Cool.

It's hard sometimes to know where people are coming from by just a few words jotted in a thread. I know I've been misinterpreted several times on here.

Later,

 

here is my 2 cents on the subject.

I have run both the CalTracs and the JDM/Rancho bars on my truck. I have never run the truck tracs so I can't comment on them.

While the Cal tracs do stop axle wrap, when you adjust them for racing they lift the rear end. This rear end lift can't help weight transfer, if anything it will put more weight on the front end.

The JDM bars also stop axle wrap. Because they are allmost 5 feet long and do not restrict the springs from compessing when you launch helps to transfer weight to the rear. Also since the front mounts are closer to the front wheels help to lift the front end.

Lightning Boy I have to disagree with you about the JDM bars, not being adjustable is not a down side. They don't need to be adjusted because they work on simple leverage. When all the torque is applied to the rear end all the torque is applied to the frame. This is what causes the weight transfer.(pure physics at work)

 

Don's,

I like the idea of the Caltrac device, to move the instant center forward as well as up. Kinda bridges the gap between a lift bar and a 4-link set-up. They look trick. I just can't see spending $500 on his bars when a full 4-link from Competition Engineering isn't much more than that.

I'm a little confused about your last reply.
I've never heard anything about a lift bar transfering weight/force to the front of the vehicle. Maybe I am misunderstanding what you said, or maybe I don't fully understand how traction devices work. I thought that the torque was applied in a reverse arc that extends over the rear axle from the front to the rear of the vehicle. There is as much force driving the tire into the ground as there is lifting the chassis. It seems like there would be a limit to how much force could be absorbed this way though. At some point it would seem like either the tire would exceed it's tractive limit, or the front end would begin to LIFT. Am I on the right track? Seems like the more I learn about this kind of stuff. . .the more I don't know. Get's me as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

 

WrondayJ,

Are you trying to flame me?!!!!

 

No.

Life's to short to be a flamer.

 

Just yanking your crank.... Your other post about being misinterpreted (sp?) seemed like it needed a retort.

 

J
You are on the right track, maybee I didn't explain it properly or you misread it.

The JDM traction bars transfer weight to the rear. When the rear springs compress and the torque the axle tries to force the traction bars foward. That force will try to lift the front end, thus making the rear hook even better.

Crank up a set of Cal tracks, and then try to push down on the rear of the truck. I bet it won't move, thats the problem with the Cal Tracs. They don't allow the rear suspension to sqwuat when you launch. The JDM bars don't hinder the movement of the leaf springs, so the rear can sqwat and take a bite with out twisting the rear axle.

Take a look at the pic in my signature which was taken when I had the Cal Tracs on. You will notice that the rear end is sitting up high. Now with the JDM bars when I launch the rear end sqwats down and the front end lifts up.

If you want send me a e-mail at dhco@rcn.com and I can send you a video of me at the track when I get home tonight, and you will see the differance.

 

Squatting waste time and effort, you want the rear axle to plant itself (push down) with all weight transfering going to the rear wheels not making the truck squat. In effect, standup and leave. Front end up, rear end up, all weight transfer to rear wheels pushing down with all the force the truck can torque up. You won't try them but once and you will be hooked.
My truck would effortlessly bark the tires going into 2nd gear, now without jumping on the throttle hard it ain't happening. Thinking about a kidney belt for everyday driving or some serious spacers for that old feeling again.
I have never tried the rancho bars but have seen a lot of Cal Trac Squatting, without axle roll up, and some fairly good 60 fts, but nothing to compare to the Lakewood or Jay's Truck Trac slapper style bars. If you can get your hands on a set, well worth the 45 min install and $90.00's just to try them, but beware, you will be hooked, literally.

 

ICULOKN: what rpm's do you launch at?

 

1000 is what my chip is set at in race and or nitrous mode, but anywhere between 1000 and 1500

 

All I know is with the Cal Tracs I got 1.9 to 2.0's 60' times
With the JDM bars I get 1.77 to 1.82 60' times all on stock tires.

It definatly hooks better now, and is more stable.

 

This is all good info.

I think it's sinking in.

I still think I'd like to try the slapper style, only because I have used them in the past and they work. The JDM device still has my interest, but the price. . .whether they work well or not, it's just too high. Plus, I don't just drag the L. I like the twisties now, too. 10 years ago. . .this thing would already have been tubbed, laddered, caged, the works. But I've had several seriously built drag cars and they aren't much fun to drive unless you are on a freeway on-ramp. Hehehe.

Don, thanks for the information regarding the CalTracks.

Thulsadoom- thanks for the laugh. . .I needed it.


Later,

 

I don't doubt you a bit, all I am saying is with the slapper style bars its butt slamming, straight standing, leave now, 1.71 60 fts on motor only. Gonna try the nitrous next month at our ICCB race. That also was on MT ET's not F1's. I never race on street tires, not even for fun. Your success with the stock tires is beyond me, I gave up on the F1's and went to the TA's but still not on the track.

 

I had the JDM bars installed though they were bolted directly to the frame so they wouldn't hang down so far. The main reason I got them was because my drive shaft was hitting the cross member from squatting. (My truck is lowered 3" in the rear and 2" in the front.) JDM recommended the bars to prevent this and also suggested notching the cross member, which I did. Haven't really tested anything yet, but it feels good.

 

There is your problem. We had a friend with a Dakota R/T do the same thing. He would crank down on them so hard, that did lift up the rear end. Once I showed him how he should pre-load the Cal-Tracs, he dropped his 60' by nearly three tenths.

To pre-load the Cal-Tracs you turn the center link untill the cross bar comes down and touches the spring. Then turn it another quarter to half turn, and your set.

We pulled several 1.81 60's with a C/F/P(2#) 3.73 gears, and the Cal-Tracs at a track not known to hooking very well (Lone Star Raceway Park). Our best 60' to date is a 1.69 with the same setup, but launching on nitrous at Texas Motor Speedway.