What kind of internal mods would be necessary to get one of our motors to function reliably and yet still make enough power to get into the 11s? I am guessing Manley rods and some forged pistons, but what else? Will the stock crank handle 550 bhp? What about valves, valve springs, etc? And would porting and polishing help much? How about a recommended parts list, somebody?

 

What about keeping the spark plugs in? The pistons rods and pins sound to be a big issue.

Andy

 

The truck (2000+) already have forged pistons. But you would need to change the crank shaft, new higher temp valves, add block skirts ( i know that's the wrong word for it, it protects the piston from the block walls. anyways new ones of those) new sparks, stronger ignition, you'd need a better water pump to keep her cool, i think the radiator is sufficent. It keeps thses babies cool here in AZ even in the 120+ temps. Piston rings, The new rods, Porting and polishing wont do alot. SVT did a good job with fitting the the valves. If you got new cams that provided more lift then new springs would be in order too. I hope that gives you a small idea

Mark

 

i've been spraying on regular pistons, in my 99?????

 

Spade$, why do you say the crank needs to be replaced? Everyone I talk to says the stock crank is good to 700hp.

You may also want head and main studs.

 

All shall be revieled in due time - Some philosipher dude.

 

I know a buncha guys are running JE pistons.

I think Nathan has been running different valves now for a while...titanium or someting... I vaguely remember reading something about him having valve problems after they stretched from prolonged heat during high speed runs at Buttonwillow...but my memory could be failing me.

Daniel

 

Alphadoggy....If you make a Motor,Trans,drive line, diff, Etc. Bullet prof to turm 11's,,I'm sure you'll want to make more HP and turn 10's or 9's Like Jason Brown..There no stopping the Quest...Good Luck in your endevor...
Ted O.

 

I priced this out today.Installation of pistons,rods and balancing by a local engine builder who has done 4.6 modulars that run 9's n/a and one of them was on a recent cover of 5.0 magazine. He said around 2k to install and balance. Then i went down the road and got a 1400.00 quote to remove and reinstall the motor which i would say is on the high side.And then you have the cost of parts which would run from 1100.00 to ? So anyone contemplating doing this plan on spending 4-5k assuming your not doing any of the work.

 

A few more thoughts since my original post. I figured that much of the power gain would come from a larger pulley, say 5#, but I have been reading posts about how people are getting preignition (the great engine destroyer) on the 91 octane gas here in CA with only 2# pulleys. So it would seem that maybe lower compression pistons would be in order? And what in the heck can be done about blowing your plugs out of the heads? I want the truck to be drivable on the street, and I am not interested in being the next Jason Brown, just in being able to handle any Vipers or Z06s that might want to try me. I do not want to cage the truck (I know, 11s require a cage, but I know the rule is not very strictly enforced). $4 - 5K sounds pretty reasonable, considering that I have more than that in the tranny now.

 

I talked to Manley and they are comming out with some 800 hp pistons for our L pretty soon. They will also produce a crank in the next few months. I have been talking to them about a group buy on this. Their parts are very reasonable and good qualit from what I have seen. I will keep you posted as to how that goes.

As for installation, I am just going to buy another used motor, maby with a piston slap or something that won't matter, and do the work my self. Probably will cost the same to do it that way as to pay someone else to do it to your current motor. At least this way, you will be up a motor and have a much better knowledge of how the L enging works.

 

Pretty soon is not soon enough for some of us. Iv'e got what it takes to run 11's without juice, laying all over the garage lol. The manley rods are a given but i am still waiting for package pricing and piston options from more than one source. It really bites to be in the middle of modding season with little or no ammo lol. I have been told that the stock crank is good for more hp than i will ever be running to reach mid 11's at ihra sanctioned tracks without a cage. So a good package should include pistons,rods and arp studs when using the stock heads. This engine builder i talked to was telling me about new head and intake testing that he was starting soon with 4/5 different intakes and heads for 5.4 modular motors so i would not expect any new heads anytime soon unless there custom made or one offs.

 

Just food for thought since I see some people are saying use head studs. If you use head studs you will not be able to pull the heads with the engine in the truck. If pulling the engine to work on the top end is not a problem then you can disreguard this post. If it is a problem then good quality ARP bolts should provide all the clamping force you need for the heads. Now back to your reguarly scheduled post.

John..

 

The reason I said head studs was because when sal put his engine together he didn't use head studs and the head lifted up a little...I think. I may be wrong this is what I read.


This post explains what happened. It looks like 38 top gun uses them also.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=59787

Pulling the engine isn't too hard.

 

I got the manley rods off their website for $400 onsale while supplies last. Make sure you get the correct size hole for the wrist pin.

I have also seen numerous posts about the steel crank being fine as well as the block. Custom JE pistons will run around $900. I am probably going with the Manley pistons from JDM.

As far as a skirt; I'm not convinced it is necessary ; nice but not sure you need it to put out 500rwhp or so.

Headwork and valvetrain info tend to be the racer's secret or edge if you will.