hey guys im ready to drop the cash for some good hooking slicks. i know most of u r on m/t et streets. i just wanna know if thats bout the best tire out. and another thing how hard r u guys launching your trucks. it seems to me that the higher rpm u can launch with a good hooking set of tires would net a big gain. and another thing what size m/t tires do i need and whats the best place to buy the wheels i will need for these tires, and for that matter where is the best place to buy the tires. im interested in hearing bout all different tires not just m/t although i am leaning toward them at this moment.

thanks guys

 

I've got to do it. No, No, No! Yes I've got to! No! No! No! You've been warned. Yes, give it to me. STAY AWAY FROM THAT KEYBOARD! AYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEUGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

ROFLAMO!!!

must...............fight.................urge..... .......to.............type.............


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hey i did do a search but alot of it was old and it didnt answer most of the questions i asked i got the sizes of the tires and the wheels from the search as for the rest well it just wasnt there.

 

Sorry Rusty, I been savin that post for the right time since last week. I couldn't resist.

The best price we have found on the MTs 26x11.5R16 is at Discount tire. Usually 150-155 each. I think their cost is 135 each plus frt. They are far and away the best drag tire unless you get custom made 15" rims which cost too much for most of us. I don't advise driving them on the street. If you are going to race the 1/4 get 10" rims. In the 1/8 7"-8" rims are ok. I'd advise against the tubes. They stiffen up your sidewall and reduce traction. Operating PSI will vary with rim size. We have found 18 psi for the narrow rims and 22 for the 10" rims. Thats hot. Check air pressure before each run. Air tank is the easiest way to maintain pressure.

I'm a bracket racer and therefore I am interested in consistant Et not fastest time. I launch at 1000-1200 which is best for the track I run at. I know those who launch at 1500-2000 but they only hook up some of the time which is no good for bracket racing.

 

Hey Noelvm

Im usually a quite guy but all you seem do to is go around and tell people to do a search. I think every issue about a Lightning has already come up, and then some. If new guys, or even old guys on here ask the same questions whats the big deal, if they didnt there wouldnt be anything to talk about. I think more then half the posts on here usaully end up with side discussions between people that dont even have to do with what the question that was asked. I think im going to do a search on how many times you have said do a search, it may comprise most of your posts.

By the way drive thru and have a nice day

 

thanks noelvm, one question though how long do u do the burnout do u spin em until u see a little white smoke and quit or do u let the smoke roll? o and on the 10 inch rims i would need the 11.5 inch tire right? thanks im still new at this.

 

Massive burnouts like John Force will ruin MTs. Shift into low. Rev up to 4-5K. Adjust side mirror to watch rear wheelwell. When you start to see blue smoke do a slow FIVE count and release up to line. Watch rpm when you release. Disconnect 2wire boost switch on engine to eliminate the possilbility of boost loss. (If you heat up the Mts too much the rubber will start peeling off the tire.)

After burn out Shift to Netural and rev to 2K a couple of times and shift to drive and stop. (This routine will keep you from ever leaving the line in Low.) When stopped look at your board and verify that your dialin is correct. If not don't stage. If dialin is ok move up to line.
noelvm

We all use the 11.5 irregardless of rim size. If you are still running the 355 rear gears (as I am) you will do better with the 7-8" rims. If you have moved up to the 373 or 410 gears you will do better with the 10" rims.

Put on tires and make one 10 second burnout. Take tires off and let them sit for 24 hours. This seasoning burnout is great to do in front of your house and really impress your neighbors.

Mark tires on back L and R. Rotate on rear back and forth every 30 passes.

 

One comment--one question.

Moving to the line and blipping the throttle in 'neutral' also((according to a long-ago post by Sal or Spiro?) brings in cooler air into the intake assembly and shows up as a drop of about 20 degrees as sensed by the IAT sensor--good for hp.

And, why wait for 30 passes before swapping MTs left to right? I do that each Fri before making my passes. No big deal--just wonderin'.

Dan

 

Dan,

The 30 pass swap comes from the Mickey Thompson website, which has a tech order on the care of MT ET tires.

noelvm

 

If you haven't changed to a higher stall converter the best 60' will be had by just stomping it from idle off the line. Has something to do with flashing the converter when you torque it. Doesn't hurt to unhook the swaybar also.

 

4D THNDR I disagree.

1. Launching at idle, there is slack in the drivetrain that must be taken out before you will go forward. This takes time. Alos the rear end must spool up which also takes time.

2. Launching at idle will slam the rear end from the slack and produce more tire spin than if you power brake.

3. Launching at idle will produce more stress on the drivetrain than launching at power brake.

4. Stock torque converter is fine for power braking unless you are into pushing the envelope to the max. I have seen several power brake to 2000 with the stock converter. All it does most of the time is spin the tires more.

Your 60' times will be more consistant with a power brake launch of between 1000 and 1200.

noelvm

 

Hey Novelm just so you know when the truck is in drive all the slack is taken out of the drive train. Why do you think when you let off the brake it actually roles forward. There is no slack once the vehicle is in drive. Flashing the stock converter would not be much better cause there is only so much stall the stock converter has. Power braking the converter for a long period of time also builds up excess heat. Bad for the trans. Every track is different so the best thing to do is just practice all different launches. This is why at every race the have at least 3 qualifying rounds to dial in the track. Good luck and Novelm do a search on drive train.

 

True being in drive does take out some of the slack, but not the spool up slack of the springs and rear end. Unless you have cal tracs. Torque from power braking will take the spring slack out but not so at idle.
noelvm

 

Rusty

If you use some to the info you found in the search and ask a pointed question, or ask for clarification the search police are less likely to turn on the gumballs and pull you over... LOL

If for example you had asked "Is everybody using MTs 26x11.5R16 ? Or are thier bigger tires out there ? " That might have fooled the SPolice

Doug