no special tools required. I did not support the control arms. I just let them hang. Pull out one factory bolts, one at a time and replace it with the cam bolt. I was able to pull the factory bolts out with just my fingers and put in the new ones in the same fashion. Follow the instructions with the cam bolt kits and mark the control arms as far as their locations to the frame. That way when you lock down the cam bolts your alignment won't be too far off till you get the truck to the dealer for the alignment.:o

 

Thanks, one last question I promise. So now I have replaced the upper bolts with cam bolts. From here can I weld the lower control arms or should I have it aligned first? I am still a bit fuzzy on the aligning before weld as it seems if the lower control arm moves after the alignment but prior to welding I am still out of alignment before welding.

B

 

Nothing personal doubleup, but that gob of metal you put on your lower A-frame ISN'T WELDING!

 

Hey Gator, no offense taken because that is not my truck. Someone else posted that pic to show me how they welded their washers.

 

The only weld you need to make is on the rear washer of the driver's side control arm, nowhere else. Do that first, before you have it aligned...:o

 

No offense taken. I'm a *****ty welder at best.
I should have taken it somewhere and just had them put a little tack weld or something. I got a little carried away with my new mig welder. Live and learn. I do recommend welding it though. I have never had a clunk problem, probably never will and I have about 13500 miles on it. If for some reason I need to get it aligned I'll grid that weld off.

 

I had the same clunk at about 3000 miles. The dealer fixed it. So far so good at 6000 miles. Knock on wood. If it comes back, I'll probably go with a star washer or get some lock washer in there.

 

Hey brother, you are right, pratice makes perfect. But don't pratice on the suspension of your truck. I just make a living welding pipe at Mercks money machine It was just a little close to home LOL

 

The best thing to do is weld the washers to the frame. It's really easy, and a local exhaust shop can do it in about 10 minutes. On my trucks I just run a 1/2" bead on both sides of the washer. You should do the front and rear washers on the rear lower control arm bolt. You can see the side to side movement in the frame wax, so if your bolt is not centered, just tap it in the needed direction with a small hammer. Clean the frame around the washer, and weld it in place. Do the alignment AFTER welding the washer. If you don't want to weld, get some of Herbs washers.

 

Well if I get the clunk I know who I'm coming to to weld it then.

 

I just got out from under my truck. The clunk had returned after about 25K miles of beaten LA roads.

I just loosened the nut and backed out the bolt a little. I cleaned the oil off the frame and peened the frame and washer with a punch. Since the bolt was dry and kind of rusty, I lubed the face of the washer that contacts the bolt head, and the threads with ARP assembly lube. This will allow an accurate torque to be applied to the bolt (rusty threads don't). I cranked it on in to 140 ft. lbs, and tried to make it clunk. So car, so good.