My L is a daily driver and will not see WOT on a regular basis. I've noticed that people are having trouble with getting fuel with the higher boost set-ups. I've started getting worried about burning plugs with all the posts I've seen lately on the topic. I'm not a street racer; but, I've modded my vehicle to be able to spank the children in their play toys when they get out of hand. HeHeHe Does anyone know if this is a good alternative to changing the fuel pumps. If so, they would be transferable to another vehicle when the time comes to move on to another ride. You could at least resell it to some one else. Here's a link to check it out.

http://www.alternativeauto.com/water...oostapump.html
dyno results for toyota 4-runner
http://www.gadgetonline.com/dyno.htm

Are their any supporting vendors that have the connections to get these things. If they are worth it that is.
Roger

 

Though increasing the power to the pumps would make em flow more, you might have to worry about them burning up. For soemthing like that, dont go cheap. Just do it right the first time and dont take and the chances of blowing anything up.

 

This thing (the B-A-P) is boost activated. i.e. not on all the time. And the price is not that far off what it would cost for pumps. The article that I linked covered all of that. Anybody had any experience with these things? I'm not trying to take short cuts for short cuts sake; but, If there is an easier and more convenient way to do something (that works), I'd like to know about it.

 

Roger, I've used the B-A-P on some blown Gen 1s in the past. It is a neat part, and for sure it does what it's supposed to. But personally I'd rather use higher rated pumps than increase the voltage to the exisiting ones. I've seen the B-A-P burn out plenty of in tank pumps in both Lightnings and Mustangs. Plus, the pumps in our trucks are duty cycled, not just an on/off type situation, and I'd be more comfortable using a mechanically improved part, than to try to improve the exisiting part electrically. I guess you could look at it the same way as the valve body vs chip increased line pressure.

 

 

I had what is called a Volt blaster on my 94 z28 which made
642 rwhp.

When I first got the procharger it came with a in line pump and a fmu.

After I rebuilt the engine I ditched tthe FMU for DFI # 50 injectors
and a Voltblaster.

I did dyno the car without the VB and there was a 20 rwhp diff
without it.


Ronnie
2001 Lightning Black and Stock
13.66@102.8 2.2 60 ft

 

Although there is nothing wrong with a boost activated fuel pump (in fact it makes perfect sense with a S/C) i have to go with Sal on this one.Fooling a crital part such as a fuel pump is "risky buisiness" and although burning them up is a rare thing, it is always good practice to build-in performance rather than "over-spinning" them. In addition, like Odins Wrath said ..for the extra 50 bucks and little more time, you might be better off with the hi-volume pumps. Just my .02

 

I used it on my Dodge ram with the Kenne Bell Blower. Although the stock pump is good for the stock setup, it needed more fuel. IMO, it is a band aid setup for not having a large enough pump.

Anthony