Question abou inner cooler pump wiring..
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From: Southern Maryland
Question about inner cooler pump wiring..
I did a search and found some stuff that 4D THUNDER posted, but i am still a little sketchy on how to wire this thing up. Last night i ran a test wire from the positive of the battery to the white wire on the pump, and it never came on..what do i need to do to wire a switch up to be able to run this thing with the truck off?
Thanks,
Brandon
Thanks,
Brandon
Last edited by 2kL; Nov 8, 2001 at 07:14 AM.
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From: Kenner, LA, USA
Here is a copy of a reply I had saved on this subject.
Screw that wire out of the pcm crap. if you had searched for "intercooler pump switch" you would have found https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/008251.html
Which says the following
Well I'm bound and determined to get my intercooler pump to run in the pits so I copied Sals post about taping the white wire with the orange tracer that comes out of the firewall at the pcm. Removed battery and taped into wire. Grounded wire...nothing. Turned key to on and grounded wire..pump would run. Well I'm not going to sit with the key in the on position and not have the engine run so back to the pump.
Cut positive wire and run both ends to a single pole double throw switch. Connect pump lead to center of switch, connect other end coming from relay to one end of switch and connect other end of switch to positive power source. With the spdt switch there can be no back feed to relay. Even if you leave switch in power mode everything will work fine but if you leave it there and go to bed you're gonna wake up with a dead battery. Ran all the wire in plastic wire loom. Used a 35 amp heavy duty switch as I have no idea what the amp rating is of the pump. hooked up works great.
Incidently I hit or knocked the switch on getting out of the truck one nite and my wife says the next morning my truck is making a funny noise. The pump ran all nite long. The truck started fine. Must not draw much.
noelvm
It is a very good idea to run your pump in the staging lanes as the fluid temp can easily go up 10 degrees or more when you shut off your enging and it DOES NOT cool down quickly. I do this all the time and in the pits until the fluid cools back to what ever it will drop to for any given day. Generally it will go up 10 degrees in a run. Ten degress of fluid temp can cost you .05 to .1 in et.
Screw that wire out of the pcm crap. if you had searched for "intercooler pump switch" you would have found https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/008251.html
Which says the following
Well I'm bound and determined to get my intercooler pump to run in the pits so I copied Sals post about taping the white wire with the orange tracer that comes out of the firewall at the pcm. Removed battery and taped into wire. Grounded wire...nothing. Turned key to on and grounded wire..pump would run. Well I'm not going to sit with the key in the on position and not have the engine run so back to the pump.
Cut positive wire and run both ends to a single pole double throw switch. Connect pump lead to center of switch, connect other end coming from relay to one end of switch and connect other end of switch to positive power source. With the spdt switch there can be no back feed to relay. Even if you leave switch in power mode everything will work fine but if you leave it there and go to bed you're gonna wake up with a dead battery. Ran all the wire in plastic wire loom. Used a 35 amp heavy duty switch as I have no idea what the amp rating is of the pump. hooked up works great.
Incidently I hit or knocked the switch on getting out of the truck one nite and my wife says the next morning my truck is making a funny noise. The pump ran all nite long. The truck started fine. Must not draw much.
noelvm
It is a very good idea to run your pump in the staging lanes as the fluid temp can easily go up 10 degrees or more when you shut off your enging and it DOES NOT cool down quickly. I do this all the time and in the pits until the fluid cools back to what ever it will drop to for any given day. Generally it will go up 10 degrees in a run. Ten degress of fluid temp can cost you .05 to .1 in et.
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From: Illinois
Redchief can you tell me what this hurts? I have had this setup ALL summer.
There is a wire at the pcm harness that you splice into. It is behind the battery on the firewall. I'll have to look and see what the color is. You don't have to cut the wire just use one of those splice connectors....sort of like a piggyback thing. You will NOT have to cut any wires. You hook the wire that you splice into one side of a toggle switch. The other side of the switch goes to ground. When you want the pump on turn the ignition key to the on position but do not start the engine. Then flip the toggle switch to the on position and the IC pump will run. You can run and install your wires and switch just about anywhere you want. Mine is under the hood close by the battery so that I use it between runs at the track. It does not matter even if you forget and leave the switch on because the IC pump requires a negitive groung to run so even with the engine running nothing will be damaged. I'll have to go out to the garage to see what color that IC pump negitive ground wire is. What I do is put ice on the IC coolant reservoir and the top of the intake and let the IC pump circulate to cool thing down. hope this helps. Jeff
There is a wire at the pcm harness that you splice into. It is behind the battery on the firewall. I'll have to look and see what the color is. You don't have to cut the wire just use one of those splice connectors....sort of like a piggyback thing. You will NOT have to cut any wires. You hook the wire that you splice into one side of a toggle switch. The other side of the switch goes to ground. When you want the pump on turn the ignition key to the on position but do not start the engine. Then flip the toggle switch to the on position and the IC pump will run. You can run and install your wires and switch just about anywhere you want. Mine is under the hood close by the battery so that I use it between runs at the track. It does not matter even if you forget and leave the switch on because the IC pump requires a negitive groung to run so even with the engine running nothing will be damaged. I'll have to go out to the garage to see what color that IC pump negitive ground wire is. What I do is put ice on the IC coolant reservoir and the top of the intake and let the IC pump circulate to cool thing down. hope this helps. Jeff
Last edited by JeffsLightning; Nov 8, 2001 at 11:11 AM.
