Safe or acceptable to keep Bilsteins when lowering?
Safe or acceptable to keep Bilsteins when lowering?
Are you guys keeping the stock Bilsteins when you lower your Lightnings? The reason I ask is because I am considering a 2" drop and leaving the stock Bilsteins in my 2001 L (less than 5000 miles so shocks should still be fresh). That would obviously reduce the shock travel by 2 inches (a little less in the rear since they sit at an angle). From my experience with other cars, it's usually a bad idea to keep the same shocks when lowering because the ride will become "floaty" and bouncy instead of tight. Here's another reason I'm concerned:
For BMW applications, I know Bilstein makes two different shocks with the exact same valving and dampening. One is called "HD" (Heavy Duty?) and the other is called "Sport." They are identical except the Sport model is designed for lowered applications where reduced suspension travel is expected. This keeps the shock/strut in its proper operating range of motion, and prevents unusual wear or premature failure. Both styles cost the same, so there is no incentive for Bilstein to squeeze more profit with the "sport" name. They are obviously marketing the two products for valid differences in intended usage.
So do you guys feel safe running the stock shocks on a mild 2" drop? How does the truck drive and feel with this setup?
I'm assuming the folks who did the 3/4 drops definitely needed new shocks, right? If some of you did replace your shocks with different units, what models/brands are suggested. (I'm interested in daily-driver perspectives only, not special shocks for drag strip launching, etc.)
For BMW applications, I know Bilstein makes two different shocks with the exact same valving and dampening. One is called "HD" (Heavy Duty?) and the other is called "Sport." They are identical except the Sport model is designed for lowered applications where reduced suspension travel is expected. This keeps the shock/strut in its proper operating range of motion, and prevents unusual wear or premature failure. Both styles cost the same, so there is no incentive for Bilstein to squeeze more profit with the "sport" name. They are obviously marketing the two products for valid differences in intended usage.
So do you guys feel safe running the stock shocks on a mild 2" drop? How does the truck drive and feel with this setup?
I'm assuming the folks who did the 3/4 drops definitely needed new shocks, right? If some of you did replace your shocks with different units, what models/brands are suggested. (I'm interested in daily-driver perspectives only, not special shocks for drag strip launching, etc.)
Ben, Hope all is well. I am considering buying the Bilsteins for my truck. I lowered it 1" in the front and 2" in the rear and the ride with the stock shocks is too bouncing and floaty. I really think the type/quality of ride you want is strictly based on your preference. Some people have lowered their trucks using the Ground Force 1/2 package, retained stocks shocks and are completey satisfied. Others want something more than just a drop like improved performance for their type of driving. We shall see. Good luck.
R/S Dennis
PS Hope this made sense.
R/S Dennis
PS Hope this made sense.
Hi Shorty! We need to get together again soon! Anyways, you brought up a good point. I am intending to MAINTAIN or improve the handling of my L, not just drop it for looks at the sacrifice of comfort, tire wear, or handling performnance. I don't want my L to ride like a Cadillac or a Bronco, if you know what I mean.... 
So with that in mind, anyone else care to comment too?

So with that in mind, anyone else care to comment too?
BMWBig6 - I would say acceptable. But it depends on the application.
If you lower your truck 1/2" the blistiens will work okay. But say if you lowered your truck with the 1/2" from Hotchkis which changes all the spring rates to stiffer ones, then the blistiens are only acceptable as they not valved or tuned to the new springs. If you lower your truck 1/2" with say belltech springs and shackles, and since the belltech front coils are closer to stock spring rates then the blistiens would be better in that application then with the Hotchkis springs.
If you lower more then 1/2" you need new shocks.
If you lower your truck 1/2" the blistiens will work okay. But say if you lowered your truck with the 1/2" from Hotchkis which changes all the spring rates to stiffer ones, then the blistiens are only acceptable as they not valved or tuned to the new springs. If you lower your truck 1/2" with say belltech springs and shackles, and since the belltech front coils are closer to stock spring rates then the blistiens would be better in that application then with the Hotchkis springs.
If you lower more then 1/2" you need new shocks.
i went with the GroundForce kit and retained the stock shocks. I find the ride slightly firmer, but not bouncy or floaty as you described. I'm happy with the way it is, but like Shorty said, it all comes down to personal preference.
So is the key factor here the spring rates? The kit I am considering is the Ford Motorsports kit for the Lightning and Harley Davidson. It includes different springs for the front, and drop shackles for the rear with new bushings. It drops both the front and rear 2". I guess I need to verify if the springs are "stiffer" and not just shorter. I imagine the reduced shock travel will still be a problem but if some of you say it's fine then maybe I'll try it and decide if I like it.
a 1" or 2" drop will affect how the shock is and the amount of travel it has, but most people are fine with it or don't notice much difference. Those for complete handling will notice it.
The stiffer springs react different from stock springs. Just like some shocks you can compress with you bare hands and others you can't. If your a handling enthusiast then you want shocks and springs that are tuned, valved, made to take advantage of eachother.
