Dyno #'s on '01 L (silver)...
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From: San Diego
Dyno #'s on '01 L (silver)...
Hello L owners,
Below are the dyno #'s from Thursday at 2:00 pm on my bone stock '01 L (silver), except for 1 oil change and 1700 miles on the ticker;
ambient air temp= 85 degrees
absolute barometric pressure= 29.87 in. Hg.
relative humidity= 39.7%
max HP= 332rwhp @ 4,800rpm
max TQ= 422rwtq @ 3,700rpm
BTW, this was my baseline power before bolting on the following mod's this weekend:
PSP air filter kit
PSP lower pulley
PSP 4-way chip
Babolt's Billet single blade TB
I will redyno in a week after these bolt on's and measure the improvement on a day with similar weather conditions as the weather has been fairly consistent here in San Diego.
Below are the dyno #'s from Thursday at 2:00 pm on my bone stock '01 L (silver), except for 1 oil change and 1700 miles on the ticker;
ambient air temp= 85 degrees
absolute barometric pressure= 29.87 in. Hg.
relative humidity= 39.7%
max HP= 332rwhp @ 4,800rpm
max TQ= 422rwtq @ 3,700rpm
BTW, this was my baseline power before bolting on the following mod's this weekend:
PSP air filter kit
PSP lower pulley
PSP 4-way chip
Babolt's Billet single blade TB
I will redyno in a week after these bolt on's and measure the improvement on a day with similar weather conditions as the weather has been fairly consistent here in San Diego.
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From: Fl/Tenn
Those #'s seem pretty good. I dynoed my 2000 L when it was stock, and it only put down a pathetic 309 rwhp 
. Of course, the dyno operator dynoed the truck in 2nd gear w/ the AC on...and didn't let it cool down from the traffic I'd been in. 
I'll dyno next week w/ JL air kit, 3# pulley, diablo chip, 90mm MAF, and NGK plugs.
. Of course, the dyno operator dynoed the truck in 2nd gear w/ the AC on...and didn't let it cool down from the traffic I'd been in. I'll dyno next week w/ JL air kit, 3# pulley, diablo chip, 90mm MAF, and NGK plugs.
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From: San Diego
rscoleman,
You may have stood to gain a few more w/out the A/C and letting the engine temp cool down a bit. So, not bad considering for stock #'s! Please post your results after the 'goods' are on!
Just FYI, the dyno operator let me in on the figures his new(200 miles) 2001 L made; 331rwhp/ ?rwtq. He was curious as was myself of the possible gains or differences after breakin mileage. Well, my '01 made 332rwhp (only 1 more hp) than his 200 mile '01 L. Of course, we don't know what mine produced at his early mileage and what his will produce at my current mileage (1700 miles) until that time comes. So, for comparison sake, not enough data for accurate comparison. Nonetheless, it was interesting to see.
You may have stood to gain a few more w/out the A/C and letting the engine temp cool down a bit. So, not bad considering for stock #'s! Please post your results after the 'goods' are on!
Just FYI, the dyno operator let me in on the figures his new(200 miles) 2001 L made; 331rwhp/ ?rwtq. He was curious as was myself of the possible gains or differences after breakin mileage. Well, my '01 made 332rwhp (only 1 more hp) than his 200 mile '01 L. Of course, we don't know what mine produced at his early mileage and what his will produce at my current mileage (1700 miles) until that time comes. So, for comparison sake, not enough data for accurate comparison. Nonetheless, it was interesting to see.
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From: Mobile, AL, USA
Originally posted by rscoleman
Of course, the dyno operator dynoed the truck in 2nd gear w/ the AC on
Of course, the dyno operator dynoed the truck in 2nd gear w/ the AC on
The Dynojet chassis dynamometer is an inertia type chassis dynamometer. This means that it calculates horsepower and torque based on how quickly a given inertia - in this case, a set of rolls of given mass and dimensions - is accelerated. The length of time it takes to accelerate from one rpm level to the next is the sweep time and the rate that you accelerate from one rpm to the next is the sweep speed or sweep rate.
Because it takes more power to accelerate the mass faster, you will see lower horsepower figures when a car is tested in a lower gear (1st gear for example) then when it is tested in a higher gear (3rd gear for example). This is because at higher speeds and higher gears, it take longer to accelerate from one rpm level to another (for example, 2000 rpm to 6000 rpm). This remains true until the gains in horsepower from increased sweep time are offset by the increased frictional losses of the transmission, differential and tires.
As speeds increase, the frictional losses in the transmission, differential and tires increase. The higher the horsepower of the car, the faster it will accelerate the rolls and the higher the speed (and therefore the higher the gear) will need to be to get the sweep time long enough to give an accurate reading.
