Who makes it? How much? At what ranges would I need to concider getting it?

 

Before you start with your clutch you need to oil your muffler bearings and see if that makes a difference. (make sure you use 90 weight the lighter stuff does no good.)

HTH,
Brett

 

True, but nobody told me I had to remove the passenger seat and stereo to pull the PCM (computer chip) out, so the clutch codes were cleared properly. If I had know that, I wouldn't have bothered with the clutch.

Spike

 

HEHEHEHE!!!

 

Couldn't possibly mean the friction plates in the trans could he?

 

Acutally I've noticed that 75w-80 works just as good Redline MTL-90 .


Spade$ - do you mean clutch packets?????

 

For those who don't know automatics, referring to the clutches may sound kind of dumb, but I refer to them as clutches all the time. A 4R100 has an O/D clutch, a coast clutch, an intermediate clutch, a direct clutch, a forward clutch and a low/reverse clutch. Any transmission repairman refers to them this way. Upgrading a clutch actually means a lot more than just upgrading the plates. You acn also increase clutch surface area (add plates) change return spring pressure and do a few other things to upgrade tehm (a guy has to have a few secrets).

Don't flame the guy, I understood exactly what he meant.

Contact Sal at PSP about clutch upgrades. He has them (not on his site, you need to e-mail him)

G

 

It wasn't flame, just some sense of humor. I think everyone knew what he was talking about, it was just a broad question that could have easily been mis-interpretted by anyone who has not read any of your posts in the past (b/c if I haven't read them I would never have known about different clutches in auto trannies).

 

Oh, sure. Someone had to come in and spoil all of our fun!

Just pokin' fun, not flaming.

Brett

 

I heard that if you let your blinker fluid get too low there can be some serious problems too. Yea I changed my muffler barrings 2 weeks ago and it got rid of that clunking noise. Then I drilled a few holes in the connector rods to save weight and that made a huge difference. Also removing the underdrive belt gave me huge HP gains. The thing just ripps out of the hole now. I'm thinking about removing the torque converter and bypassing it with a welded pipe. Then I heard that adding the exhaust tips that are larger than your head will add 2 or 3 HP on your top end because of the top-end-sucking effect. Or maybe ill just short cut it all and remove the throttle return springs. I hear that gives you uncontrolable power