have a set of NGK TR6's.

Whats the route for swapping the plugs, I see on drivers side it's pretty crowded. Any tips or tricks are appreciated
What gap are y'all using with these?
Use a little anti-seize as well?
Torque them in at 13 lb ft (also 156 lb in)

thanks

 

The coil packs are held on with a 7mm screw. Get a 1/4" rachet a 4", 6", & an 8" extension, a 7mm socket, a 1/4" swivel , & if possible get a 7mm swivel socket for the 3rd cylinder back on the driver's side, it's tight in there. Then for the plugs get a 5/8"park plug socket, several 3/8" extensions; a 3", 4", 6", & whatever other extensions you have, & a 3/8 rachet. Also pickup an extendable magnet, I promise you'll need it. Take your time, it looks intimidating, but really is a fairly easy job. Start on the passenger side, they are much more accessible. Remove the 7mm screw holding the coil pack on, gently wiggle the coil pack around & pull it & the boot off the plug. The plug is recessed 4-5 inches down in the hole. ease the 5/8 socket onto thr plug, take the plug out & reverse the process. Do not use any anti-sieze. I changed mine yesterday for the second time, it took an hour & 15 minutes. 25 minutes on the passenger side & 50 minutes on the drivers side. Good luck. I installed Denso's so can't help you on the gap.

 

TXSVTL it all depends on your mod's as to your gap setting. What are you running?

 

http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightningpage/


them danged ole spark plugs man

 

I put in BR7EFs a few weeks ago. It seems the gap is dependent on the boost you have. From stock to a 3lb pulley, use the stock gap--.042-.044--I think? I have a 5 lber so I gapped mine to .040 to keep the plug firing at high boost levels(per Sal).

I used a copper-based anti-sieze although Sal said "no"(sometimes I 'listen', sometimes I don't ) Also, get a big tube(NAPA has some) of dielectric grease. When you go to put the coil/boot back on, squeeze a dolup of grease into the end of the boot and when you slide the boot onto the plug, it will keep it dry, make good contact(with the spring inside the boot), and will make it easier to pull the boot off next time.

You don't need to pull the fuel lines loose. The 7mm swivel socket(1/4" drive) mentioned in the other post is a 'must have'.

The coil wire connection has a 'release' tab right at the end of the connector--where the wires enter the connector--on the bottom of the connector. It(the tab) has a raised portion(but it points 'down' because it's on the underside of the connector) to allow you to squeeze it 'up' and then pull the connector off the coil pack. You will need to pull the f/inj. connector off most of the f/injs. to allow for room to get to the 7mm coil pack bolt.

Don't try to torque them tight--run them down finger-tight-snug---then 1/16th of a turn more.

Hope this helps but now that I think about it--you probably want to forget everything I posted--it took me 4.5 hours to make this first-time change !

Dan

 

Gap at .040" and you'll be fine. I listed anti-seize in the tips but if you're afraid of the plugs backing out then don't use it. I would recommend changing the plugs every 10,000 miles if you are running mods. I would check a plug after running them a day just to make sure they are burning right for your application. I think that's the biggest mistake most people make is putting in plugs and never looking back. I wouldn't worry too much about torqueing them. Just get them good and tight. Stay away from using swivels on the plugs if you can. They can put things at funny angles breaking off the top of the plug if you're not careful. It also makes it hard to get a good feeling of how tight the plug really is going back in. Here is a link to my sparkplug tips page.
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightnin...parkplugs.html

 

You said it Travis. Boomhauer is the MAN, LOL.

 

Tip: Don't unplug any hoses that you don't have to...

Read http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread...threadid=10175 about the third post down...



PS: I'm getting over it, and will probably retry again in a days/weeks or so...

 

The only hose that I unplugged was the large one with a rubber boot on the passenger side over the 3rd plug back, it simply pulls off, no clamp on it. You'll need to pull it off & back move it away from the engine to get into the rear 2 plugs. Nothing else must be moved or unscrewed except the coil packs & plugs.