I recently got the dreaded lean bank 1-2 codes. I was busy so I took my truck into the dealership (stealership) to have them fix it. First of all, I knew it was either the MAS or a bad PCV. They called with a bad PCV valve. No biggy. The problem was Ford calls for a complete supercharger pull to replace the PCV, a $800 job for a $40 part, WTF. Let me asure you that you do not have to pull the S/C for a PCV replacement. If you are having these codes a quick way to check for PCV leak is to spray carb cleaner and see if you get a engine rev, just trying to help out

 

Actually, to replace the PCV that is the correct procedure because the rubber hoses in the PCV line are also bad, especially the one that hooks up to the center rear of the intake manifold which is is the most common leak point.

There are very few people that can get their hands behind the blower and replace this hose, hell, I could hardly do it until I took the manifold off.

 

Yeah you're right it's not easy, but it is possible to do. I myself couldn't reach it but as I was told "If you have gumby arms you can"........anyway, it's probably best to remove the upper to make sure you replace all the needed parts.

 

sweet! good to know. I was having the same codes come up from my tuner. It has been a week now and the engine light has not come back on. (knock on wood) I dont know if its because its getting cooler or because i ran some Seafoam through it. I know the i/c should get a cleaning cause i have not done it and the buddy that i bought it from did not do it. I just dont want to take it apart and mess something up and be F**ked. so i have thought about just taking it to the stealership and have them do it. I just know it is going to cost a crapload!

 

Can you get the gaskets/bolts thru stealership needed for R2 the blower/intercooler?

 

Just be careful during removal and install, the gaskets are reusable. The bolts are supposed to be TTY (torque to yield) but I have used mine several times, since they are steel and torque into aluminum, the holes will give it up first.

Be careful during removal and use some penetrating oil to loosen any corrosion. When reassembling, use anti-seize compound on the threads so they will come out without galling the second time around.

Take it slow and easy, take pictures or make notes of where everything goes especially vacuum hose routing and you will be golden.

While you are in there, check the vacuum hose at the lowest rear point on the intake manifold, good time to change it and avoid the lean codes, new plugs would be a bonus since you have easier access.

Good luck.