Because the Dynojet chassis dynamometer is an inertia type chassis dynamometer it does not allow you to perform fixed rpm or step type horsepower tests - you can not hold the vehicle at a given rpm or speed and check the horsepower level. Despite this limitation, the inertia type dynamometers give you a very accurate measurement of what the vehicle sees in real world situations.
An inertia type dynamometer will show the effects of reduced driveline inertia (such as lightweight flywheels, driveshafts and wheels) while a steady state test does not show these improvements.
Because it takes more power to accelerate the mass faster, you will see lower horsepower figures when a car is tested in a lower gear (1st gear for example) then when it is tested in a higher gear (3rd gear for example). This is because at higher speeds and higher gears, it take longer to accelerate from one rpm level to another (for example, 2000 rpm to 6000 rpm). This remains true until the gains in horsepower from increased sweep time are offset by the increased frictional losses of the transmission, differential and tires.
As speeds increase, the frictional losses in the transmission, differential and tires increase. The higher the horsepower of the car, the faster it will accelerate the rolls and the higher the speed (and therefore the higher the gear) will need to be to get the sweep time long enough to give an accurate reading.
Because the Dynojet chassis dynamometer is an inertia type chassis dynamometer it does not allow you to perform fixed rpm or step type horsepower tests - you can not hold the vehicle at a given rpm or speed and check the horsepower level. Despite this limitation, the inertia type dynamometers give you a very accurate measurement of what the vehicle sees in real world situations.
An inertia type dynamometer will show the effects of reduced driveline inertia (such as lightweight flywheels, driveshafts and wheels) while a steady state test does not show these improvements.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/shoptalk/march96.htm
BfB
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: In a House, USA
My 01 pulled 355+ and 420 ft/lbs (correted on a dynojet). There were 800 miles on the clock when I did it.
I don't want to be a buummer, but, your #'s are a little low for and 01. Typically an 01 will be in the 340-350 range.
Alot can be explained by temps and the actual dyno operator. Just keep things consistent when comparting mods.
I don't want to be a buummer, but, your #'s are a little low for and 01. Typically an 01 will be in the 340-350 range.
Alot can be explained by temps and the actual dyno operator. Just keep things consistent when comparting mods.
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From: Palm Coast, FL
Rscoleman, having the A/C on shouldn't affect power, as the PCM will turn off the compressor at WOT. However, the extra heat given off by the condensor will be absorbed by the radiator which will raise your ECT temp, so that doesn't help. As for the 2nd gear pull, that WILL give you lower numbers. It is not uncommon to do 2nd gear pulls, but they are mostly used for tuning, as on some vehicles it is easier to tune in 2nd gear because of how the graph reads.
The best way to dyno any vehicle is in direct drive. Direct drive is when there are no internal gear changes taking place, and the input shaft and output shaft are spinning the same rate. On our trucks, direct drive occurs in 3rd gear, with the converter locked up. At that time, the flywheel speed should be equal to the driveshaft speed. It won't be perfect, because you will have "some" lock up slip, but it should be very close to true direct drive.
Of all the 01s I've dynoed, most of them baseline at about 340rwhp. I've done some that were as low as 330, and some that were as high as 347.
The best way to dyno any vehicle is in direct drive. Direct drive is when there are no internal gear changes taking place, and the input shaft and output shaft are spinning the same rate. On our trucks, direct drive occurs in 3rd gear, with the converter locked up. At that time, the flywheel speed should be equal to the driveshaft speed. It won't be perfect, because you will have "some" lock up slip, but it should be very close to true direct drive.
Of all the 01s I've dynoed, most of them baseline at about 340rwhp. I've done some that were as low as 330, and some that were as high as 347.
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From: San Diego
NeedFourSpeed,
You must have the highest HP #'s for a stock '01L. Just curious, what color is it? LOL. Seriously, I would be very happy with those numbers!
I finished bolting on all of my mods listed above and WOW! She sure screams now. It's time to install an aftermarket boost gauge, because all I see is black zone.
You must have the highest HP #'s for a stock '01L. Just curious, what color is it? LOL. Seriously, I would be very happy with those numbers!
I finished bolting on all of my mods listed above and WOW! She sure screams now. It's time to install an aftermarket boost gauge, because all I see is black zone.
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From: McKinney, TX, USA
A few of us hit the dyno yesterday. My '01 has a little over 5000 miles on it and I got 346.8HP and 408ft-lb torque. A buddy of mine has only about 250 miles on his and made around 349HP and about 408ft-lb torque (or somewhere around there). It looks lik break-in wasn't much of a factor, but we were both average for the '01s.
Tom
Tom