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Anyone break a stock driveshaft

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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 07:03 PM
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alphadoggy's Avatar
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From: Ventura, CA, USA
Question Anyone break a stock driveshaft

in their '99 or '00 truck? I received a new aluminum shaft today, and it is both lightweight and pretty, but after talking to Mark Chuhalof I don't think I am going to install it. Past history suggests that a 4" aluminum shaft is not going to last very long under the abuse that these trucks dish out, especially when modified. I think I will keep the aluminum shaft as an emergency spare, and either keep the stock 0.65 shaft in the truck, or have Mark build me an 0.83 shaft that will assuredly handle the power. But if the oem shafts are not breaking, why waste $350 on a bullet proof replacement?

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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 08:02 PM
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I plan to stick with the OEM shaft from here on out. Its reliable, and is much stronger than the 5" or 4.5" shafts out there...which are all simply 01' shafts to begin with.
I wish I never wasted the money on it, I agree it looks good. And I know axle wind up caused it to BLOW for me...but it would have happened sooner or later IMO The shaft was showing signs of stress from all the TORQUE.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2001 | 09:55 PM
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Spiro-

I remember reading in a previous post that you broke your aftermarket driveshaft. What type did you have?? I am looking at replacing mine, and I want to make sure that I don't make the same mistake that you did.

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 01:20 AM
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I had the 4.5 inch 2001 Lightning Aluminum shaft, direct from the FORD dealer
 
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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 08:25 AM
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JL (Johnny Lightning) just broke a 2001 OEM Lightning driveshaft last Wed. night at the track.

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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 09:11 AM
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Here's whats happening.....
For all you 99/00 owners with the new 01 driveshaft installed, and the 01 owners.
When you launch the truck there is enough twist in the differental for the pinion to flex downware enough that the U-Joint housings are hitting. When MYREDTOY took his 01 driveshaft off we could see where its hitting and flattening out the u-joint mounts enough to weaken the mount and crack it. Get under the truck and examine the u-joint mounts on the driveshaft at the pinion and if yours is hitting it will be very visiable.
If its not hitting you either have traction bars, or have clamped your leaf springs together to stop the twisting.
OR you don't have enough power to worry about it ever hitting.

Forgot:
If you are running the stock 99/00 shaft you won't have this problem. These drive shafts are smaller, and stronger. The u-joint mounts are smaller, not as thick as the aluminum shafts are, therefore more clearence is available.

[This message has been edited by 1BADTK (edited 06-19-2001).]
 
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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 09:21 AM
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1badtrk: i agree! i did break another 1 last week during testing. it's because of axel windup.(and a little too much torque LOL! ) i got my shim kit for the rear and got a new setup for axel windup comming in the mail i hope to get it by this weekend before maplegrove..also for those of you who lowered your trucks you should check the pinion angle for it will change dramatically.especially if you changed the front hangers on the leaf springs...JL

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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 09:47 AM
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Johnny another damn driveshaft!

Come on john, run some juice. Imagine what kind of power you would be putting out then. You would be breaking the steel drivshafts then.

All you guys can waste your money on those driveshafts, but I'm sticking with stock on this one. HAHAHA 34,000 miles and still counting. J/K john, I got to mess with you once in awhile.

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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 09:40 PM
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From: President HALO
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jay Lincoln:
One last question for 1badtrk? Don't the rearend housings pivot upward? Or the oscillating too severly in both directions?</font>
Up/Down don't make any difference, its hitting the u-joint mounts. Without stopping the axle windup they will continue to break. Cal Trac's, bolting the springs together, Comptetion Engineering Traction Bars, something needs to be done before you guys go out and try running the L's in the low 12's and 11's.

 
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Old Jun 19, 2001 | 11:37 PM
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I built a set of slapper traction bars that I can use every day, and not wear out aluminum spring eye bushings. I have not run with slicks yet, but will be adding that to the truck when business picks up, and I can afford it.

I have raced twice with F1's and the bars, and cannot see any contact anywhere around the rear yoke. I'll keep you posted.

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Old Jun 20, 2001 | 12:37 AM
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Has anyone with traction devices (caltracs) broken the aluminum driveshafts? These should eliminate the windup/interference problems. Also, isn't chromemoly an alternative material for a driveshaft? It is light and fairly flexible, but tough.

It seems like this the problem should be simple to solve. I don't think that any driveshaft will survive any binding condition, due to the wind-up.

Any additional input would be helpful.

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Red 00"
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Old Jun 20, 2001 | 12:41 AM
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One last question for 1badtrk? Don't the rearend housings pivot upward? Or the oscillating too severly in both directions?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2001 | 05:00 AM
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Great, another problem with too much hp/tq! Looks like I might have to spend MORE money than I thought! LOL
 
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