Front Sway Bar End Links Installed
Okay, we have two threads asking for the same information. Hopefully this kind of demand will lead to a good answer because I'm doing my Hotckis springs next Monday and I would like to have everything ready to go.
The other thread is attm: wrongdayJ.
I'm going to look in my Summit catalog when I get home. Someone else said they called Prothane and Energy Suspension and they did not have the rear dog-bones and Hotckis will not seel them w/o the sway bars.
What I have read says the stock front is 4 5/8" from center to center.
The rear is 7 1/4" center to center.
The fronts are easy to find from prothane or ES. We seen to be stuck on the rears now.
The other thread is attm: wrongdayJ.
I'm going to look in my Summit catalog when I get home. Someone else said they called Prothane and Energy Suspension and they did not have the rear dog-bones and Hotckis will not seel them w/o the sway bars.
What I have read says the stock front is 4 5/8" from center to center.
The rear is 7 1/4" center to center.
The fronts are easy to find from prothane or ES. We seen to be stuck on the rears now.
I know I saw some 5 inch and longer end links at my pep boys in chicago. They had allot of them.
So if the rear is 7 1/4 center to center, what size would I need with a bell tech 3/4 drop kit: 4 1/4 or 3 1/4 inch?
So if the rear is 7 1/4 center to center, what size would I need with a bell tech 3/4 drop kit: 4 1/4 or 3 1/4 inch?
Originally posted by NeedFourSpeed
...The other thread is attm: wrongdayJ.
I'm going to look in my Summit catalog when I get home. Someone else said they called Prothane and Energy Suspension and they did not have the rear dog-bones and Hotckis will not seel them w/o the sway bars...
...The other thread is attm: wrongdayJ.
I'm going to look in my Summit catalog when I get home. Someone else said they called Prothane and Energy Suspension and they did not have the rear dog-bones and Hotckis will not seel them w/o the sway bars...
Regarding the reply from Hotchkis, I plan to discuss the whole suspension issue with John at Buttonwillow.
Spike
Energy Suspension front link info.
TO FIT/SELECT PROPER SET- Vehicle must be on level ground (not jacked up) with wheels supporting it. Make sure stabilizer bar end eyelet (B) is parallel with the control arm (C). Many times they are not. You may be required to use a slightly longer or shorter sleeve length than the original. Measure sleeve length (A) and compare to the chart to find the correct set.
"A" Length Set Number
1" 9-8122
1 5/8" 9-8120
2" 9-8123
2 3/8" 9-8125
2 5/8" 9-8117
2 7/8" 9-8118
3 3/8" 9-8119
3 9/16" 9-8124
4 1/4" 9-8149
4 1/2" 9-8121
TO FIT/SELECT PROPER SET- Vehicle must be on level ground (not jacked up) with wheels supporting it. Make sure stabilizer bar end eyelet (B) is parallel with the control arm (C). Many times they are not. You may be required to use a slightly longer or shorter sleeve length than the original. Measure sleeve length (A) and compare to the chart to find the correct set.
"A" Length Set Number
1" 9-8122
1 5/8" 9-8120
2" 9-8123
2 3/8" 9-8125
2 5/8" 9-8117
2 7/8" 9-8118
3 3/8" 9-8119
3 9/16" 9-8124
4 1/4" 9-8149
4 1/2" 9-8121
Just a quick question for all of the suspension gurus...if I've done the Eibach Pro-Kit front springs (adverstised drop of 1" but closer to an actual 2" drop) can I get away with the 2 5/8" end links? Too lazy to crawl under the truck and measure right now...
Thanks in advance,
Dan
Thanks in advance,
Dan
Hahaha. . . . That's a new one.
I don't fancy myself a GOOORU or anything, but if you want your suspension geometry to be correct, then you are going to have to drag your 'ol bones out under the truck with a tape measure.
Sorry man. . .
I don't fancy myself a GOOORU or anything, but if you want your suspension geometry to be correct, then you are going to have to drag your 'ol bones out under the truck with a tape measure.

Sorry man. . .
Here's my summary on the options:
First, since I bought the Hotchkis Spring from Hotckis, they are selling me their rear end-link. The will not sell it to you unless you prove you bought their springs. BTW nothing is cheap from them...not even their end-link.
Spike Engineering and Silver-Bolt directed me to So-Cal Speedshop. I did not contact them but Spike showed me a picture of their adjustable link that should work on different set-ups.
wrongdayj pointed out that you could cut, weld, and sleeve the stock unit.
I may work on developing the end link using chome-moly rod ends and some good strong threaded tubing. Can you say adjustable!
I went ahead and bought the Hotchkis since I need everything ready to go next Monday.
Thanks for everyones help and ideas.
First, since I bought the Hotchkis Spring from Hotckis, they are selling me their rear end-link. The will not sell it to you unless you prove you bought their springs. BTW nothing is cheap from them...not even their end-link.
Spike Engineering and Silver-Bolt directed me to So-Cal Speedshop. I did not contact them but Spike showed me a picture of their adjustable link that should work on different set-ups.
wrongdayj pointed out that you could cut, weld, and sleeve the stock unit.
I may work on developing the end link using chome-moly rod ends and some good strong threaded tubing. Can you say adjustable!
I went ahead and bought the Hotchkis since I need everything ready to go next Monday.
Thanks for everyones help and ideas.
Originally posted by Chikenears
Because the stock has a 4 5/8" mounting length. I wanted to shorten that by 2". Overall, the stock bar is 8".
Because the stock has a 4 5/8" mounting length. I wanted to shorten that by 2". Overall, the stock bar is 8".
Thanks.
Last edited by roger; Apr 3, 2002 at 04:50 PM.
Originally posted by Chikenears
Roger,
That's the only number on the package. it's at the top left corner of the barcode. I know you can't see it but trust me, it's there.
Roger,
That's the only number on the package. it's at the top left corner of the barcode. I know you can't see it but trust me, it's there.
'preciate the QUICK reply!




