Lets get to bottom of Piston Slap. Is it oil, filter or what?
Some suggestions to narrow this down.
Well....what do you'll think of this....
1. Lets get one of the folks here that has a 01 L that HAS NOT changed oil yet (first time change).
2. If possible, and there are nearby fellow L owners (2 or more),
all go to observe this FIRST oil change (more people together notice more differences and variations)....at least they can listen from different angles to were this "knocking" sound is originating.
...I wonder if the engine being hot or cold effects anything at all.
If we try this it may help diagnose the EFFECT of the oil change.
3. Furthermore, one of us needs to have their factory oil analysed
just to make sure that their are not "unknown" oil modifiers in this
factory oil.
1. Lets get one of the folks here that has a 01 L that HAS NOT changed oil yet (first time change).
2. If possible, and there are nearby fellow L owners (2 or more),
all go to observe this FIRST oil change (more people together notice more differences and variations)....at least they can listen from different angles to were this "knocking" sound is originating.
...I wonder if the engine being hot or cold effects anything at all.
If we try this it may help diagnose the EFFECT of the oil change.
3. Furthermore, one of us needs to have their factory oil analysed
just to make sure that their are not "unknown" oil modifiers in this
factory oil.
to gforce:
Well said statement. This first oil change may really be PREMATURE at 500 to 1200 miles (just a thought)...mayby the
engine needs more wear time. Gforce....This 1st oil change may
be "scuffing" the internals from TOO DRY of a first start. My engine
was very quiet until the first change...seems to have settled almost back to normal now.
Well said statement. This first oil change may really be PREMATURE at 500 to 1200 miles (just a thought)...mayby the
engine needs more wear time. Gforce....This 1st oil change may
be "scuffing" the internals from TOO DRY of a first start. My engine
was very quiet until the first change...seems to have settled almost back to normal now.
Thanks, Georgia_Moon for the compliment. I dunno about all this. It still strikes me as odd that about 50% have a "banger" and 50% don't. Some have went WOT off the lot and some have babied it. It just has no rhyme or reason that I can think of other than maybe the machining at the engine assembly plant just isn't closely monitored. What really sucks is that I have honestly tried to take care of this truck because I love it. Yet if it pukes a cylinder, (BRAAAAAPPPP noise that REALLY scares me) I'm out in the cold. I've got really mean, nasty, stupid dealers around here that would coat their underpants at the thought of voiding my warranty. I love this truck, but some days I want my Corvette back.
Jim
Jim
I had my first oil change by the dealer at 800 miles. It was started within 15 minutes of my arrival. I am lucky, as the motor doesn't have any unusual noise.
The build date on the engine tag is 04/11/01. ( Also my birthday)
I drive it like I stole it... Most of the time
Maybe we should collect the engine build dates of those with and without issues and compare?
Just my .02
David
The build date on the engine tag is 04/11/01. ( Also my birthday)
I drive it like I stole it... Most of the time
Maybe we should collect the engine build dates of those with and without issues and compare?
Just my .02
David
Just a thought
Has anyone tried using a pre-luber to prime the motor with oil before start up ..I saw some interesting info on www.preluber.com, the unit looks a little pricey but I'll bet a pump etcc. could be bought from a place like Graingers and and fabbed for alot less
Paul
Has anyone tried using a pre-luber to prime the motor with oil before start up ..I saw some interesting info on www.preluber.com, the unit looks a little pricey but I'll bet a pump etcc. could be bought from a place like Graingers and and fabbed for alot less
Paul
Well, I have the noise!!! You will not hear it at idle. you have to be at around 3,000rpms when the truck shifts from 1-2 and you can really hear it then. It sounds like all the valves knocking at the same time for the shift.
I do not think it has anything to do with oil. I changed my oil at 3,000. I had the NOISE way before my first oil change.
I think it has a lot to do with when the engine was built.
my build date is 5/7/00
I have 11,800 mile on her now and have had no sign of power loss at all.
I was told that the original problem of the piston slap problem was that the teflon coating around the piston skirt wears off on the thrust side of the piston and creates this knocking sound at high rpm right before shift change. I was also told the the bore was increased to compensate for the coating on the skirt.
