Lowering Notes... For anyone, that has asked 4,000 times....
Lowering Notes... For anyone, that has asked 4,000 times....
Lets TTT this one everynow and again so people with the same questions can see it....
Ok, these are my thoughts on lowering... Anyone with opinions or suggestions, please add....
Best overall kit... Bell Tech 3/4 kit availible from the online F150 Store. Click the link for price info https://www.f150online.com/cgi-bin/f....html&CODE=152
This kit comes out to a 2/4 Drop on a Lightning. You can move the rear Shackel to the 2nd hole and make it a 2/3 kit and have a good level look. The stock stocks will work with the drop kit, but a set of Bell Tech Nitro ACTIVE (Not regular Nitro Shocks) or Edelbrock's Performer IAS shocks work well.
The Kits ride is decent but you can notice the rear hitting bump stops on ruff roads or with a load in your truck.
I would not reccomend anyone doing the install without a nice assortment of Air tools or some really nice electric tools. Everything is straight forward except the Front hangers on the rear. I would cut or chisel the rivet heads off, pull the hanger off, grinf them flush to the frame, and use a air hammer with a punch insert to knock them out....
These are my thoughts and for info to anyone looking to lower their truck....
There are many other options, but this is what I have....
Ok, these are my thoughts on lowering... Anyone with opinions or suggestions, please add....
Best overall kit... Bell Tech 3/4 kit availible from the online F150 Store. Click the link for price info https://www.f150online.com/cgi-bin/f....html&CODE=152
This kit comes out to a 2/4 Drop on a Lightning. You can move the rear Shackel to the 2nd hole and make it a 2/3 kit and have a good level look. The stock stocks will work with the drop kit, but a set of Bell Tech Nitro ACTIVE (Not regular Nitro Shocks) or Edelbrock's Performer IAS shocks work well.
The Kits ride is decent but you can notice the rear hitting bump stops on ruff roads or with a load in your truck.
I would not reccomend anyone doing the install without a nice assortment of Air tools or some really nice electric tools. Everything is straight forward except the Front hangers on the rear. I would cut or chisel the rivet heads off, pull the hanger off, grinf them flush to the frame, and use a air hammer with a punch insert to knock them out....
These are my thoughts and for info to anyone looking to lower their truck....
There are many other options, but this is what I have....
I think some other tips would be what size tools are needed so you don't have to run back and forth to the Crasftsman store.
I recommend
half inch drive deep well sockets and open end wrenches(someone used Metric but these worked fine) for the big bolts. spring and shackle bolts.
3/4
13/16
15/16
Also an assortment of 3/8 drive sockets.
Also should the shackle be in the top most bolt for the higher ride on the springs. I have mine at 2nd and it bottoms out. Ouch it hurts.
I recommend
half inch drive deep well sockets and open end wrenches(someone used Metric but these worked fine) for the big bolts. spring and shackle bolts.
3/4
13/16
15/16
Also an assortment of 3/8 drive sockets.
Also should the shackle be in the top most bolt for the higher ride on the springs. I have mine at 2nd and it bottoms out. Ouch it hurts.
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chickenears, where did you get that honeycomb billet grill?
What do you guys think about this:
Beltek 2" shackles
Fiberglass 2" leafsprings
total 3" drop for the rear
Eibach Progressive Rate springs
total 2" drop for the front
Does that sound like a good doable solution, eliminating the need to change the hangers?
Thanks!
What do you guys think about this:
Beltek 2" shackles
Fiberglass 2" leafsprings
total 3" drop for the rear
Eibach Progressive Rate springs
total 2" drop for the front
Does that sound like a good doable solution, eliminating the need to change the hangers?
Thanks!
Last edited by dtdionne; Mar 30, 2002 at 09:56 PM.
Originally posted by QKSILVR
I think some other tips would be what size tools are needed so you don't have to run back and forth to the Crasftsman store.
I recommend
half inch drive deep well sockets and open end wrenches(someone used Metric but these worked fine) for the big bolts. spring and shackle bolts.
3/4
13/16
15/16
Also an assortment of 3/8 drive sockets.
Also should the shackle be in the top most bolt for the higher ride on the springs. I have mine at 2nd and it bottoms out. Ouch it hurts.
I think some other tips would be what size tools are needed so you don't have to run back and forth to the Crasftsman store.
I recommend
half inch drive deep well sockets and open end wrenches(someone used Metric but these worked fine) for the big bolts. spring and shackle bolts.
3/4
13/16
15/16
Also an assortment of 3/8 drive sockets.
Also should the shackle be in the top most bolt for the higher ride on the springs. I have mine at 2nd and it bottoms out. Ouch it hurts.
I suppose that you finally finished your little project. How did it go? Email me
Originally posted by dtdionne
chickenlips, where did you get that honeycomb billet grill?
What do you guys think about this:
Beltek 2" shackles
Fiberglass 2" leafsprings
total 3" drop for the rear
Eibach Progressive Rate springs
total 2" drop for the front
Does that sound like a good doable solution, eliminating the need to change the hangers?
Thanks!
chickenlips, where did you get that honeycomb billet grill?
What do you guys think about this:
Beltek 2" shackles
Fiberglass 2" leafsprings
total 3" drop for the rear
Eibach Progressive Rate springs
total 2" drop for the front
Does that sound like a good doable solution, eliminating the need to change the hangers?
Thanks!
I think that the fiberglass springs are for off-road use and not intended for street use, correct me if I'm wrong but I think I read that somewhere.
I'm ALL FOR not changing the hangers also. It's a major pain in the ***. I have some Hotchkis 2" drop steel springs ordered
My grill is a Street Scene satin finish aluminum mesh grill sold by JC Whitney that I would not recommend for a 2001 or 2002. They are made for a 99 or 00 year model and don't fit correctly in the 01's or 02's. My truck is an 01 and, if you look really close, you'll see that it's squeezed into the opening. Wait on the newer model
Originally posted by LatemodelRacer2
does the truck have to be aligned after the drop kit instalation
does the truck have to be aligned after the drop kit instalation
Originally posted by dtdionne
OH CRAP!!! sorry chickenears!! LOL!! im a retard
In addition to my last post, would i need to do anything to my sway bars? or am i missing anything?
OH CRAP!!! sorry chickenears!! LOL!! im a retard
In addition to my last post, would i need to do anything to my sway bars? or am i missing anything?