Have you ever played with RC cars? If you have then you've seen at races how some guys go around the track, bring there car back in a change springs, then you see the car on the track again and it's all over the place? Then they bring it in again and change the oil weight in the shock, put the car back on the track and handles like it's on rails. It's kinda the same with real cars, the only difference is real test and tune can be more pricey.
The stiffer springs react different from stock springs. Just like some shocks you can compress with you bare hands and others you can't. If your a handling enthusiast then you want shocks and springs that are tuned, valved, made to take advantage of eachother.
Have you ever played with RC cars? If you have then you've seen at races how some guys go around the track, bring there car back in a change springs, then you see the car on the track again and it's all over the place? Then they bring it in again and change the oil weight in the shock, put the car back on the track and handles like it's on rails. It's kinda the same with real cars, the only difference is real test and tune can be more pricey.
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Just FYI to everyone watching this thread,
I called SVT and they told me that they don't think I'll encounter any "trouble" with a 2" drop and Bilsteins. They agree that the shock will then be operating outside of it's optimal range of motion, but I will most likely just experience a rougher ride since it won't be able to eat up the little bumps as well and be hitting harder into the "big bump" zone of the shock. They didn't think I would experience any premature wear or failure either, since the shock really isn't being loaded any more than usual. He suggested I call Ford Motorsport to see their recommendations and I will do that and post my findings here soon.
BTW, those SVT guys are GREAT! I didn't get a receptionist or knucklehead - a live technical person picked up the phone and I picked his brain for a long time on a number of things. Very friendly and courteous. Be thankful Ford didn't lay off those guys too!
I called SVT and they told me that they don't think I'll encounter any "trouble" with a 2" drop and Bilsteins. They agree that the shock will then be operating outside of it's optimal range of motion, but I will most likely just experience a rougher ride since it won't be able to eat up the little bumps as well and be hitting harder into the "big bump" zone of the shock. They didn't think I would experience any premature wear or failure either, since the shock really isn't being loaded any more than usual. He suggested I call Ford Motorsport to see their recommendations and I will do that and post my findings here soon.
BTW, those SVT guys are GREAT! I didn't get a receptionist or knucklehead - a live technical person picked up the phone and I picked his brain for a long time on a number of things. Very friendly and courteous. Be thankful Ford didn't lay off those guys too!
I'm running the Belltech 2" drop springs and 2" drop shackles on the stock Bilsteins.Firmer ride and less rebound.My camber is at 0 and I need to add some camber.Overall,I like it.Truck has a more performance feel and sure looks better.The best $200 mod you can buy.
NozeBleedSpeed, how does it feel at 100 MPH? If you hit a bump does it throw you off the road or is control improved? I drove my friend's 2001 with 2" kit on Bilsteins and it felt a little nervous at high speeds. It was definitely more secure and stable on flat roads and on-ramps, but as soon as it hit a bump it seemed to step out or skip a little (maybe the rear end actually hopped).
Originally posted by BMWBig6
NozeBleedSpeed, how does it feel at 100 MPH? If you hit a bump does it throw you off the road or is control improved? I drove my friend's 2001 with 2" kit on Bilsteins and it felt a little nervous at high speeds. It was definitely more secure and stable on flat roads and on-ramps, but as soon as it hit a bump it seemed to step out or skip a little (maybe the rear end actually hopped).
NozeBleedSpeed, how does it feel at 100 MPH? If you hit a bump does it throw you off the road or is control improved? I drove my friend's 2001 with 2" kit on Bilsteins and it felt a little nervous at high speeds. It was definitely more secure and stable on flat roads and on-ramps, but as soon as it hit a bump it seemed to step out or skip a little (maybe the rear end actually hopped).
At 100+ it feels great.I try not to hammer any big bumps or dips,but I didn't before lowering either.The wheels are slightly more prone to lose contact with the pavement over hops in the road.Not much of a problem unless youre driving fast into turns and encounter the normal crappy pavement that you will.You feel the wheels leave contact and you will move outside of your line through the turn.Be sure you are on the inside line of the turn or you could have problems.The steering dynamics changed some but I got the feel pretty quick.
I recommend you do what I did, one thing at a time. I installed the drop kit and now am looking at bushings, cam bolt kits, shocks, etc. It's been educational, fun, and expensive.
I also highly recommend installing cam bolt kits when installing the coil springs and then getting your truck checked for alignment.
I also highly recommend installing cam bolt kits when installing the coil springs and then getting your truck checked for alignment.
Sounds about like I expected. You all seem to think the benefits outweigh the drawbacks so I'll probably take the plunge. If I do it, I am definitely installing the cam bolts and getting it aligned.
If and when I do this, I'll post my first impressions etc. Thanks again everyone.
Shorty, are you going go-karting with NVLOPE?
If and when I do this, I'll post my first impressions etc. Thanks again everyone.
Shorty, are you going go-karting with NVLOPE?