I am also aware that if you take the problem to Ford, they will just replace the engine and are instructed to send the engine to SVT.
Now my question is, is the problem fixed on the new engines?
I do not think it has anything to do with oil. I changed my oil at 3,000. I had the NOISE way before my first oil change.
I think it has a lot to do with when the engine was built.
my build date is 5/7/00
I have 11,800 mile on her now and have had no sign of power loss at all.
I was told that the original problem of the piston slap problem was that the teflon coating around the piston skirt wears off on the thrust side of the piston and creates this knocking sound at high rpm right before shift change. I was also told the the bore was increased to compensate for the coating on the skirt.
I am also aware that if you take the problem to Ford, they will just replace the engine and are instructed to send the engine to SVT.
Now my question is, is the problem fixed on the new engines?
Last edited by 2_FAST4U; Sep 7, 2001 at 02:38 AM.
I'm okay on my end w/ my '01. I changed my oil at 3k miles to Mobil 1 5w-30 (damnit, they were out of 0w-30). I should have asked to see the old oil to see if I could find any teflon specs in it. I never saw any on my dipstick...did anyone else?
?, why do mechanics start the vehicle, shut if off, and then immediately check to see if the dipstick reads normal oil level? I have told the jerkies time and time again it takes a set # of quarts (depending on what vehicle I have in at the time) and they still want to check it like I just stated. Normally everytime they run to grab another quart to top it off and I have to yell at the idiots to stop them from doing so.
Ummm, H E L L O ??? Have you ever thought that the oil hasn't drained back down enough yet?
BfB
?, why do mechanics start the vehicle, shut if off, and then immediately check to see if the dipstick reads normal oil level? I have told the jerkies time and time again it takes a set # of quarts (depending on what vehicle I have in at the time) and they still want to check it like I just stated. Normally everytime they run to grab another quart to top it off and I have to yell at the idiots to stop them from doing so.
Ummm, H E L L O ??? Have you ever thought that the oil hasn't drained back down enough yet?
BfB
no flames.....no problem...just good discussions
I knew some guys would balk at my 'cold oil change'. that's good because we all 'learn' when there are differences of opinion. As my vehicles get older/more mileage, I drain them 'hot' because I use an eng. flush(I know, some won't agree with this too) to help 'clean' out any varnish/carbon deposits(I know--the syn. oil keeps these to a minimum anyway).
I changed my L's factory-filled oil at 1,000 miles--put in motorcraft 5w20 and their filter. I drove(from purchase time) it moderately 'hard'--ocassional WOT bursts--varied the hwy speeds--started the eng.(when cold) and move immediately--at low speed--turn the O/D off, so rpms stay 'up'(1,500-1,700) as I drive thru the sub/div'n to work(I remember reading yrs. ago that we should keep the rpms 'up'--not too 'high'--so that the oil reaches all areas of the eng.--apparently, not all areas are under pressure but are oiled by wiping/slinging) and this also keeps the eng. from 'lugging'(bad). After about 5 mins. of 'O/D off', I turn onto hwy 41, and all bets are off--speed-wise. I ran the Ford oil until 3,998 miles rolled around and then put in Royal Purple syn. #11(their 5w20 racing oil) and a K&N filter. Put new R/P oil/filter in again at 8,329 miles and plan to continue doing this every 4-5,000 miles. I know some of you change it even more often--I agree--I don't think you can change it too often.
Btw, no knock/noise and my eng. was built on 3/28/01(at least that's when the v/c sticker says), a Wednesday. Should we look to see what day of the wk. our engs. were built? Remember: Mondays and Fridays are 'bad'? Love this forum!!!
