Lightning

more guage ?

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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 07:00 PM
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more guage ?

Getting ready to put in pods and guages were and how did you all patch into the ignition and did you do all three on same line?

Is it ok to just jump into the dimmer fuse for the lights?

Also what is the easest way to patch into the o2 sensor sorry for all the questions>
Thanks

I more Those that taped into the fuel rail with adapter did you use any teflon tape or just tighten it good?
 

Last edited by ally69; Dec 18, 2001 at 07:45 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 09:37 PM
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1) Tap into the back of the radio power wire. Just pull the panel off from around the radio. Then pull out the radio with those 4-way prong tools. Then use a wire tester to find the proper pin.
And yes you can tap your fuel pressure and A/F gauge into it together.
2) You can tap into the dimmer fuse for your lights on your gauges.
3) Use one of the wire taps (looks like a crimp). You can find em at Napa (or similar) place the 2 wires in it and squeeze it shut. MAKE SURE TO TAP INTO THE FRONT O2 SENSOR'S BLACK WIRE if you don't your A/F gauge will NOT work properly.
4) You can try to use Teflon tape but it will prolly just "melt" away if gas touches it. I didn't and I have no leaks out of the shrader valve (sp?) I did tighten mine ALOT....it seemed like I was going to strip it, hopefully I didn't.

I just got done doing my gauges last weekend so the ***** is fresh in my head. Any other questions let me know.

---Joe
 
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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 11:19 PM
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Thanks soap I catch you agian If I have any problems.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2001 | 01:23 PM
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Hello,

I just got done doing a boost gage and a A/F meter myself, so hopefully I can save you some of the crap I went through. . .

Tap the lighting for the gages off of the little light that goes to your ashtray area. Both wires are black, so you'll have to use a piercing lead to find the power wire. You will be able to dim your gage lights with your dash lights. The ground wire can go to a green colored bolt that is to the right of your gas pedal, behind the black heater cover panel. Your boost line is just above your gas pedal coming through the firewall. It is black plasting tubing with a silver colored label on it. Put the T-fitting in where the factory plastic vacuum connector is.

As for the A/F meter: Autometer says splice into your existing O2 sensor wiring, but I have found that no matter how you tap this wire, you WILL CHANGE THE VOLTAGE signal (even if it is a very small amount) to your processor. I soldered this connection the first time and found that while the meter did work, all of the cylinders on that bank started running slightly richer than the other banks. I switched sides and ran it to the other bank's sensor, and that side started running richer. So to eliminate this, just buy a one-wire generic O2 sensor from AutoZone (I used one off of an 86 V-6 Tempo) for $19.95 and put it in the exhaust pipe in the general area of the factory sensor and run the purple wire to it. Remember, this type of sensor has to heat up before it will give you an accurate reading, but it sure beats having your engine's calibration thrown off. Plus, there's no tapping wires and all that crap. Just hook up the wire and go. Tap the power off the dash light fuse, and be sure to put in the 5-amp inline fuse they recommend. You can run the ground to the same green bolt that the other gage is hooked to. . .it's a good ground.

I hope this information helps you out.
 

Last edited by WrongdayJ; Dec 19, 2001 at 01:31 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2001 | 01:28 PM
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Thumbs up VERY Informative.......

As for the A/F meter: Autometer says splice into your existing O2 sensor wiring, but I have found that no matter how you tap this wire, you WILL CHANGE THE VOLTAGE signal (even a small amount) to your processor. I soldered this connection the first time ane found that while the meter did work, all of the cylinders on that bank started running slightly richer than the other bank. I switched sides and ran it to the other banks sensor, and it ran richer. So to eliminate this, just buy a one-wirew generic O2 sensor from AutoZone (I used one off of an 86 tempo) for $20 and put it in the exhaust pipe in the general area of the factory sensor and run the purple wire to it. Remember, this type of sensor has to heat up before it will give you an accurate reading, but it beats having your engine's calibration thrown off.
Thanks for the tip J.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2001 | 04:38 PM
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Old Dec 19, 2001 | 05:02 PM
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Anyone else have this prob with there a/f? Never heard of it and im not going to bung my exhust just to run a/f guage? Plus the lightning banks are always rich?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2001 | 06:41 PM
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WrongdayJ

I think you might be the ONLY guy on this board or NLOC that has wired their A/F gauge that way. I follow everything you are saying but how could you tell the drivers side bank was running richer after you tapped the 02 sensor's signal wire. Did you have 2 gauges hooked up at once......1 to each bank? Just curious.

--Joe
 
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Old Dec 19, 2001 | 07:02 PM
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Anyone who taped the radio for power know which wire is the switched power?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2001 | 07:15 PM
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Wink Testing 1-2-3

Use a sharp pointed wire tester and just start testing all of them. I can't remember which wire it was but if you are looking at the radio and pull it out the harness furthest to the left has the wire you need in it.

Ironically the 2nd to last wire I "poked" was the one I needed

Hope that helped.......Joe
 
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Old Dec 20, 2001 | 10:43 AM
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I had originally hooked up the meter to the driver's side HEGO sensor closest to the exhaust manifold as per Autometer's instructions. After reading a thing or two about how wire size/diameter/length/etc. can effect current flow through a circuit, I decided to check the plugs on the drivers side bank of cylinders against the passenger's side. The driver's side bank was noticeably darker (indicating to me that they were running rich). So I disconnected the meter and hooked it up to the passenger's side. After a similar amount of milage had elapsed, I checked the passenger's side plugs and sure enough. . .they were darker than the driver's side.
(Note: The plugs were cleaned and regapped between these checks)

As far as me not hooking the meter up 'like anyone else on this board or NLOC'. . .well. . .um. . .I'm not sure if I should be insulted or flattered. I consider these message boards to be like a big information salad bar. I believe what I think is right, and pass on the rest. Most of what I read is misleading bunk, but occasionally there are very informative, accurate, innovative postings. I urge you and anyone else reading this post to experiment for yourself to see if you can duplicate my results/findings. Perhaps together we can help other L owners avoid potential issues down the road. Isn't that what this is all about? Please let me know what you find out regarding this A/F thing.

BTW. . .the local exhaust shop installed the bung in my exhaust for free. Well, not FREE, it cost me a beer. Small price to pay for correct engine calibration. . .right?

Take care,
 
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Old Dec 20, 2001 | 12:30 PM
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Smile I agree

WrongdayJ...........
I was not trying to be insulting at all. Actually I was throwing you some Kudo's for not just following the crowd. Actually being a sheep sometimes the best thing to do. Anyway, props to you man, and I agree 100% that I think everyone needs to take just a little bit off these boards and add their own personal touch.

Besides that's how we make our truck ours.

---Joe
 
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Old Dec 20, 2001 | 01:08 PM
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Thumbs up

Cool.

Thanks for the kudos.

Catch you later,
 
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