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Engine Longevity Issues with N2O?

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Old Mar 14, 2002 | 08:30 PM
  #1  
01whiteLight's Avatar
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Engine Longevity Issues with N2O?

I want to buy a nitrous oxide kit but need some questions answered first. (I only plan on running 50-75shot)

1. what are the reliability issuse with having nitrous on a daily driven truck?

2. What are the reliability issues between wet and dry shot?

3. With the mods I have, would running nitrous on my daily driver be bad?

4. Are there any safety items i should purchase when running a nitrous kit?

5. Is it best to run nitrous off of buttons? or have it kick in a a certain throttle point?

any info would be great, thanks
 
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Old Mar 14, 2002 | 09:03 PM
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Don's Bolt's Avatar
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I know I will prob get flamed for these comments

I am not a believer in nitrous in a supercharged application.

I know there are a lot of guys who are running it and so far are Ok.

I also know quite a few people who have gone.


With a 50-75 shot you should be OK, but make sure you are carefull.

Good luck with what ever you decide.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2002 | 09:19 PM
  #3  
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Re: Engine Longevity Issues with N2O?

Originally posted by 01whiteLight
I want to buy a nitrous oxide kit but need some questions answered first. (I only plan on running 50-75shot)

1. what are the reliability issuse with having nitrous on a daily driven truck?
2. What are the reliability issues between wet and dry shot?
3. With the mods I have, would running nitrous on my daily driver be bad?
4. Are there any safety items i should purchase when running a nitrous kit?
5. Is it best to run nitrous off of buttons? or have it kick in a a certain throttle point?

any info would be great, thanks
Ok, here goes...

1- Reliability is really based on application. The truck needs to be properly tuned and have the proper supporting hardware, you can't overexceed the cylinder pressure, and you need to make sure you use the nitrous properly (i.e., no 1 minutes blasts to 160mph).

2- Dry systems are bad news on these trucks. You want a wet system for sure. Wet systems also make more power than dry systems on these trucks, with the same hp rating.

3- Your main concern is cylinder pressure. Since you have a 4 lb pulley, I wouldn't go over a 75 shot. You also have to keep in mind that while that seems to be the safe combo, there is always a chance of kicking a rod if you happen to have a weaker than normal one. The more power you add, the more chance of breaking stuff.

4- There is more to a proper nitrous set up than the kit itself. You need a bottle heater, purge system, pressue gauge and fuel safety switch. You also should have a proper nitrous program.

5- You can activate it anyway you want, but the kit comes with a micro switch that activates at WOT of the linkage. The nitrous system comes with an "arming" switch, so when you want to use the nitrous, you arm it, then when you go WOT the micro switch activates it. You can run it off a button if you like also.

We have done more nitrous work with these trucks than just about anyone out there. We offer a package combo that comes with the NX wet adjustable EFI kit, larger 15 lb bottle, Bottle heater, purge system, blow down tube, nitrous pressue gauge, fuel safety switch, billet nozzle mounting plate (goes between the TB and upper intake) and a bottle of NX power booster fuel additve. This combo package along with one of our nitrous programs, is you best and safest list of parts to run nitrous on your truck. You can check out our website for more details.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 01:07 AM
  #4  
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From: California
Smile Just push the button

I run a dry system on my 01
NOS 05115 made for the 5.0 Mustang
the same kit So-Cal Speed Shop put on the trucks for the Mag.
shot 'Lightning vs The World'
I ran it out of the box 75 shot best time 12.69 1/4
100 shot 12.54 1/4
I ran it with the 150 shot ( ingaged after shifted into 2nd gear)
12.49 1/4 the 150 shot got scary so I have returned to the 75 shot and have made traction mods and have run a12.50 with that. The system works great , no problems , I don't run it on the street. PS when I have a dealer problem I simply remove it and get the work done and reinstall I do not have a chip.. Just a filter and traction mods. Great truck!!!!
Good Luck
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 01:15 AM
  #5  
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im not an expert by any means but. with a 150 shot i would think you would be running more than 12.50, even on a stock engine. and your running N20 without a chip??? if i were you i would convert it to a wet system and get a chip. i would expect at least 2-3 more thenths with a chip and a wet shot. maybe im wrong though
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 01:20 AM
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oh yeah
01whiteLight
i would suggest a nitrous controller if your intrested in et redutction(who isnt?). you can get a good one for around $300.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 01:22 AM
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Talking after 2nd gear only

I only ingaged 150 after shift into second not at 4500 rpm from the start like the 75 and 100. I got real high trap speed with the 150 ,,114.7mph.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 01:27 AM
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dam nevermind, maybe the 150 is doin something, hehehe
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 07:46 AM
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A local shop had developed a kit modified from a Mustang kit over a year ago. The owner of the shop has one on his '00 L, and goes through about 10 bottles a week (he also refills nitrous, so I suppose its cheap for him)

The motor is fine, even with this abuse. The tranny, however, is not. It died, as in every gear except 3rd went out. It took about a year of lots of nitrous use, but still it appears that the tranny is one of the first weak links in the chain.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 09:34 AM
  #10  
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I agree totally with what Sal said. But to the exception of a 50 shot being your max with a 4Lb pulley. Running a 50 shot should keep your motor together for a long time and keep you happy. But blowing clutch packs in the trans will be a worry after alot of abuse. I would recomind getting a shift kit if you dont already have one. When your 1-2 shift becomes mushy, baby it and take all of your stuff off to take it to the dealor.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 12:17 PM
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From: President HALO
Yeah what Sal said.
Wet Shot with 90 HP custom jets, and chip by PSP = 11.41 including 2 lb lower and 2 lb upper.
Ran 12.12 on motor only.

Go PSP!
 
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Old Mar 15, 2002 | 12:56 PM
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RPM is the key. If you make sure you don't rev the motor too high, your rods should be alright.

One thing to keep in mind: as you increase power your shift speeds will increase. This occurs because the motor is spinning up faster than it normally would and by the time the PCM reacts to the shift command, your motor's spinning faster than you want.

Two things can help. Ask your tuner to turn off all possible OBD diagnostic functions. This will free up some processor speed and allow the PCM to react quicker. Then pick a reasonable shift speed (say 5500) and tell your tuner you don't want to rev any higher. You can monitor this fairly accurately using the "test" mode on the speedo.
 
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