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FICTION - Lets say you have to take your CHIPPED L in for service.

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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 04:45 PM
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FICTION - Lets say you have to take your CHIPPED L in for service.

If you were to remove the alledged chip and install a humiseal coating back on the board, could you be suspected of having modified your L?
I was just curious. My L is stock, but there seems to be alot of warranty voiding going on. It looks pretty easy to put on.
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Last edited by Redneck Ferrari; Jan 3, 2002 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 04:53 PM
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This is hypothetical. If you were to take the Lightning in with the humiseal what would you recommend coating the leads with? They were a silver color before so would you paint them with silver paint? I KNOW that leaving it a copper color doesn't work.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 05:02 PM
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I'm not sure. My L REALLY is stock, so I didn't even know that they were silver and they changed to copper. Is the humiseal have any color?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 05:05 PM
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I'm just guessing that the Humiseal is clear when dry.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 05:08 PM
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It would be very hard to prove that YOU put on humiseal.
Remember, you can barely check the oil, tires, and gas.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 05:15 PM
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The way Ford is checking the mods after blown engines I would make sure everything looks perfect before taking it in...
I do know what I am talking about.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 07:39 PM
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Know what's really strange... my pins had copper scratches on them... stock?! It really looked like someone plugged something in at the factory (before humiseal was applied).

I think the only fool-proof way is to switch ECU's... but then you have to find someone to re-program the key code (i.e. not the dealer). Or buy a scan-tool for $2000.

Heck or get a chip that does not check the key programming...

Lots of possibilities...
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 08:00 PM
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Since I work in the electronics manufacturing industry, I thought I would chime in on this one. Replacing the Humiseal is a good idea, but you would have to find out what type Ford uses on their boards, ie. UV, not UV, clear, translucent etc. Also I would recommend getting a cheap air brush and applying it, eliminating "brush strokes" and lessening the chance of detection. I wouldn't worry too much about scratched leads on the IC because, like in an earlier post, it could be determined that it was replaced in the factory. If you are still worried, get some soldering practice and "tin" the leads before installing them. Just remember the 3 second rule or you can burn out an IC (Never, Never, Never, leave a hot iron on any component for more than 3 seconds!).

Hope this helps!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 08:14 PM
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Guess you could always use the Re-programmer that HyperTech is offering for the L's.
They are supposed to just plug into the diagnostic port and you are able to select different settings for you application.
Hope that helps.
Later...
Black 2000
Oh yeah almost forgot, you are also able to un-program the settings that you installed.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 08:33 PM
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OR you could buy two Lightnings and leave one stock. Then if you have motor/tranny "problems" you could just switch motors/trannys
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 09:38 PM
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Question: are the contacts suposed to be copper colored? I cleaned mine of twice and they're still silver...maybe I'm not cleaning them enough?

I dont see how Ford could VOID anyone's warranty when in their "SVT Enthusiast" magazine (Winter Vol.4 Issue 4), in an article titled "Tune or be Tuned " ( A picture of a Lightning smoking its tires on the front page) they tell you what a chip is capable of, which type of chip to choose, and how to put it in your vehicle (with 7 picture illustrations). There are 2 or 3 sentences in the whole article telling of the potential risks, but the article plainly says (paraphrased ) "This is what a chip is - so put one in if you want more performance out of your performance vehicle!"
 
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Old Jan 3, 2002 | 09:48 PM
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JBLSILVER:

The removal of a chip, depending on which tools you use, can scratch the outer "tin" surface and cause the copper underneath to show. If you haven't seen any, you must be doing it right.

While we're on the subject, is the chip a "J" leaded type or a straight pin type. Just curious.
 

Last edited by Woggie; Jan 3, 2002 at 09:50 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2002 | 02:41 AM
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JBLsilver01,
Do you have any way to post that article?
 
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Old Jan 4, 2002 | 10:15 AM
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It seems to me that the article JBLsilver01 mentions above would be exhibit "A" should a fellow need to resolve a particular issue...

I haven't seen that publication but assume it is published by Ford. If they expressly endorse the use of a performance chip in that magazine then... I'd sure be interested to read that entire publication for disclaimers. I'd be willing to bet a disclaimer of some sort is in there... If not, then that seems to be a pretty substantial goof.

After all, say a fellow reads that publication (endorsed by Ford) and follows the advice contained in it. What is a fellow to do if he understood Ford to be expressly endorsing the use of a chip? If Ford puts something out like that only to disclaim it after the fact, it would seem to me (and I suspect most reasonable people) the consumer is being mislead.

But I doubt it - after all, companies, especially Ford, would not knowingly mislead consumers. Right?

Jim
 
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Old Jan 4, 2002 | 10:26 AM
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There are a few things to consider in this thread. First, concerning the Humiseal, there are about 100 different kinds of Humiseal. You need to know what kind to use before you can do a factory looking "cover up". I have used Humiseal in the past on electronic devices and the stuff works great for protecting a PCB. And Humiseal does have the proper stuff for what you guys are discussing .

As for the SVT Enthusiast magazine, it USED to be a Ford published magazine, but it's not anymore. It is now published by the SVTOA, which is a private club. However the SVTOA does get backing and promotion from SVT, so you'd think SVT would at least want to oversee what was being printed. Seems like a very grey area on that one.
 
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