bosst byepass followup ?
bosst byepass followup ?
quote:
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Originally posted by LIGHTNINROD
Disconnecting it keeps the boost from being 'dumped' when doing a burnout at the track. It also allows for WOT shifts as you run down the track. If your boost get's dumped, it take a few seconds for it to build back up--and you sit there--powerless. Btw, mine has been disconnected for 18,000 miles with no problems .
Dan
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>Lrod does disconnecting it=boost bypass on a 2001 L set a code in the computer,being the ever so computer concious,critter that i have become thank you L ?,also if it is disconnected ,does the rev limmiter still not shut you down? or is that the boost bypass doing that?=still stock, and i guess i will stay that way untill one of the tuners answers the age old question ,of how to set the onboard computer back to stock code,after anykind of a mod ?
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Originally posted by LIGHTNINROD
Disconnecting it keeps the boost from being 'dumped' when doing a burnout at the track. It also allows for WOT shifts as you run down the track. If your boost get's dumped, it take a few seconds for it to build back up--and you sit there--powerless. Btw, mine has been disconnected for 18,000 miles with no problems .
Dan
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>Lrod does disconnecting it=boost bypass on a 2001 L set a code in the computer,being the ever so computer concious,critter that i have become thank you L ?,also if it is disconnected ,does the rev limmiter still not shut you down? or is that the boost bypass doing that?=still stock, and i guess i will stay that way untill one of the tuners answers the age old question ,of how to set the onboard computer back to stock code,after anykind of a mod ?
There is at least 3 things that the Computer does to bring on the Rev Limiter depending on the situation. Open the boost valve to bleed off pressure, introduce a miss by backing off timing and or killing some spark and kill fuel to some cylinders.
Disconecting the boost valve will solve one of these three but the computer will set what is known as a soft code. The computer remembers that the resistance of the coil in the boost valve is out of range or missing. (A soft code is also set for computer chips as a unrecognized code.) I have heard that disconecting the battery and turning on the lights (with the battery disconected) for about 10 min will reset the computer. The dead givaway is that your radio will no longer remember what radio station it was on. My code reader does not read all "soft codes" so I can not prove all of this without getting a Ford code reader. Sal would know for sure
Hope this helps
Andy
Disconecting the boost valve will solve one of these three but the computer will set what is known as a soft code. The computer remembers that the resistance of the coil in the boost valve is out of range or missing. (A soft code is also set for computer chips as a unrecognized code.) I have heard that disconecting the battery and turning on the lights (with the battery disconected) for about 10 min will reset the computer. The dead givaway is that your radio will no longer remember what radio station it was on. My code reader does not read all "soft codes" so I can not prove all of this without getting a Ford code reader. Sal would know for sure

Hope this helps
Andy
Before i took my truck to the dealer for some warrenty to work i made sure i dissconnected my battery for 24 hours at least. Well i can tell you that had to have cleared all codes because they had no idea what was wrong with my truck and had the Ford tech come and and try to find out what was wrong with it and he found no codes. Also after having the battery disconnected for 24 hours+ my radio still remebered the stations just was on a.m. when i turned it on.
Vin
Vin
thanx
thanx awhittle/BadAzz516 for the very informative input,so if i disconnect the bypass plug in ,.= b4 i go in for warranty work=i will need to disconnect the battery for 24 hours one or both posts?, and that will save me?= clear codes?would this same trick work lets say if one disconnected a superchip ,and unplugged the battery for 24 hrs,would that clear the chip tracs on your computer also/
i was confused with this earlier post that lightning00n93cobra had stated earlier , he is a ford tech, i think i am still confused?=
lightning00n93cobra
Senior Member
Registered: Jul 2000
Location: Broomall, PA
Posts: 106
I am a Ford tech and can tell you there is nothing worse then dealing with aftermarket warrentys companys. They are a complete pain in the a** The only extended service contract that is really worth anything is ESP threw Ford Motor Company. Every single time I have to deal with one of these outside warrenty companys all the time and let me tell you its tough. they send adjusters out not to survay damage but to look for any reason to deny the claim. Example customer came into our dealer 95 windstar blown transmission. Her mickey mouse warrenty company denied the claim because she had her trans fluiid changed at 63,000 miles insted of 60,000 .. She ate a 2500$ transmission for being a few thousand miles late. That is complete bullsh*t. Since that event we wont even deal with any of these companys . As far as clearing codes there have been many threads posted on how to delete codes etc. Try all you want usually we can still tell. I would reccomend getting a good relationship wth your dealer. Usually they are cool if you are.But thats just me i have seen some horror storys in here so beware. Feel your dealer out straight out ask them if they will deny claims if you get a chip. Its better to know now then to pay later. hope this helps .i know everyone is providing useful info,i just don't want to take the mod plunge without knowing fully what i am doing thanks alot for the ongoing saga of days of our L's,to chip or not to chip ,that is the ?
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02-26-2002 07:53 PM
i was confused with this earlier post that lightning00n93cobra had stated earlier , he is a ford tech, i think i am still confused?=
lightning00n93cobra
Senior Member
Registered: Jul 2000
Location: Broomall, PA
Posts: 106
I am a Ford tech and can tell you there is nothing worse then dealing with aftermarket warrentys companys. They are a complete pain in the a** The only extended service contract that is really worth anything is ESP threw Ford Motor Company. Every single time I have to deal with one of these outside warrenty companys all the time and let me tell you its tough. they send adjusters out not to survay damage but to look for any reason to deny the claim. Example customer came into our dealer 95 windstar blown transmission. Her mickey mouse warrenty company denied the claim because she had her trans fluiid changed at 63,000 miles insted of 60,000 .. She ate a 2500$ transmission for being a few thousand miles late. That is complete bullsh*t. Since that event we wont even deal with any of these companys . As far as clearing codes there have been many threads posted on how to delete codes etc. Try all you want usually we can still tell. I would reccomend getting a good relationship wth your dealer. Usually they are cool if you are.But thats just me i have seen some horror storys in here so beware. Feel your dealer out straight out ask them if they will deny claims if you get a chip. Its better to know now then to pay later. hope this helps .i know everyone is providing useful info,i just don't want to take the mod plunge without knowing fully what i am doing thanks alot for the ongoing saga of days of our L's,to chip or not to chip ,that is the ?
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02-26-2002 07:53 PM


