Help WIth Finding How To Install A Boost Gauge Thread!
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Help WIth Finding How To Install A Boost Gauge Thread!
I saw a "HOW To" thread awhile back on how to install a boost guage. It had step by step instructions with pictures. I have tried to do a search but came up with nothing. Does anyone remeber this thread and if so how I could find it?
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Stuart, Fl
Hank,
when using the search feature, don't forget that the Lightning forum has been archived. You can search the archives by year using the Search In pull down menu and scroll down to the bottom.
I did find several links but most of the pictures are not linked anymore. Here is a great one written by Brian K.
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...36-001245.html
when using the search feature, don't forget that the Lightning forum has been archived. You can search the archives by year using the Search In pull down menu and scroll down to the bottom.
I did find several links but most of the pictures are not linked anymore. Here is a great one written by Brian K.
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...36-001245.html
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 4,402
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From: On the side of the Road attempting to explain 135 miles per hour
Hank,
Here ya go. (copied from my "how to" .doc archive) No pics, sorry.
**tip** soak the plastic tubing in HOT (not boiling) water as it allows you to straighten the tubing prior to install...trust me.
Autometer Phantom Boost Gauge Install for 1999.5 Ford Lightning
Parts Required:
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Phantom Boost Gauge, #5801
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Single Gauge Pod, #15305
1 - Rubber vacuum 'T' connector, 7/64"
3' - Black wire, 18awg
3' - Blue (or White) wire, 18 awg
4" Heat Shrink Tubing
Total Cost: $80.00
Tools Required:
Drill, with a 3/16" bit
Dremel ( or a drill with a large bit will work )
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Iron
Skill Level: Entry to Mid level. Don't be afraid to cut your door pillar trim.
Installation Time: 1 to 2 hours. Depending on skill level and ****-retentiveness.
Installing the Gauge:
Step 1) Mark the location of the Autometer Gauge pod. Choose your location based on personal preference. I recommend inserting the gauge to get the best location for your physical needs. For my install, I positioned the top of the gauge pod 17" from the top of the pillar trim piece. Mark the top and bottom of the gauge pod on the pillar trim using a pencil.
Step 2) Remove the factory pillar trim. Lightly pull the trim from the top. There are no screws, just a few push-on clips holding it on.
Step 3) This is a good time to use some fine sandpaper or a fine file to remove any sharp or obtrusive edges that may be on your gauge pod. Align the gauge pod on the pillar trim according to your marks made in step 1. Drill 1 3/16" hole in each corner of the gauge pod. I drilled about ½" from the top & bottom edges and about ¼" from the side of the gauge pod. Be sure to go through the pillar trim too. After drilling each hole, insert the trim plug provided in the Autometer gauge pod package.
Step 4) Turn the pillar trim over, so the gauge pod is facing the ground and make a hole for the boost host and electrical wires through the back of the pillar. The holes should be towards the bottom of the gauge pod ( where the bottom, back of the gauge will be ). Its easy to use a dremmel tool but you could also drill a couple large holes.
Step 5) Put the green cover over the gauge light. Solder the 3' black and blue wires to the existing black and white wires of the autometer lamp. Note: I used a blue wire only because I think of it similar to a amplifier's remote turn on lead. Cover with heat shrink tubing.
Step 6) Connect the ¼" to 1/8" brass adapter to the back of the gauge. Be sure to use Nylon Plummers Tape (NPT) or an equivilent sealer on the threads. Insert the boost tube through the brass sealing nut and ferrule. Tighten hand tight plus ¼ turn.
Step 7) Run the Boost hose and light wires through the holes in the pillar trim and insert the gauge into the pod. Test the fit and also the boost hose & wires for kinks or bad fits. If needed, make a larger hole for the wires & hose to run through. When a good fit is obtained, remove the gauge about half way out of the pod.
Step 8) Run the wires and boost tube down the side of the dash into the fuse box area. It will help a lot to remove the plastic trim cover from the fuse box area.
Step 9) Re-install the pillar trim in the truck.
Step 10) Attach the black (ground) wire to an appropriate grounding point. I used one at the bottom of the fuse panel.
Step 11) Connect the blue (power) wire to the dimmer circuit. I used the good old dimmer fuse for this. It is a 5 AMP fuse located in the 2nd row, the 4th one from the bottom. Remove the fuse, insert the wire into one side, and re-install the fuse.
Step 12) Disconnect the factory 'L' connector from the factory boost hose. This 'L' is located just under the bottom of the dash, just to the left of the gas pedal. The factory boost hose can be identified coming from the firewall. Its black, hard plastic, with the Ford part# tag on it.