Dan
I changed my L's factory-filled oil at 1,000 miles--put in motorcraft 5w20 and their filter. I drove(from purchase time) it moderately 'hard'--ocassional WOT bursts--varied the hwy speeds--started the eng.(when cold) and move immediately--at low speed--turn the O/D off, so rpms stay 'up'(1,500-1,700) as I drive thru the sub/div'n to work(I remember reading yrs. ago that we should keep the rpms 'up'--not too 'high'--so that the oil reaches all areas of the eng.--apparently, not all areas are under pressure but are oiled by wiping/slinging) and this also keeps the eng. from 'lugging'(bad). After about 5 mins. of 'O/D off', I turn onto hwy 41, and all bets are off--speed-wise. I ran the Ford oil until 3,998 miles rolled around and then put in Royal Purple syn. #11(their 5w20 racing oil) and a K&N filter. Put new R/P oil/filter in again at 8,329 miles and plan to continue doing this every 4-5,000 miles. I know some of you change it even more often--I agree--I don't think you can change it too often.
Btw, no knock/noise and my eng. was built on 3/28/01(at least that's when the v/c sticker says), a Wednesday. Should we look to see what day of the wk. our engs. were built? Remember: Mondays and Fridays are 'bad'? Love this forum!!!
Dan
Mine was built on 5-4-01 according to the sticker which is a Friday. The best engines are built Friday morning especially if it's a pay day 
/me crosses fingers he didn't get a 4:45 pm engine

/me crosses fingers he didn't get a 4:45 pm engine
Originally posted by BfB
I'm okay on my end w/ my '01. I changed my oil at 3k miles to Mobil 1 5w-30 (damnit, they were out of 0w-30). I should have asked to see the old oil to see if I could find any teflon specs in it. I never saw any on my dipstick...did anyone else?
?, why do mechanics start the vehicle, shut if off, and then immediately check to see if the dipstick reads normal oil level? I have told the jerkies time and time again it takes a set # of quarts (depending on what vehicle I have in at the time) and they still want to check it like I just stated. Normally everytime they run to grab another quart to top it off and I have to yell at the idiots to stop them from doing so.
Ummm, H E L L O ??? Have you ever thought that the oil hasn't drained back down enough yet?
BfB
I'm okay on my end w/ my '01. I changed my oil at 3k miles to Mobil 1 5w-30 (damnit, they were out of 0w-30). I should have asked to see the old oil to see if I could find any teflon specs in it. I never saw any on my dipstick...did anyone else?
?, why do mechanics start the vehicle, shut if off, and then immediately check to see if the dipstick reads normal oil level? I have told the jerkies time and time again it takes a set # of quarts (depending on what vehicle I have in at the time) and they still want to check it like I just stated. Normally everytime they run to grab another quart to top it off and I have to yell at the idiots to stop them from doing so.
Ummm, H E L L O ??? Have you ever thought that the oil hasn't drained back down enough yet?
BfB
I really love to see when people start up an engine after an oil change and rev it to 5000 rpm. You can literally hear the bearings screaming for thier lives as if they are burning in hell.
I just turned 22,500 miles on my '00 Bolt. I have let the dealership change my oil except for my last oil change. I used Mobil 1 5W30 and a Motorcraft oil filter. I here a chatter (a couple of seconds) upon first start of the day and it disappears. I believe that this is due to the fact that my driveway is pitched and the oil has drained back into the sump and the oil level is at an angle. I don't have an intercooler leak (yet, got the digits crossed) and I usually hit 100-125 m.p.h. on the way to work (gotta love Rt. 495, by the river, going around Wilmington and a Jersey barrier to prohibit officers from making a u-turn!). Although, when I am in a tunnel or an area with parked cars (anything that can reflect sound) my exhaust (stock) makes a "brapping" sound. Is that normal?
Been real busy not had chance to get back to board.
Have read these post and some have great ideas.
Plan to start a new post with a ?? on disableing the fuel shutoff so the starter turns the motor over to bring up oil before it just starts up and revs up to 2000 like it seens to do. Sal said this high rev could not be programed out but i do know that there is a switch to shut off fuel in the event of accident. Maybe this would help.
Have read these post and some have great ideas.
Plan to start a new post with a ?? on disableing the fuel shutoff so the starter turns the motor over to bring up oil before it just starts up and revs up to 2000 like it seens to do. Sal said this high rev could not be programed out but i do know that there is a switch to shut off fuel in the event of accident. Maybe this would help.


