ok I have managed to swap all 4 on the passenger side of my truck and have managed to get the front 2 on the drivers side done as well. However, how in the H#11 do I get the last two. Sorry guys, but man I spent the last hour trying every possible combination I could think of and no go on either one. Surely someone has some words of wisdom? Help me please......

Thanks again guys.

Mike B.

 

from Chuck's page

Sparkplug Replacement Tips and Tools

The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.

Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket. 1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit. A telescopic magnet would help in removing and replacing 7mm bolts.

You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job. Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.

The 3/8" ratchet, (2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.

On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.

The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar. This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble.

By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job. It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.

Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs. Start your 7mm bolts and plugs by hand before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to crossthread that aluminum.

I hope this helps. It's a lot more info than I had.

 

I have this printed out, but it is of no help on the last 2 plugs. I don't understand what he means by using the breaker bar. Any ideas?

 

like this, but a small 1/4" breaker bar, so you can lift it slightly, to clear obsticles, but keep pressure on socket

 

You(or, I didn't) don't need the 1/4" bar. Get a 1/4" drive, 7mm socket with universal joint(one piece) from Sears. This allows for plenty of clearance with just an extension and ratchet. I feel your pain--it took me an hour each on #4 and #8, nomber 4 being the worst.

Dan

 

OH....that breaker bar

brain fart guys....I am going to sears this am to get the 1/4 socket swivel assembly and the 1/4 breaker bar...just in case.

Thanks again,

Mike B.

 

get a 7mm socket with the built in swivel

that will let you get under the fuel pressure regulator, also get a good magnetic pickup tool.

 

I have the craftsman universal 7mm swivle socket but on my truck I did not need it on that bolt. I put a short 7mm on a 4" extention and could slip it on the bolt from behind the fuel regulator. My truck my just be a bit different from the factory its really tight but I got it.

 

Mike B.,

Either one will get you where you need to be.


socallightning,

You're right about them not all being the same. Some won't have such a tight fit.

 

finally done...I went to sears and got several 1/4" extensions (i only had one), a 7mm with builtin swivel and 1/4" swivel and a 1/4" breaker bar. In the end the best thing I found to use was the 1/4 7mm swivel socket. It was still a PITA, but was doable. I just finished getting everything back together and did a quick run in the truck. WOW! I have had a very slight miss at part throttle for about 2 months now and it is completely gone. Full throttle seems to happen sooner....I guess I should say that the throttle response is much better. Overal all changing the plugs sucked, but with everyone's help it was definetely doable. On a side note this is a candidate for the FAQ for sure, especially chucks notes on what tools you need. It should include the mention of the 1/4 swivel 7mm socket though as that thing is a life saver. Oh and lots of electrical tape for remote your spark plug socket

Just wanted to say thanks again guys.

Mike B.