Dyno Do's and Don'ts
Dyno Do's and Don'ts
Going to do this tomorrow for the first time. I have read numerous posts on Dyno runs. Any tips would be appreciat4ed. I plan to have the A/F ratio included. Think the dude said they have one they insert in the exhaust. Would this be close to the bung sensor reading or would the muffler make a difference?
usahooters recommmended them so I think they know what's what.
Thanks, Jeff
usahooters recommmended them so I think they know what's what.
Thanks, Jeff
If you're running NOS, don't redline it (hit the limiter) with the NOS still active, eh. Happened to 2 guys in my Cougar car club a while back. They were NOT too impressed with the guys running the dyno after that.
Scrapped two Cougar there.
Scrapped two Cougar there.
Jeff....
1. Make sure they DON'T do the pull in 2nd.
2. To make a proper pull in 3rd, they will have to bring the truck to 70mph (about 3000rpm) and then go WOT from there. Otherwise the truck will downshift and the pull will be useless.
3. Make sure you clear the adaptive fuel tables by disconnecting the battery when you get there. This zeros the the fuel tables and gives you a true A/F.
4. Make sure your rear tires are at even and proper pressure. Not being right will affect the numbers.
5. If they use the tailpipe A/F reader, that's ok. I've found when they work right, they are only about .1-.2 leaner than a reading with the bung sensor.
That's pretty much it. Try to get graphs with hp, tq and A/F on them, and get the graphs with rpm, not mph. Those will be most helpfull. I included the "procedure" stuff above because you'd be surprised how many dyno shops have no clue how to dyno a Lightning. Have fun!!
1. Make sure they DON'T do the pull in 2nd.
2. To make a proper pull in 3rd, they will have to bring the truck to 70mph (about 3000rpm) and then go WOT from there. Otherwise the truck will downshift and the pull will be useless.
3. Make sure you clear the adaptive fuel tables by disconnecting the battery when you get there. This zeros the the fuel tables and gives you a true A/F.
4. Make sure your rear tires are at even and proper pressure. Not being right will affect the numbers.
5. If they use the tailpipe A/F reader, that's ok. I've found when they work right, they are only about .1-.2 leaner than a reading with the bung sensor.
That's pretty much it. Try to get graphs with hp, tq and A/F on them, and get the graphs with rpm, not mph. Those will be most helpfull. I included the "procedure" stuff above because you'd be surprised how many dyno shops have no clue how to dyno a Lightning. Have fun!!


