How long with pro m MAF?
How long with pro m MAF?
if i install a pro- m without a chip how long would i be able to drive the truck without causing damage??? any tips? or should i just keep it in the box until i have enough money for a chip?
I gotta assume you have a 99 or a 00--changing to a 90mm MAF will cause your L to run lean and yes, that could do some serious damage to your eng. I surely wouldn't do it--I know it's difficult to wait but it's not gonna run 'good' without the chip(with a bigger MAF) anyway.
Dan
Dan
I have about 45K on my truck now and if I remember right my truck had about 5K on it when the PROM-90MM MAF went on. I had chip burned on dyno using a wideband at the same time and have had no ill effects. The Prom does lean your truck out (I think mine was about .7), but if you have access to a wideband o2 meter and a good tuner you can allow for it. With my prom I was able to pick up another 28rwhp peak power. When it was all said and done my truck made 378rwhp and 442rwtq with the chip, prom, and bassani exhaust (junk). I have been very please with my mods overall, except for the exhaust. I had both cats come apart and clog the mufflers with the broken up catalyst. 2 new hiflow cats and a pair of flowmaster later all is well.
I ran the 80m ProM on my truck without a chip with no detonation problems. If you get a chip though, let the tuner know you have a ProM and provide them the flow numbers if possible.
Daniel
Daniel
yes my truck is a 00 i am currently purchasing one...I am gonna go with a swanson chip once i get some money thanks guys
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I ran the very first Pro-M for a Lightning back in July of 1999 (I provided all of my data back to the Pro-M guys too). In August of 2001 I changed over to my PowerPipe and again had my friends at Pro-M calibrate the electronics to my 92 mm pipe. For two years my Pro-M meter performed flawlessly and I can say the same for the electronics that they did for my PowerPipe too.
PS. 99% of the time I run without a chip. In fact I run a very unique set of long tube headers with a true 3 inch merger collector and an x-pipe. No cats and twin Borla mufflers and the Pro-M. I have never popped a code.
PS. 99% of the time I run without a chip. In fact I run a very unique set of long tube headers with a true 3 inch merger collector and an x-pipe. No cats and twin Borla mufflers and the Pro-M. I have never popped a code.
Last edited by BABolt; Jan 8, 2002 at 09:58 PM.
BABOLT
How in the world did you come up with a 3" merge collector?
I want those too. I thought a spike in an oringinal collector would be cheaper and do practically the same purpose.
Why are your headers different otherwise. Are your primaries bigger. 1 7/8"? 2"?
I want those too. I thought a spike in an oringinal collector would be cheaper and do practically the same purpose.
Why are your headers different otherwise. Are your primaries bigger. 1 7/8"? 2"?
Hi,
I built my headers in May of 2000. Did some computer modeling with Burns Stainless in California to pick the correct length and pipe diameter and decided on using a merge collector for better extraction. They are 1.75 dia. and each tube is separate with 4 & 5 sharing a common flange. I had an 18 horsepower increase with this as my only mod. I posted this information over a year and a half ago and at that time almost everyone wanted to Poo Poo long tube headers.Yes I know that they work. With these long tubes, x-pipe, no cats, a billet throttle body, power pipe (5 inch filter) and a two generation old JDM chip that was not calibrated for the power pipe I have made over 400 RWHP on the dyno.
I built my headers in May of 2000. Did some computer modeling with Burns Stainless in California to pick the correct length and pipe diameter and decided on using a merge collector for better extraction. They are 1.75 dia. and each tube is separate with 4 & 5 sharing a common flange. I had an 18 horsepower increase with this as my only mod. I posted this information over a year and a half ago and at that time almost everyone wanted to Poo Poo long tube headers.Yes I know that they work. With these long tubes, x-pipe, no cats, a billet throttle body, power pipe (5 inch filter) and a two generation old JDM chip that was not calibrated for the power pipe I have made over 400 RWHP on the dyno.
Last edited by BABolt; Jan 8, 2002 at 11:26 PM.
Those people at Burns really know their stuff. They pretty much invented the merge collector that is used exclusively in NHRA Pro Stock.
I've been to their shop in Costa Mesa. They build really nice stuff.
I've been to their shop in Costa Mesa. They build really nice stuff.
Hey Riddler,
I have a Pro M 80mm left over from my 2000 L. I also purchased a BABolt stainless extension and mounting kit. This puts the Air Charge Temperature sensor downstream of the MAF where it should be, as compared to where Pro M puts it (ie, at the end of the filter). This set up was run without a chip without any adverse problems.
If you are interested in purchasing it at a very reasonable price, please contact me at: twood@wipi.ca
I have a Pro M 80mm left over from my 2000 L. I also purchased a BABolt stainless extension and mounting kit. This puts the Air Charge Temperature sensor downstream of the MAF where it should be, as compared to where Pro M puts it (ie, at the end of the filter). This set up was run without a chip without any adverse problems.
If you are interested in purchasing it at a very reasonable price, please contact me at: twood@wipi.ca