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From: Southern Maryland
Originally posted by Red Chief
Here is a copy of a reply I had saved on this subject.
Screw that wire out of the pcm crap. if you had searched for "intercooler pump switch" you would have found https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/008251.html
Which says the following
Well I'm bound and determined to get my intercooler pump to run in the pits so I copied Sals post about taping the white wire with the orange tracer that comes out of the firewall at the pcm. Removed battery and taped into wire. Grounded wire...nothing. Turned key to on and grounded wire..pump would run. Well I'm not going to sit with the key in the on position and not have the engine run so back to the pump.
Cut positive wire and run both ends to a single pole double throw switch. Connect pump lead to center of switch, connect other end coming from relay to one end of switch and connect other end of switch to positive power source. With the spdt switch there can be no back feed to relay. Even if you leave switch in power mode everything will work fine but if you leave it there and go to bed you're gonna wake up with a dead battery. Ran all the wire in plastic wire loom. Used a 35 amp heavy duty switch as I have no idea what the amp rating is of the pump. hooked up works great.
Incidently I hit or knocked the switch on getting out of the truck one nite and my wife says the next morning my truck is making a funny noise. The pump ran all nite long. The truck started fine. Must not draw much.
noelvm
It is a very good idea to run your pump in the staging lanes as the fluid temp can easily go up 10 degrees or more when you shut off your enging and it DOES NOT cool down quickly. I do this all the time and in the pits until the fluid cools back to what ever it will drop to for any given day. Generally it will go up 10 degrees in a run. Ten degress of fluid temp can cost you .05 to .1 in et.
Here is a copy of a reply I had saved on this subject.
Screw that wire out of the pcm crap. if you had searched for "intercooler pump switch" you would have found https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/008251.html
Which says the following
Well I'm bound and determined to get my intercooler pump to run in the pits so I copied Sals post about taping the white wire with the orange tracer that comes out of the firewall at the pcm. Removed battery and taped into wire. Grounded wire...nothing. Turned key to on and grounded wire..pump would run. Well I'm not going to sit with the key in the on position and not have the engine run so back to the pump.
Cut positive wire and run both ends to a single pole double throw switch. Connect pump lead to center of switch, connect other end coming from relay to one end of switch and connect other end of switch to positive power source. With the spdt switch there can be no back feed to relay. Even if you leave switch in power mode everything will work fine but if you leave it there and go to bed you're gonna wake up with a dead battery. Ran all the wire in plastic wire loom. Used a 35 amp heavy duty switch as I have no idea what the amp rating is of the pump. hooked up works great.
Incidently I hit or knocked the switch on getting out of the truck one nite and my wife says the next morning my truck is making a funny noise. The pump ran all nite long. The truck started fine. Must not draw much.
noelvm
It is a very good idea to run your pump in the staging lanes as the fluid temp can easily go up 10 degrees or more when you shut off your enging and it DOES NOT cool down quickly. I do this all the time and in the pits until the fluid cools back to what ever it will drop to for any given day. Generally it will go up 10 degrees in a run. Ten degress of fluid temp can cost you .05 to .1 in et.
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From: Illinois
Brandon the wire is white with a pink tracer. Here is a picture...
Last edited by JeffsLightning; Nov 8, 2001 at 11:53 AM.
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From: Kenner, LA, USA
JeffsLightning
Probably doesn't hurt anything. (I am an old fart that remembers what the key on could do to point type distributors. I know this doesn't apply to modern systems but I still stay away from leaving the ignition on if I don't have to.) I just did not want to turn on the ignition switch to get the pump to work. I attached the switch that straps the JL cooler to the side of the inner panel. When I am inbetween runs, I pop the hood and turn on the switch to run the pump. When I am ready to run, I turn off the swithch and close the hood. As with many mods, there usually is more than one way to resolve the issue that are as good as the other.
Probably doesn't hurt anything. (I am an old fart that remembers what the key on could do to point type distributors. I know this doesn't apply to modern systems but I still stay away from leaving the ignition on if I don't have to.) I just did not want to turn on the ignition switch to get the pump to work. I attached the switch that straps the JL cooler to the side of the inner panel. When I am inbetween runs, I pop the hood and turn on the switch to run the pump. When I am ready to run, I turn off the swithch and close the hood. As with many mods, there usually is more than one way to resolve the issue that are as good as the other.