Step 13) Using the 7/64" rubber vacuum 'T' connector, connect the 2 factory boost hoses and the new Autometer hose (clear).
Step 14) Site in the drivers seat and get the best angle of view to the boost gauge by twisting the gauge clockwise/counterclockwise. When you have the best view, finish inserting the gauge into the pod.
Testing the installation:
Step 1) Start the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show a vacuum.
Step 2) Stop the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show 0 (zero). I found my stock gauge to show vaccuum.
And now the part we have all been waiting for……….. Test Drive the Lightning. Out of curiosity, I found myself paying more attention to the gauge then the road, so be careful!!!
Pros: It looks cool!! Really, it will provide a much more accurate boost reading than the stock gauge. If you are curious or plan on uping the boost, it's a must. It really does look stock with the black gauge pod.
Cons: Working with that hard plastic boost tube is a real P.I.T.A. (Pain in the ***). Finding the rubber vacuum 'T' connector at the local parts store. For a $1.50 part it sure is hard to find.
[This message has been edited by Speedin Bob (edited 06-09-2001).]
Here ya go. (copied from my "how to" .doc archive) No pics, sorry.
**tip** soak the plastic tubing in HOT (not boiling) water as it allows you to straighten the tubing prior to install...trust me.
Autometer Phantom Boost Gauge Install for 1999.5 Ford Lightning
Parts Required:
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Phantom Boost Gauge, #5801
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Single Gauge Pod, #15305
1 - Rubber vacuum 'T' connector, 7/64"
3' - Black wire, 18awg
3' - Blue (or White) wire, 18 awg
4" Heat Shrink Tubing
Total Cost: $80.00
Tools Required:
Drill, with a 3/16" bit
Dremel ( or a drill with a large bit will work )
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Iron
Skill Level: Entry to Mid level. Don't be afraid to cut your door pillar trim.
Installation Time: 1 to 2 hours. Depending on skill level and ****-retentiveness.
Installing the Gauge:
Step 1) Mark the location of the Autometer Gauge pod. Choose your location based on personal preference. I recommend inserting the gauge to get the best location for your physical needs. For my install, I positioned the top of the gauge pod 17" from the top of the pillar trim piece. Mark the top and bottom of the gauge pod on the pillar trim using a pencil.
Step 2) Remove the factory pillar trim. Lightly pull the trim from the top. There are no screws, just a few push-on clips holding it on.
Step 3) This is a good time to use some fine sandpaper or a fine file to remove any sharp or obtrusive edges that may be on your gauge pod. Align the gauge pod on the pillar trim according to your marks made in step 1. Drill 1 3/16" hole in each corner of the gauge pod. I drilled about ½" from the top & bottom edges and about ¼" from the side of the gauge pod. Be sure to go through the pillar trim too. After drilling each hole, insert the trim plug provided in the Autometer gauge pod package.
Step 4) Turn the pillar trim over, so the gauge pod is facing the ground and make a hole for the boost host and electrical wires through the back of the pillar. The holes should be towards the bottom of the gauge pod ( where the bottom, back of the gauge will be ). Its easy to use a dremmel tool but you could also drill a couple large holes.
Step 5) Put the green cover over the gauge light. Solder the 3' black and blue wires to the existing black and white wires of the autometer lamp. Note: I used a blue wire only because I think of it similar to a amplifier's remote turn on lead. Cover with heat shrink tubing.
Step 6) Connect the ¼" to 1/8" brass adapter to the back of the gauge. Be sure to use Nylon Plummers Tape (NPT) or an equivilent sealer on the threads. Insert the boost tube through the brass sealing nut and ferrule. Tighten hand tight plus ¼ turn.
Step 7) Run the Boost hose and light wires through the holes in the pillar trim and insert the gauge into the pod. Test the fit and also the boost hose & wires for kinks or bad fits. If needed, make a larger hole for the wires & hose to run through. When a good fit is obtained, remove the gauge about half way out of the pod.
Step 8) Run the wires and boost tube down the side of the dash into the fuse box area. It will help a lot to remove the plastic trim cover from the fuse box area.
Step 9) Re-install the pillar trim in the truck.
Step 10) Attach the black (ground) wire to an appropriate grounding point. I used one at the bottom of the fuse panel.
Step 11) Connect the blue (power) wire to the dimmer circuit. I used the good old dimmer fuse for this. It is a 5 AMP fuse located in the 2nd row, the 4th one from the bottom. Remove the fuse, insert the wire into one side, and re-install the fuse.
