Which is the better way to prevent dumping. 1"Do the boost bypass or unplug the solinoid? Thanks

 

If you unplug the solinoid my advice is leave it unplugged. If you keep connecting and disconnecting it the computer gets confused and may give you a check engine light. Mine has been unplugged for 10 months now and I have had no problems. If you arn't running a chip I would just leave it plugged in until you get one.

 

Either way achieves the same results. You bypass the boost dump capabilities of the computer. One you have to remove the battery cable to clear a code(you have to if you have a chip anyway) and the other you don't. One is free, the other is $25.

 

Has anyone done the following mod if so could u give me more detailed intsructuions on how where and what all this is

Remove the pink line from the top of the boost control diaphram valve, (not the selenoid valve) and plug it with a 1/4" bolt cut to about 3/4 inch long but that still has about 1/4" of smooth shank so you don't get an air leak, or use a 1/4" hose mender and a 1/4" cap.

Next, get 3/16" Tee to put it into the boost hose that goes into the firewall and up to the boost gauge(there is a white 3/16" hose mender in this location stock). Get 9" of 3/16 fuel rubber fuel line to go from this Tee to the top of the boost control valve.

The result is the computer will no longer have the ability to dump boost at the shift (torque reduction) or as part of the over-rev protection. THe computer will never know and will not throw a soft or hard code. The boost bypass will still be active at idle thru near zero vacume, and closed shut in all boost conditions.

 

latemodel,

forthcoming with pics. Drop me an email and i'll forward along a copy.

Bob

 

LatemodelRacer2

What do you need to know?

Andy

 

awhittle
I need to know what and where the boost control diaphram valve is , The boost hose , and where to take the hose to on boost control valve . I sent u an email hope u got it

 

See www.ncs-stl.com/Images/BoostMod.jpg

Hope this helps

Andy