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Plug - N - Chug

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Old Feb 4, 2002 | 06:42 PM
  #1  
00FireRide's Avatar
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From: G-ville (UF) - A Drinking Town with a Football Problem!
Plug - N - Chug

Ok, this is going to make me sound like a complete MORON, but.....here goes. I know that I need to get some new plugs. Possibly NGK TR5's......i also know that I want to actually INSTALL these new plugs, but from what i've heard changing the plugs is a real B!tch on the L. Can i get ford or a repair shop to do it for not TOO much? I don't want to screw anything up just changing the freaking plugs. (This goes for my future pulley too....) I don't know of any close L shops besides Gville Ford that I would trust...... HELP
 
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Old Feb 4, 2002 | 06:46 PM
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RTKILLA's Avatar
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From: Orland Park, IL just south of chicago
Its not that its hard, its just a little time consuming.

I wouldn't pay anybody to do it to my truck. I did my plugs this weekend and it took me from start to finish about 1 hour and I was putting along taking my time. Granted my trucks a little eaiser so change since I have all the EGR stuff removed, but you can do it.

Just make sure you have a 1/4 swivel, a 3/8 swivel, and an good assortment of extensions to go along.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2002 | 07:12 PM
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From: Warner Robins, Ga, CSA
C'mon now...............

Florida boys can do it!

Get a 7mm swivel socket (one piece) for the coil pack bolt on #7(Craftsman works), a small-thin telescoping magnet(for all the coil pack bolts-out and back in), a big tube(NAPA has them) tube of dielectric grease--put a 'glob' of it on the plug-end of the coil pack boot (to keep moisture out, for a good electrical contact between the plug and the spring inside of the boot, and to make it easier to remove the boot next time), and though it was probably 'overkill', I bot a snap-on special s/plug socket. It is 6-7" long so it sticks up above the 'hole' that the plugs are in. You will not need a 3/8" swivel if you use this socket and therefore, you won't be putting undue side-pressure on the plug's ceramic body plus, you won't be pulling the extension out leaving a shorter socket down in the 'hole'.

No torque wrench is needed(you couldn't get it in the proper place to make accurate use of it). Just run the plug in finger-tight-snug and then only 1/16th of a turn more.

I didn't remove anything but the PCV valve/hose--just push it of the way--it leaks oil. You can work around the fuel rails. I would try #1, #2, or #5 first as they are the easiest--just to see how it all works. #4 and #8 are the worst!

Good luck,

Dan
 
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Old Feb 4, 2002 | 08:14 PM
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Tim Cowley's Avatar
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From: East Texas
I don't really think I will let anyone change anything on my truck unless I can't, and then I must watch them. Yes its a b---h the first time . My hands are all scratched , and my hands are tough. Some good advice is blow the ports out while the plugs are still in. Lots of sand!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2002 | 08:33 PM
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From: Portland, Oregon. USA
If I remember right the Ford repair manual allows 3hrs shop time to do the plugs. So 3x whatever hourly rate your dealer charges. Best guess would be $150-$200 for labor.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2002 | 10:39 PM
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00FireRide's Avatar
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From: G-ville (UF) - A Drinking Town with a Football Problem!
Holy Chit! For that i could buy a new pulley!. Ok, guess I need to just get down there and just do it. I can't possibly screw much up (Oh dear god i cant believe i just said that)
 
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Old Feb 4, 2002 | 10:50 PM
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NozeBleedSpeed's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville,Florida
00FireRide I can give you a few pointers.E-mail me ;
nozebleedspeed@aol.com
 
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