Step 12) Disconnect the factory 'L' connector from the factory boost hose. This 'L' is located just under the bottom of the dash, just to the left of the gas pedal. The factory boost hose can be identified coming from the firewall. Its black, hard plastic, with the Ford part# tag on it.
Step 13) Using the 7/64" rubber vacuum 'T' connector, connect the 2 factory boost hoses and the new Autometer hose (clear).
Step 14) Site in the drivers seat and get the best angle of view to the boost gauge by twisting the gauge clockwise/counterclockwise. When you have the best view, finish inserting the gauge into the pod.
Testing the installation:
Step 1) Start the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show a vacuum.
Step 2) Stop the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges show 0 (zero). I found my stock gauge to show vaccuum.
And now the part we have all been waiting for……….. Test Drive the Lightning. Out of curiosity, I found myself paying more attention to the gauge then the road, so be careful!!!
Pros: It looks cool!! Really, it will provide a much more accurate boost reading than the stock gauge. If you are curious or plan on uping the boost, it's a must. It really does look stock with the black gauge pod.
Cons: Working with that hard plastic boost tube is a real P.I.T.A. (Pain in the ***). Finding the rubber vacuum 'T' connector at the local parts store. For a $1.50 part it sure is hard to find.
[This message has been edited by Speedin Bob (edited 06-09-2001).]
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 6,798
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From: TEXAS
If the original author will step forward with permsission and pictures we can post a HTML version either here https://www.f150online.com/tech/index.html or on My site.
Doug
------------------
Picked up Silver 2000 Lightning 2/28/00!!
1st run 13.9 sec 1/4 !! Best Run 13.025
Silver_2000@SVTLightnings.com
www.SVTLightnings.com
2000 Lightning, FMS 3.73 gears ( Expensive ), PSP 4 Way Chip, PSP Intake, Valentine 1, Snuglid, Bedrug, Lighted Ford Logos, Superchip R9, and 3m Panther Black nickel tint, Clear corners., Boston Acoustics 5x7s and Components, Alpine v12 5 channel Amp and JL Sub, Chrome SVT Rims and G Force R1a Autocross Tires, .
Link to my profile because the UBB doesnt support semicolons any more
Doug
------------------
Picked up Silver 2000 Lightning 2/28/00!!
1st run 13.9 sec 1/4 !! Best Run 13.025
Silver_2000@SVTLightnings.com
www.SVTLightnings.com
2000 Lightning, FMS 3.73 gears ( Expensive ), PSP 4 Way Chip, PSP Intake, Valentine 1, Snuglid, Bedrug, Lighted Ford Logos, Superchip R9, and 3m Panther Black nickel tint, Clear corners., Boston Acoustics 5x7s and Components, Alpine v12 5 channel Amp and JL Sub, Chrome SVT Rims and G Force R1a Autocross Tires, .
Link to my profile because the UBB doesnt support semicolons any more
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 738
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
You are a freakin goof ball...you where sooooooo confident that you could install those gauges..."those things are gonna be easy to install"..my cousin is "mechanically inclined........he screws up everything!!!"...haha
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red 1994 lightning....oh my god i never expected this thing to keep running this long......130,000 miles and still running strong.........
00 white L...# 1993 build date 4/5/00 Johnny Lightning Enhanced!!! Straight pipe exhaust, billet third brakelight cover, water wetter, mobil 1. cant wait to install that "package" for Ted!!!! Watch out Z06!!!
------------------
red 1994 lightning....oh my god i never expected this thing to keep running this long......130,000 miles and still running strong.........
00 white L...# 1993 build date 4/5/00 Johnny Lightning Enhanced!!! Straight pipe exhaust, billet third brakelight cover, water wetter, mobil 1. cant wait to install that "package" for Ted!!!! Watch out Z06!!!
Banned
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 196
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From: Stuart, Fl
Hey Speedin Bob,
I guess the link I seached for and posted above, which is where you copied the info you posted, was too complicated for HANKFAN to click on. Thanks for wasting some more bandwidth. From now on we should all just ask you directly any question we might have and patiently wait for the your know-all reply. Who needs a search engine when we have you.
[This message has been edited by Hurricane Larry (edited 06-10-2001).]
I guess the link I seached for and posted above, which is where you copied the info you posted, was too complicated for HANKFAN to click on. Thanks for wasting some more bandwidth. From now on we should all just ask you directly any question we might have and patiently wait for the your know-all reply. Who needs a search engine when we have you.
[This message has been edited by Hurricane Larry (edited 06-10-2001).]