What are the things that can tiger the boost control valve to relieve boost? Is this thing involved in the "torque reduction"?

Andy

 

ttt

[This message has been edited by Undy (edited 06-21-2001).]

 

Excessive rpms and a couple other things.

The best way to stop it from dumping with out setting a code is as follows:
Take the pink vacuum line that goes into the boost control valve out of the boot that plugs into the side of the valve. Then tee it into the boost line that goes to the boost gauge thru the fire wall (1/8" vinyl tubing). You can buy a vacuum tee and short piece of 3/16" vacuum line. Make sure you plug the hole in the boot where you pulled the pink vacuum line from and plug it back into the valve. You'll now never dump your boost no matter how hard she shifts at any rpm!

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2001L, red, born 2/6 and arrived 2/28!!!
JDM chip
crankcase filter
PSP lower blower pulley
12" Big Mouth filter
Magnaflow
Wet Okoles
Bedrug
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Let the mods begin....


1969 Vette coupe, 496ci stroker big block, aluminum heads, 4340 crank & H-beam rods, JE 10.8 pistons, roller everything, McLeod dual disk clutch w/ aluminum flywheel, Richmond 6 spd, 3" dual exhaust, 300hp nitrous fogger, much, much more.
LS1 eater.. big time!!

1985 FoToLet, work truck, 85 Toyota 4x4 (started as), Reading bed, ladder racks, 8" lift, 33 x 12.5's, Vette 350 4 bolt motor, Hooker Super Comp headers, Ford 9" rear, Toyota front diff, turbo 350 coupled to a Toyota transfer case, 410 gears, a/c & power steering. f-a-a-s-t A/C & heat calls..... my specialty.

web page: http://personal.picusnet.com/undy

 

Here is a picture of the boost mod that Undy is talking about.



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http://donf150.tripod.com/Welcome/id6.html

13.11 @ 104MPH

 

Don C,

I see you're already a little "teed off" over it. Did Jim fix you up on the mod too?

 

Man you better watch for the animal society when you TIGER that boost control

 

HEHE I am ROTFL I have been teed off for two months now, and ya Jim fixed it up for me.

 

See the plugin at the top left with the green and red wire in it? Just unplug that and the boost will never go away. No signal from pcm and no more boost valve opening, EVER. You can do a 6500 RPM burnout and still not lose boost at the line.
Forget all that plumbimg, just disconnect it.

 

Why do people insist on taking the vacuum off the by pass? That's the worst thing you can do. By doing that, you are making the by pass stay 100% closed all the time. The by pass is meant to be open when vacuum is present, which is anytime you are not in boost. That is normally about 90% of the time you are driving. By keeping it closed all the time, you are not allowing excess air to vent and that creates extra heat, at idle and cruise. Why would you want all that extra heat? I've posted about this several times, but still poeple insist on doing it. Just unplug the solenoid at the track, or leave it disconnected as you like. It will not set a light, just a code, that is erased by disconnecting the battery.

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The sound that I keep hearing sounds similar to a waist gate on a turbo car. It seems to happen if you are backing out of the gas right before the shift. Just wondering if those valves are capible of making that sound.

Andy

 

Wait, so, ultimately, is it bad to disconnect the boost soleniod?????

 

awhittle
I think the sound you a hearing is just the blower belt slipping. That is if the sound your reffering to sounds like a high pitched chirp or squeal. And by the way waste gates don't make that sound, boost bypass valves vented to atmosphere do.
Dale

 

Sal,

If you leave it unplugged all the time then won't it build up heat the same way as rerouting the vacuum lines??? I need a lil' vacuum relief on the street too! On a real hard 1 to 2 shift she'll dump boost all the way through the gears until it has time to reset.

------------------
2001L, red, born 2/6 and arrived 2/28!!!
JDM chip
crankcase filter
PSP lower blower pulley
12" Big Mouth filter
Magnaflow
Wet Okoles
Bedrug
Pro-Sport Lid
Let the mods begin....


1969 Vette coupe, 496ci stroker big block, aluminum heads, 4340 crank & H-beam rods, JE 10.8 pistons, roller everything, McLeod dual disk clutch w/ aluminum flywheel, Richmond 6 spd, 3" dual exhaust, 300hp nitrous fogger, much, much more.
LS1 eater.. big time!!

1985 FoToLet, work truck, 85 Toyota 4x4 (started as), Reading bed, ladder racks, 8" lift, 33 x 12.5's, Vette 350 4 bolt motor, Hooker Super Comp headers, Ford 9" rear, Toyota front diff, turbo 350 coupled to a Toyota transfer case, 410 gears, a/c & power steering. f-a-a-s-t A/C & heat calls..... my specialty.

web page: http://personal.picusnet.com/undy

 

Incase you dont know where the boost soleniod is I took Don C's pic and marked the connector for it.

 

Just unplug it when you want to make sure you don't lose boost. Plug it back in for long trips.

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99 Lightning- JL equipped! JL Ram Air, JL Daiblo Chip,90mm MAF,JL Power Cooler, Level 10 shift kit,PSP Lower pulley, Single Blade T/B, Bassani exhaust, NGK's. 12.42 at 109.6..Full trim and stock convertor, MT Street ET's.
New times w/ JL converter coming soon!