each other.
The Hotchkis bars use the same bends. Here's a picture posted by Silver-Bolt:

All the stock mounting points are used and the bends are, for the most part, the same. Torsional rigidity is geometry, nothing more. How the load is transfered to the fixed point matters, but if the bends are similar, deflection and the resulting load transfer (or energy) to that point is proportional.
Spike
Originally posted by thepawn
I'm young, single and make too much money for my own good...thats my only excuse for buying these parts right now.
Although I do hope to push them for their intended purposes in the not to distant future. lol...
I'm young, single and make too much money for my own good...thats my only excuse for buying these parts right now.
Although I do hope to push them for their intended purposes in the not to distant future. lol...


