I am buying a 93 Lighting ,and second gear is about gone.I am going to rebuild it my self.I have rebuild some C6' s before , but never an E4OD. Does anyone have an tips they can give me like what special tools I will need or how I should beef it up.
The truck has a paxton, a hot cam, fully worked heads 30# injectors,Pro-m meter and mass air conversion.

Thanks ,Johnny

 

You'll need a spring compressor for the OD snap ring, a clutch dropper is nice to get the Foward/direct clutch pack in but I can do it without one. The Coast clutch is pretty easy to put in "freehand". From the center support down it's pretty much the same as a C-6, the valve bodies are completely different but straightforward for all that. I can't drop in a convertor freehand to save my life, I have big hands, but most people can. The OPS snap ring is a bear to get without a good tool, it's availible from SnapOn, I'll get the part number I think it runs about $20.
Good luck with the rebuild, if you need any help I'll be happy to be a resource for you.

Hope this helps,

G

 

There is one major change you'll need to do to the 93 trans. In 95, Ford added a bearing support on the O/D shaft, which supports all the internals of thr tranny. Not having this support is the main cause of failure on the 93-94 units. You will need some different parts, but your 93 unit can be upgraded. Most tranny shops should be able to supply you with what you need.

 

Thanks Guys !
I will problely be asking for your help when i get into it .
The funny thing is this truck has 130,000 miles on it. the trans has never been out. It has a chip in it and some kind of shift kit.It has had the paxton for about 80,000 miles,and the curent set up about 50,000 miles. I dont khow how it lasted this long!
Do you think the vavle body and shift kit should be okay?
It wont shiftout of low unless you put it into drive then shift down to second once you get going ,and then shift back to drive.

Thanks, Johnny

 

I don't know much about the internals, just wanted to say, I just had mine rebuilt, and if you can do it yourself, definitely do it! It was about $2K for mine, although they did put the latest and greatest parts in it. ( Supposedly, Ford did upgrades to it all the way up to 1996?)
This is going into a 92 Full size Bronco with a 351 in it.
Mine actually had teeth sheared off the small gears on the main planetary!!! Yikes!
I have been told, and have read, these Transmissions are pretty stout, and bullet proof, especially if they are"built".
They are just VERY heavy!!
Another place to check on info on these is Level10, alot of guys on the Gen 1 board over at NLOC have used him for tranny work...

Good luck!!

 

are you sure? I didn't think Snap-On had any tools for as little as $20! hehehehe

Dan

 

$2000 for a 4R100? WOW, a new on only costs about $1500 and I'll custom build you one from about $1,000 to Whatever depending on what you want. I have one now that I'm startinga at 1,000 for and to build it pretty tricked for a lightning would run about $1300, (this is a Gen 1 box, but I can modify it for a Gen 2)

Man.
As far as the shift kit goes, go for it, but the Gen 1's have differnt castings from the Gen 2 and it'll have to be cuastom built, (not a problem, just that you need to know that)

Thanks,

G

 

Hey Factory_Tech
Where should I buy the rebuild kit and other parts from?
What do you think the main problem is . It is still driven on long trips(200 to 300 miles).I just want to khow what to look for!
What does the power pack do ,and what happens when it is bad?
Where can I get a manual? What should I use for parts cleaner?
I do have an E40D from a 95 f150 351 with 5000 miles on it ! Will it work if i put a shift kit in it or maybe the whole vavle body from the L?

 

I get my rebuild kits from Smyth Automotive, which I think is local, but the standard rebuild kit is pretty easy to find. A main control from a Gen 2 L won't work, the wormtrail is different, the Accumulator is also different. The Solenoid body is very different, the connectors to the electronics are not compatible. I can make you a shift kit, but make sure to mention to Sal when you order it that you're talking about a pre-99 model year, I have to use a different casting. Get the Center Support Sal mentioned wiht the ball bearing, it was a major upgrade but completely compatible. I would also switch teh Coast clutch and low/reverse OWC to the new models, the weight saving is pretty big and the new ones hold up better. You're kind of limited in that the old case doesn't have TSS holes on it, so it won't work with the new EEC, but some of the cases have the boss for the TSS and a good machine shop can fix that. Pre-98.5 have different wormtrails and you need to match all the valve bodies to that case. Just make sure when you buyy parts to give the proper year of the case when you buy any "top" parts (valve bodies) the clutches are all interchangeable.

G

 

Oh, and to clean parts, I use good 'ol kerosene. just let everything drip dry before re-assembly.

 

Hey Factory_Tech
It's a 93 L we are talking about .I was wondering about useing a 95 reguler f150 E4od and changing the vavle body from the 93 L.
Thanks, Johnny

 

It'll need some internal upgrades. A stock E4OD in a Lightning prolly wouldn't last too long.

G

 

I was just wondering because I haven't found a Lightning specific rebuild kit yet. Most just say all E4OD. I am alittle worried that it may be some thing simple like a bad solenoid or a sticking vavle.
Thanks, Johnny

 

On most years (maybe all, I just can't remember) the Main Control valve body is the same for all except the PTO models, the valve body that is unique to the Lightning is the accumulator, where shift tuning is controlled. The main control is mostly concerned with shift selection. Anyhow, for a given year it's a safe bet that the main control froma regular F-150 box is the same one that's on the L in that year. From year to year they do change however, someties they have a different valve or spring here or there. I've never been to sure what they were trying to change on some years, I assume it's a reliability issue. And also, there are different wormtrails in different years, so you for the most part should change a valve body from one year to another.

G