Attn. Factory tech, trans life?
So I've been reading a lot of posts lately regarding transmission problems, and the rebuilds being problematic as well.
I have decided to keep my Lightning, and get rid of the GT, and would eventually like to modify the truck to some extent.
What I am concerned about is the amount of trannies that seem to be going south with few mods to the truck.
I am not planning on a 10sec monster, maybe something similar to the following:
3# lower pulley
90mm conversion
Flip chip/filter
Valve body
Electric fan/pump
Traction control
Minor suspension
I would basically like to have a low 13 sec. or high 12 sec. daily driver.
But, I don't want to have to worry about the tranny going south, especially getting denied warranty!
What would you suggest to make sure it lasts?
I am thinking of either having the chip burned to leave the delay in shifting, or to build the tranny (monster box?)
Thanks for any input...
I have decided to keep my Lightning, and get rid of the GT, and would eventually like to modify the truck to some extent.
What I am concerned about is the amount of trannies that seem to be going south with few mods to the truck.
I am not planning on a 10sec monster, maybe something similar to the following:
3# lower pulley
90mm conversion
Flip chip/filter
Valve body
Electric fan/pump
Traction control
Minor suspension
I would basically like to have a low 13 sec. or high 12 sec. daily driver.
But, I don't want to have to worry about the tranny going south, especially getting denied warranty!
What would you suggest to make sure it lasts?
I am thinking of either having the chip burned to leave the delay in shifting, or to build the tranny (monster box?)
Thanks for any input...
BTW, Gregg, do you offer a "monster box" rebuild kit??? or do I have to buy the whole thing...
Chikin@charter.net
---------------------------
Black '01
Born on 5-3-01
#3603 of 6381
K&N Box Filter
Sean Hyland 2# Upper Pulley
JL 3# Lower
JDM Boost Bypass
PSP 4-Way Autologic Chip ( Tow, Street, N20 Street, N20 Track )
PSP Electric fan&CobraR water pump
PSP Longtubes w/Twin Magnaflow
PSP FactoryTech Valvebody
PSP Deep Tranny Pan
PSP DriveShaftLoop
PSP Nitrous Plate
Nitrous Express 50-150 EFI Kit
NGK / BR7 spark plugs .036gap
Mickey Thompson ET-STREETS

Chikin@charter.net
---------------------------
Black '01
Born on 5-3-01
#3603 of 6381
K&N Box Filter
Sean Hyland 2# Upper Pulley
JL 3# Lower
JDM Boost Bypass
PSP 4-Way Autologic Chip ( Tow, Street, N20 Street, N20 Track )
PSP Electric fan&CobraR water pump
PSP Longtubes w/Twin Magnaflow
PSP FactoryTech Valvebody
PSP Deep Tranny Pan
PSP DriveShaftLoop
PSP Nitrous Plate
Nitrous Express 50-150 EFI Kit
NGK / BR7 spark plugs .036gap
Mickey Thompson ET-STREETS
I picked up my new factory tech tranny on saturday. While I was there he tore it down and I saw first hand the damage a chip and pulley have on the 4r100. All of the clutch paks were toast for 1,2,3rd gear. the little spacers between the clutch paks were also burned. I don't think the truck could have made it through this year.
Take factory techs advice and get his valve body and have the firm shift removed from your chip. I think that raising the line pressure too much isn't such a good idea for lots of tranny life. You also may want to consider that when the chip overrides the cylinder shut down between 1-2 shifts you may cause considerable damage to your tranny.
That is just my $.02
Take factory techs advice and get his valve body and have the firm shift removed from your chip. I think that raising the line pressure too much isn't such a good idea for lots of tranny life. You also may want to consider that when the chip overrides the cylinder shut down between 1-2 shifts you may cause considerable damage to your tranny.
That is just my $.02
I just got my tranny back from Factory Tech. Here is what he did.
Replaced low/reverse plates, added 1 plate set to stack, made it a 6 element clutch
Replaced Low/Reverse pressure plate
Replaced Intermediate brake drum with 5 element direct clutch, full race plates
Upgraded forward clutch to 5 element clutch, full race plates, removed the wavy plate for firmer shifts and added durability
Upgraded intermediate clutch plates to full race plates, replaced all steels and pressure plate (burned)
Upgraded coast clutch to 6 element clutch, replaced coast clutch drum with ball bearing drum, removed thrust washer
Replaced all overdrive plates
Cleaned and inspected the pump.
Cleaned and inspected main control and solenoid valve bodies
Replaced accumulator with Factory tech accumulator shift kit
Replaced pan assy with deep plugged pan
Replaced internal filter
Supplied external filter kit
Cleaned and inspected case assy, no damage found
Replaced damaged Coolant Bypass Valve assy.
