Guys how do most of you have yours set up? I tried from 3/4 to 1 1/2 inch gap and I still cant get them to work right. I am getting wheel hop bad now...

 

I don' know--my M/Ts hook pretty good with no wheel hop that I'm aware of. My Truck-Traks are set at about 1" from the springs. How low is your L?

Dan

 

how do you like the truck tracks.And what size tire do you have on your 20's

 

It was so weird. The first pass on the new Hoosiers was great. 1.69 60 foot and no hop, when it hit 2nd it hopped some. I had them set about 3/4 of a inch gap then. I moved them to about 1 1/4 and they did ok for the 2nd pass. Then on the 3rd pass it started wheel hopping and wouldnt hook up. Same thing on the 4th. My L is lowered 2/3. I have never had wheel hop before, even without the Truck Tracs. Now I have the Truck Tracs & Hoosiers and get it bad??

 

I am using truck-traks set at aprox 2" gap. My setup is as follows:

1" front drop (bell tech springs)
Sway bar removed
2" rear spindles
26X11.5X16 ET Streets

At first I did not have the truck traks up as far as they could and did not notice much help with them (had them set in the middle hole and back on the spring as Sal showed me on his truck). I then talked with Jay Lincoln and he said to put the snubber in the front hole and slide the passenger side as far up as I could without hitting the exhaust. Once that distance was found, set the driver side the same distance forward. With it setup this way I have been consistant 1.663-1.667 60ft @ Cecil and 1.70 @ my local track (Atco). I just purchased the spacer kit ad will close the gap some as they seem to loose a little traction when shifting in to 2nd gear (I think the snubbers are loosing contact with the spring).

 

Is there any noise from the bars during normal driving?

TOMMYLIGHTNING:

how much improvement did you see from the converter?? I'm considering one.

 

No, nada, zip, none--ever--noise.

Dan

 

Thanks LightningRod. I have to asume they do the trick. I'm really not interested in spending 400-500 for bars if 300 will give me the same result. Someone tell me about torque converters already. Is it a good investment? Is it 800.00 well spent?

 

Tommy,

Its so weird you say you loose traction in 2nd. I did it at the track with only a 3/4 gap. I dont know what the deal is. I know my setup is close to working. I mean 1.69-1.71 60 foot's with stock stall convertor? Maybe it was my tires or maybe I have blown the shocks??

 

800 for a converter? The ones I've seen are $1000.00. and there worth it, from what I've heard. if you have slicks.

 

http://www.converter.cc/

Look at the Yank converter site. BTW, like your truck, guy.

 

Richard, sorry for the late post. I just got back into town from a few days of R&R.

I'm not too familliar with the tire that you are running. Are you running the Hoosier 28 x 16 Quick Time tires, or DOT legal tires?

I have a question about tire pressure. Did you set and check the pressure before each run. If so, what was it.

Do they suggest curing the tires prior to use? I know that with drag radials, you need to cure tham and let them set 24 hours before racing with them.

It sounds like there may be one or two problems occuring. The springs are oscillation, which means there could be something loose, or binding. Also, the shocks may not be strong enough to control the oscillations.

Also, it's possible that the rear end is bouncing off of the bumper that is mounted to the frame. This would cause the rear to bounce and load and unload the tires, making them hop.

You might discuss this with Sal as well. He has used the Truck-Traks with slicks, and high horsepower.

 

Jay,

I have the new Hoosier 28x10x16 slicks. I ran them at 17psi all day. I was told they did not need curing but it could be wrong. I have changed the factory bump stops to the ones that came with the Bell Tech kit. I dont know if they hit or not? I have the same shocks a few of the Nitrous trucks with my drop are using. I am not ruleing them out yet either....