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Any tips on removing lower pulley?

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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 03:30 PM
  #1  
Skank Dog's Avatar
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From: Texas
Angry Any tips on removing lower pulley?

I have cussed,bitched,drank,and thrown tools everywhere!!! I have the JDM 2# on there now and am trying to remove it to install the JL 4#. This MF'er is NOT coming off! I know its left hand thread and I am trying to break it loose turning it clockwise. I have the truck up on jack stands and am trying to do it from underneath with a breaker bar. Anybody have any tips or tricks for this? Damn.......what a pain in the a$$!!!........HELP!
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 03:35 PM
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From: Elkton, MD
Push the breaker with your foot. I kicked mine a few times to loosen it. You could always ask beefcake to give you a hand. With those pythons he wouldn't have any trouble.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 04:26 PM
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Cool

I JUST got done doing this job 5 minutes ago. I broke a 1/2 drive breaker bar in the process! Anyway, You don't have to remove the pulley sindle shaft at all. Get a 13mm or 1/2" DEEP OFFSET BOX END wrench and simply remove the three bolts that attach the spindle shaft to the harmonic balancer. There IS room to remove the bolts with the blower pulley in place. Remove the lock plate from the torque converter so you can rotate the crank to allow acess to the three bolts from the bottom side.

Hope this helps,
Jake...

P.S. JL 5# pulley is not in my sig yet.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 04:44 PM
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Talking

Dog, no matter how mad you got at your pulley, i guarantee i still hold the title
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 04:44 PM
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Hey Jake, 2001s don't have those 3 bolts, that adapter is cast into the balancer. BTW, if your doing a pulley, you should send your chip back to me for a reburn, you'll need one.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 05:18 PM
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just hit it

Put your breaker bar with the hex socket on the pulley and get it into a postion so you can hit it with a 4# hammer. The quick blow of a hammer will loosen it way quicker than any strong man with a breaker bar and a cheater pipe stuck on it. I weigh 150# and am only 5'6" and I did mine like this and got it with two blows of the hammer.
Tip: Find you two or three bolts the same size but about 2" long. Cut the head off the bolts and after you remove the old pulley and cage stuff, take these bolts and screw them into the crank pulley just a few turns. This will align your new JL pulley perfectly with the three holes needed to attach it. The JL pulley is a tight fit and its going to be hard to turn to line up after you get in on. This will save you lots of time later.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 05:36 PM
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From: Olive Branch, MS, Memphis Burb
Cool

Dog,

I when back and found this thread. It's pretty much covers it all.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ghlight=pulley
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 06:13 PM
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Hey, thanks for the help fellas! We finally got it off! We ended up putting a come a-long on it(breaker bar) and tied the other end to my truck! We broke two 1/2 breaker bars trying to get it off! Thanks craftsman! I didnt know those things would bow like that. I was a nervous wreck the whole time! The whole truck shook when it finally gave in! I mean that sob was on there!!!!

Sal- Im going from 3lbs. to 5 lbs. JDM said I DID NOT need a reburn..........Whats your opinion? Thanks for your help!

I think Ill raise the BS flag on this being a 30 minute job!! It took us a total of 6 hrs!!
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 06:37 PM
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I'm not going to comment on what JDM told you, but if you called me and asked the same question, I would tell you that you definitely need a reburn.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 06:55 PM
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I know that the MAF does compensate for added air (going faster past the sensor due to increased boost), by adding more fuel. but ,exactly how much, I don't know.On a 4# you may be running a bit lean. You need to get an A/F meter on it to determine how lean.I personally am running a 4# without a reburn but I already have a performance chip in my 01.I would call Jim again and varify this.I'm sure hes done his homework on this.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 07:08 PM
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Had the same problem, but you came up with a new way to get it off. A come-along.
ref. my thread that was ill received by some.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...?threadid=8143
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 07:15 PM
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Unhappy

Sorry to all, MY BAD. I didn't pay enough attention to 2001 L in the sig. ooops...

Sal,
My chip will be on its way back to you shortly for the reburn. Thanks for correcting my error regarding the pulley removal.

Jake...
 
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Old Dec 12, 2001 | 09:42 PM
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I just removed the stock pulley on My 01. I'm 245 and work out regular. I yanked on the breaker bar....about a 20 incher....no luck...laid the bar back against the front sway bar..rolled over under the right side and kicked it..broke loose. It was tight.
Overnighted My chip to Sal...I did drive it and only saw about 2 # more boost with this 3 pound pulley. Maybe the reburn will help achieve a bit more...I have my doubts..The truck is doggy without the chip......Fed _X it back Pleeeeaaazzzzzeeeeeeee Sal.

Jeff in Bama


Waitin` on thoses iridium plugs as well.....

I`m a junkie.........in withdrawals.....grin
 
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Old Dec 13, 2001 | 09:48 AM
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From: Texas
Masterloggie- Thanks for posting that link! I wonder what is going on with these JDM lowers being so hard to remove. We are not the only ones it seems having hell getting them off! Im 6'0 210 lbs. and my neighbor is 6'4 280 lbs. and both of us together could not budge it!!!! After breaking two breaker bars and seeing how the third bowed into a half moon shape while being pulled with the come along, I dont believe anybody (even beefcake with his 20" guns) LOL! could remove these things by themselves.
I dont know what MRBBQMAN did to his pulley, but it looks pretty ugly!!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2001 | 10:16 AM
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The pulley/spindle was finally removed using a Craftsman "daisy cutter"

The Craftsman Daisy Cutter, ,,if it won't come out, go in after it
 
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