Replaced all bearing assemblies
Replaced all gaskets
Replaced intermediate sprag assy
I believe he had done everything that you can do to these trannys.
Replaced low/reverse plates, added 1 plate set to stack, made it a 6 element clutch
Replaced Low/Reverse pressure plate
Replaced Intermediate brake drum with 5 element direct clutch, full race plates
Upgraded forward clutch to 5 element clutch, full race plates, removed the wavy plate for firmer shifts and added durability
Upgraded intermediate clutch plates to full race plates, replaced all steels and pressure plate (burned)
Upgraded coast clutch to 6 element clutch, replaced coast clutch drum with ball bearing drum, removed thrust washer
Replaced all overdrive plates
Cleaned and inspected the pump.
Cleaned and inspected main control and solenoid valve bodies
Replaced accumulator with Factory tech accumulator shift kit
Replaced pan assy with deep plugged pan
Replaced internal filter
Supplied external filter kit
Cleaned and inspected case assy, no damage found
Replaced damaged Coolant Bypass Valve assy.
Replaced all bearing assemblies
Replaced all gaskets
Replaced intermediate sprag assy
I believe he had done everything that you can do to these trannys.
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It wasn't cheap, but I look at it like this, it is a heck of a lot cheaper then the Level 10 bulletproof tranny. Probably around $1,000 cheaper in fact. I feel that it is money well spent.
The only thing I am curious about is that I believe the Level 10 kit comes with a bigger pump and I didn't get a bigger one. Maybe there is really no need for one. I will find out here in another month if this thing can hold up to 550rwhp and 650rwtq through the year.
The only thing I am curious about is that I believe the Level 10 kit comes with a bigger pump and I didn't get a bigger one. Maybe there is really no need for one. I will find out here in another month if this thing can hold up to 550rwhp and 650rwtq through the year.
I don't know that the level 10 gets a bigger pump, I think they change the valve in the modulator. I could be wrong on that. I experimented with this on my own, from what I can see in the parts, it's a better part but not anything that would really improve performance. The part I used was sold by Transtar as a straight replacement part, they didn't claim any performance gains, the real difference in it was an o-ring, all in all I don't think it does much good. If people ask for them, I can use them, just never saw any benefit of it.
Everything else I do is directly related to making the box last longer and shift better, for the most part fluid volume isn't a problem, the things I do reduce heat, increase total clutch surface area, shorten shift duration and reduce friction/resistence. I will say that Level 10 has the absolute best intermediate plates made, better than the ones I use, but they only come as part of a $750 overhaul kit, and aside from those plates I can buy the rest of the kit (or something comparable) for about $200, so I think they're pretty pricey. The full race plates I use in the fwd, dir and int clutches are pretty stout plates. If I find better ones at what I think is a reasonable price, I'll use them
G
Everything else I do is directly related to making the box last longer and shift better, for the most part fluid volume isn't a problem, the things I do reduce heat, increase total clutch surface area, shorten shift duration and reduce friction/resistence. I will say that Level 10 has the absolute best intermediate plates made, better than the ones I use, but they only come as part of a $750 overhaul kit, and aside from those plates I can buy the rest of the kit (or something comparable) for about $200, so I think they're pretty pricey. The full race plates I use in the fwd, dir and int clutches are pretty stout plates. If I find better ones at what I think is a reasonable price, I'll use them
G
Thanks for the replies.
Easterisland-This is actually what I was thnking of doing exactly.
Just upgrade the chip but use the "stock" type shifting for everyday driving, and use the second sid e of the chip for track use maybe with a slightly firmer shift characteristic.
On top of this use the Valve body that F.T. builds, with a deep pan.
Not sure if this is all I need but I owuld think this would help longevity...?
JD-That sounds like a nice setup, it just scares me to think how much it was! I don't really plan on racing this truck too often, nor modding it to the moon, so I think your setup would be overkill for me, but possibly some of what you did to yours, may help people like me with milder applications?
Thanks for the input!
Easterisland-This is actually what I was thnking of doing exactly.
Just upgrade the chip but use the "stock" type shifting for everyday driving, and use the second sid e of the chip for track use maybe with a slightly firmer shift characteristic.
On top of this use the Valve body that F.T. builds, with a deep pan.
Not sure if this is all I need but I owuld think this would help longevity...?
JD-That sounds like a nice setup, it just scares me to think how much it was! I don't really plan on racing this truck too often, nor modding it to the moon, so I think your setup would be overkill for me, but possibly some of what you did to yours, may help people like me with milder applications?
Thanks for the input!
I have modded my '01 and have not done anything to the trans yet. I know this has been discussed a million times before, but i'm just wondering, with my mods (in my sig), do i need a Line Mod valve? If so, what is the difference between the $40 and $200 ones? Will this "save" the tranny from abuse to an extent? Do you need the deeper pan etc?


