Traction Bars
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Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23
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From: California
Traction Bars
I Called Lakewood 3 weeks ago about traction bars for my L after seeing an ad in a truck mag. I was given the number to a local parts house ,I think it was Autozone so I called. They gave me a part # for a set of 28 inch bars that they said fit the 2001 L so I remembered I had a set of univ. bars in my shop so I measured them and sure enough they were one in the same.( I had got some about 2 years prior for my Ranger) so I said what the hell and bolted them on, in front of the rear dif on the leafs the pass side had to cut 4 inches and the rubber snuber reset took about 30 min. after driving the rear seems more stable so I took it out to the track and to my surprise 1 tenth 60ft better not bad for $39 investment 2 years ago.
This L racing is getting fun just like the old days in the Pro Gas wars.
Happy raceing
This L racing is getting fun just like the old days in the Pro Gas wars.
Happy raceing
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 767
Likes: 0
From: Central AZ
Hello,
I have been doing alot of reading on this exact topic lately.
Ideally (with a slapper style bar) you want the snubber to contact the spring at the point where the spring attaches to the frame. The reason is because if the snubber touches the spring itself it will distort it under a load and cause the very condition you are trying to eliminate. The bars you mentioned should be roughly 27"-30" long right? On our trucks you need that length to be in the neighborhood of about 36"-38" I believe. I'll have to double-check my measurements, but I am pretty sure that this is right. This is measuring from about 5" behind the axle to the front spring mounting eye. The Truck-Tracs bars are the correct length for our trucks, as are the Cal-tracks units. They are not exactly cheap though.
I am in the process of making a set of them out of some heavy wall square tubing stock, and when I get them done I'll post a picture on the board.
I just can't see spending $250 for these bars, because they are way too easy to make and the material cost -even with powder coating- doesn't add up to anywhere near $250.
Hope this helps,
I have been doing alot of reading on this exact topic lately.
Ideally (with a slapper style bar) you want the snubber to contact the spring at the point where the spring attaches to the frame. The reason is because if the snubber touches the spring itself it will distort it under a load and cause the very condition you are trying to eliminate. The bars you mentioned should be roughly 27"-30" long right? On our trucks you need that length to be in the neighborhood of about 36"-38" I believe. I'll have to double-check my measurements, but I am pretty sure that this is right. This is measuring from about 5" behind the axle to the front spring mounting eye. The Truck-Tracs bars are the correct length for our trucks, as are the Cal-tracks units. They are not exactly cheap though.
I am in the process of making a set of them out of some heavy wall square tubing stock, and when I get them done I'll post a picture on the board.
I just can't see spending $250 for these bars, because they are way too easy to make and the material cost -even with powder coating- doesn't add up to anywhere near $250.
Hope this helps,
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 726
Likes: 0
From: Mobile, Alabama
This link has been posted here before but I thought it might help,
http://members.primary.net/~elgrab306/slapperbar.htm
http://members.primary.net/~elgrab306/slapperbar.htm
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,467
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From: La Habra, CA
That's how the Truck-Traks got started. First, the Lakewood universal slapper bars will not fit. They are designed for a vehicle with the axle ABOVE the springs. Ours are below the spring.
Second, they were origionally designed for stock F-150 trucks. They are way to flimsy for our trucks that put out 375+ hp and 450+ lbs of torque, and run ET Streets or slicks. I have already been there and done that. Stripped the u-bolts right out of them. It's not good if you drop the front of the bar onto the pavement. It can tear up a lot of stuff.
I designed the Truck-Traks to be like the Lakewood bars, but in industrial strength. They are 2"x3" rectangular tubing 1/8" wall. 1/2" dia. U-bolts with coarse threads. The longer the bar, the more leverage you can get. The more leverage, the better the weight transfer to the rear tires. The better the weight transfer, the betterthe traction! The Truck-Traks are 32" long, and provide a lot of leverage and weight transfer.
They will take a lot of Hp, Torque and abuse. Just ask Sal. He's run he quickest with them. Myself, I've put about 30,000 miles of LA driving on mine. That's enough to abuse anybody, or anything.
Check out my website below.
Second, they were origionally designed for stock F-150 trucks. They are way to flimsy for our trucks that put out 375+ hp and 450+ lbs of torque, and run ET Streets or slicks. I have already been there and done that. Stripped the u-bolts right out of them. It's not good if you drop the front of the bar onto the pavement. It can tear up a lot of stuff.
I designed the Truck-Traks to be like the Lakewood bars, but in industrial strength. They are 2"x3" rectangular tubing 1/8" wall. 1/2" dia. U-bolts with coarse threads. The longer the bar, the more leverage you can get. The more leverage, the better the weight transfer to the rear tires. The better the weight transfer, the betterthe traction! The Truck-Traks are 32" long, and provide a lot of leverage and weight transfer.
They will take a lot of Hp, Torque and abuse. Just ask Sal. He's run he quickest with them. Myself, I've put about 30,000 miles of LA driving on mine. That's enough to abuse anybody, or anything.
Check out my website below.
Last edited by Jay Lincoln; Feb 26, 2002 at 08:02 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23
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From: California
Traction cont.
I mounted the bars in front of the axles not on each side like is normal. This was just for fun and a test and since I had the bars I said what the hell. The bars do not mount in front and back of the axle just in front, the ruber snuber is about 3/4 of an inch from the front leaf mount directly in the middle of it. The bars work to my surprise like I said good for a tenth and I allready had the bars in the garage.