Did a search and read about a million posts but still have questions. I like the look of lowering the rear, but I am more interested in functionality than cosmetics. As I understand it, lowering the rear with longer shackles has the benefit of putting more weight on the rear wheels and aiding traction at launch (very good), but makes the rear end "looser" and compromises the handling (bad). It also reduces clearance, and I suspect would lead to the truck bottoming out while towing my heavy boat. So, nix on the shackles. But what about the Hotchkis springs, or even the LFP composite springs? How would using either of those solutions influence these parameters?
1) towing capacity, 2) traction, 3) handling, and 4) compatibility with JDM's traction bars (which are on the way)? Feedback from gurus like Captain Oblivious, Spike, etc. desired.

 

alhhadoggy, You may want to think about air bags. They make air bags for lowered trucks. called slam air. Air lift air bag makes them. I tow a 25ft travel trailer. I have about 500 pounds of tonge weight. On occation on rough roads I do bottom out. I have not changed my suspension. I have just changed to Bilstein shocks. My old ones were mush. I am going to put air bags on very shortly. They say it does not change the ride. Only when you put a lot air in them. They make them for the L. We know we have plenty of power. Just a little short on rear suspension. Bob.

 

1) Towing capacity:
Although the towing capacity isn't reduced, the payload capacity may be reduced, but not because of the load in the bed but the reduced travel of the axle. Either airbags or adjustable/stiffer shocks would help.

2) Traction
The are many variables that would affect traction - lowering type, spring rates and shocks. For instance, with the shocks and springs I have now, I cannot apply full throttle on a cool day like today in 1st gear (at any speed) or the tires spin (my setup is more for cornering). But, with a few clicks/turns of the dials, I can change the jounce/rebound of the fronts and rears and get better traction.

3) Handling
Similar to 2, above

4) Compatibility with JDM's traction bars
Don't know. Are these Jay's or something similar? He probably has lot of excellent input on all the items.

You also might want to consider Stan's sliders on the rear.

BTW, this past week I was in San Diego, then TJ, then Laguna plus Thousand Oaks and Century City. So, I hope you understand why I didn't call to arrange getting together.

I drove a Lincoln Town Car all week and then had to drive to Northern California. After driving all week in the Town Car, I finally noticed how firm the ride is on my Lightning with the new shocks. I might reduce the settings on all four shocks a click or two.

 

I would think most lowering kits would work JDM's traction bars.

Spike - they not like Jay's at all. Jim's more like a bar that connects to the fram of the truck an runs to the bottom of the axle where normal traction bars would attach. Almost like the lower bar on a 4-link setup.

 

I used the 2in shakles at first, still towed a trailer and race car fine. No clearance problems at all. You just have to set the tounge weight right...

 

I think I'll just forget the drop and hook up the boat when I want better traction.

 

Alpha,

I believe So-Cal's rear lowering involves adding a leaf spring, to retain stock payload capacity (towing capacity not affected). I don't know the specifics at the moment but I was going this route eventually so I could still use my truck to haul the bigger payloads.

 

Although So-Cal and Hotchkis advertise that the payload capacity is retained, the axle travel to the bump stops is reduced. Subsequently, substantial weight in stock lightning that comes close to bottoming out more than likely will bottom out in a lowered Lightning. One of their Engineers told me this directly (at least he was honest about it).

 

I'll need to discuss this subject further with you, George, when we hook up.

 

That makes sense.