Panhard Bar installed.... Holy Apex!
Gang:
In preparation for a little road course action this weekend, I finished installing Ruslow's panhard bar last night in addition to a set of BellTech drop shackles.
The install wasn't bad at all. Removal of the bed WAS NOT necessary. In fact, it only needed to be tilted/lifted about an inch and a half.
As for performance, the rear end no longer want to be Steve Kinser. Unpredictability in the corners is GONE!
Much thanks to Ruslow and Spike for their assistance and guideance!!
Look for a How-To in an upcoming NLOC newsletter.
Finished product....
Gallery of a few images HERE
In preparation for a little road course action this weekend, I finished installing Ruslow's panhard bar last night in addition to a set of BellTech drop shackles.
The install wasn't bad at all. Removal of the bed WAS NOT necessary. In fact, it only needed to be tilted/lifted about an inch and a half.
As for performance, the rear end no longer want to be Steve Kinser. Unpredictability in the corners is GONE!
Much thanks to Ruslow and Spike for their assistance and guideance!!
Look for a How-To in an upcoming NLOC newsletter.

Finished product....
Gallery of a few images HERE
Mine will hopefully be coming today... 
How did you drill the hole? I have no experience with this sort of thing, so I don't even know where to start....heheh... What kind of bit was it, etc...
Did you have the truick on ramps or a jackstand or anything?
Thanks,
Daniel

How did you drill the hole? I have no experience with this sort of thing, so I don't even know where to start....heheh... What kind of bit was it, etc...
Did you have the truick on ramps or a jackstand or anything?
Thanks,
Daniel
Daniel,
I'll shoot ya a draft of the How-To notes and help via phone if necessary.
Once the lower hole location is scribed, use a center punch, nail, etc. and a hammer to make an indentation so the drill bit doesn't wander.
I started with a small 1/8" bit to get he hole started then switched to the 13/32" bit. USE SAFETY GOGGLES or a shield as it throws some REALLY nasty shards of steel in your face. Good excuse to but a larger index of Craftsman bits too.
No jackstands or ramps needed, in fact DONT, just remove the spare so you have room to work underneath. Creeper is a bonus
L'Rod
Thanks for the compliments
I'll shoot ya a draft of the How-To notes and help via phone if necessary.
Once the lower hole location is scribed, use a center punch, nail, etc. and a hammer to make an indentation so the drill bit doesn't wander.
I started with a small 1/8" bit to get he hole started then switched to the 13/32" bit. USE SAFETY GOGGLES or a shield as it throws some REALLY nasty shards of steel in your face. Good excuse to but a larger index of Craftsman bits too.

No jackstands or ramps needed, in fact DONT, just remove the spare so you have room to work underneath. Creeper is a bonus
L'Rod
Thanks for the compliments
Put vasoline on your hands before starting or wear gloves when you're working around the gunk on the frame. If you don't, you'll have fun trying to remove it before you eat!
BTW, I hope to have some new shocks tested this month. Hopefully they'll complete the suspension package.
Spike
BTW, I hope to have some new shocks tested this month. Hopefully they'll complete the suspension package.
Spike
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Andy you are correct in that it is changing the roll center but the main reason for doing this is to get the spring flex out ot the rear end so it does not rear steer.It is a give and take.Stan
Here is a link I posted on the NLOC Board to explain some of the designing of this item.But keep in mind wheree the roll center already is on these trucks.Stan
http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/panhard.shtml
http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/panhard.shtml


