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Old Dec 27, 2001 | 09:17 PM
  #1  
NXsilversvt's Avatar
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From: Laramie, WY
Shocks

Ok, I know you guys are going to tell me to do a search, but frankly that is kind of pissing me off. I've been looking through old posts forever and they haven't seemed to help me much (if at all). I have a question concerning shock selection and I would greatly appreciate a straight answer. I have decided to go with the Hotchkis springs to lower my truck 1/2 and the Hotchkis sway bars for the 1/2 drop. So now I have sway bars and lowering covered, but I have heard that Ls ride like crap (more or less) with the stock shocks with this setup. I want my truck to handle better (a LOT better, if possible) as well as look a little lower (I also like to drag race on the weekends, but my slicks have proven to help enough). As far as I can tell the shocks would be the weakest link in my setup. So what do I do? I've been sort of looking around on the net and found a few things, but I'm sure you guys might have some better ideas. I found that Edelbrock makes shocks for lowered regular F-150s and I thought those might be very close to the right length for an L with a 1/2 drop (Edelbrock has them listed for a 2/4 drop on a regular F-150). Would these shocks be the right length and would they improve handling while still retaining SOME driveability? What other companies make shocks that might work? I'm looking for shocks that will just bolt up and I would like to avoid a huge price tag, but at this point I might spend more. Any help is appreciated (as well as some simple, beginner-like straight answers). Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2001 | 09:41 PM
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From: Redmond, Wa
check with Mark at:
http://www.lightningforceperformance.com/...
he'll help you out...JR
 
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Old Dec 27, 2001 | 09:57 PM
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Talking shocking subject

ruslow@yahoo.com Road Racer Extrordanaire....


He road races. He had HAL QA1 12 way adjustables to fit your truck...I have tried all the other shocks with the Hotchkis and they all DO NOT DAMPEN properly for the springs rates of the Hotchkis. Hotchkis WILL NOT be selling the custom Bilstein shocks!!!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2001 | 10:20 PM
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Spike Engineering's Avatar
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From: NorCal
The responses to your prior post appeared to have all the information, but just in case, here's my opinion and some answers mixed into the opinions.

If you use the Hotchkis kit and use the stock shocks, you won't have adequate damping. I have the Hotchkis springs and removed the stock rear shocks on my L and didn't notice ANY difference. I didn't bother testing the front this way because that would have been stoopid. The valving on the 2001 Bilstiens is only slightly different from the stock ford lightning shocks. If you replace a worn set with Bilstiens, they will feel better just because they are new (not that there is anything wrong with that...). Bottom line is that you'll end up with the same. Plus, they'll wear out in about 8000 miles or sooner so the replacement cost will add up.

Will the Edebrocks fit? It doesn't matter if they aren't tuned to the spring rates. (An anology is this: install a chip and use regular gasoline. When you notice that it pings, have the tuner adjust the tune so you can run regular gasoline.)

Do other companies make shocks that might work? Yes, but you'll have to figure out which ones and then have a mounting kit made for them or piece one together like I did. There is a shock that works well but they are expensive. Yet, out of all the modifications I made, it was the BEST SPENT money so far because the change in the handling is dramatic. They're rebuildable, tuneable, externally adjustable, and Ruslow makes a kit which makes them bolt-on (one of these days, I hope to replace the "hack" mounts that I made with his - it's only a postal/mail delay).

Would I spend $500 on different springs and install el-cheapo shocks? No. Why spend $30,000 (+/-) on an all-around performance vehicle and degrade the suspension? On the other hand, if you can't afford $500 to $600 for shocks, then you can't. But, you can save for them especially while the cost of gas is low. Figure 4 cheapo shocks for about $200 - the difference is $400 EXCLUDING the replacement cost you'll pay next year. If you're saving $10 a week in gas (conservative) and you set aside an extra $30 a week, 3 months later you'll have the extra money to get shocks that will last at least two years before an inexpensive rebuild is required (more like 3 or 4 years if you don't race).

BTW, the only reason why Ruslow and I use these shocks is because we needed something that matched the damping and could withstand the load over time. There are other shocks that we could have used but they're more expensive and not as "user-friendly." (Ruslow has a different setup for the rear shocks because of the 5-link he's building). So don't think we have a "financial stake" in it. In essence, we're end users.

One other possible benefit: you can tune them for better weight transfer while drag racing.

Spike

(again, see NLOC Road Racing/HP driving for more bla bla bla)
 
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Old Dec 27, 2001 | 10:48 PM
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Well, thanks for the reply, but you still didn't answer the most important question... What shocks are you and ruslow using? They sound like they'd be a good bet for me and I'd like to start saving for them, but I need to know what they are first. How much are they (approximately)? And I guess I'll have to get ahold of ruslow to get them mounted. Again, thanks!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2001 | 11:28 PM
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Spike Engineering's Avatar
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From: NorCal
Originally posted by NXsilversvt
Well, thanks for the reply, but you still didn't answer the most important question... What shocks are you and ruslow using? They sound like they'd be a good bet for me and I'd like to start saving for them, but I need to know what they are first. How much are they (approximately)? And I guess I'll have to get ahold of ruslow to get them mounted. Again, thanks!
From above...
Originally posted by MadMaxSC
ruslow@yahoo.com Road Racer Extrordanaire....
He road races. He had...
(fill in the blanks for fun!)

Just in case you missed it, his email is ruslow@yahoo.com. Don't expect a reply until next week, he's visiting his mom. But since I'll be seeing him tomorrow night and/or Saturday, I'll give him the heads up. Also, he won't make the parts until there is a financial comittment, so don't expect an overnight delivery. They are bolt on, but I have instructions that I email to those that have bought them (there's a trick to the installation - simple but a huge savings in time).

Cost: About $600 (that's were I came up with the math: $200+ $400)

Just in case,
ruslow@yahoo.com (don't expect a quick reply)
$600
and See NLOC Road Racing/HP driving for more bla bla bla.

Spike
 
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