Has anyone lowered the font end by cutting the stock springs? any opinions?

 

Haven't done it to my L but I did to a dakota. Rode pretty good. Lowered it 3". But a L is totally different. Spend the $129 and do it right. I think you can keep the stock shocks up to a 2" drop.

 

I have no poblem buying new springs. I want to lower it about
1 1/2". But dont like bell tech soft spring rate. Hotchkis isnt low enough and is too stiff? So I was thinking about taking 1 ring off the stock springs.

 

I think So-Cal Speed Shop has a 1 1/2 or 1 3/4" drop spring.

 

NEVER cut your stock springs on any vehicle. You'll throw EVERYTHING off and could possible risk you and your vehicle into a wreck a lot more easier.

BfB

 

J.D.:

Cutting the stock spring 1 ring should give you just about the drop you want and it won't be soft like the BellTechs.

You can probably still get it aligned with that little of a drop. Don't forget about the cam adj. kits...

BfB is correct about slamming a vehicle to the ground. It would certainly be unsafe to drive like that.

 

The shop that dropped my Lightning for me used custom-modified stock Lightning lower A-arms and cut stock Lightning springs for the front drop. From my driving experience, there does not seem to be any loss of performance or control, but rather the opposite. Again, the guys who did this are experienced, and mine was not the first Lightning they modified this way.

~rick

 

Cut them if you wish but, do not use a torch to cut them. The heat can ruin the spring tension.

 

Hey Spoondog I saw ur truck man and I was woundering how the ride was? The drop looks good!! What kind of shocks and rear kit r u using?? Do u think those suspension experts could make me some custom A arms??
Thanks
Smok'n L

 

Thanks Smok'n-

The rear was lowered just using the 4" DJM hangers and shackles. ALso a 4-degree wedge was installed between the leaf springs and the rear axle perches to maintain the correct driveline angle.

The truck also got new KYB shocks all around. The two part KYB part numbers I have written down are KG54311 (rears, I believe) and KG5414 (fronts, I think).

I have found the ride to actually be lots better than stock, minus a few clearance issues with the front valance, of course. I do also have a (IMO) minor issue with the truck's turning radius - I can now only turn the steering wheel 1.25 full turns in either direction from the straight ahead position. If I turn the steering wheel more than 1.25 turns in either direction, I risk grinding the inside of the wheel on the lower A-arm... and it is audible and tactile through the steering wheel. Again, IMO it's not a big deal, as I've been able to adjust quite nicely to the new limits - it makes no difference in regular street driving, but it does mean a few more 3-point turns in tight quarters.

If you're really interested, I can call up and check to see if the shop would be willing to make some of the A-arms. Just let me know.