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Warrning for those who run super whites in front

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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 02:21 PM
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Arrow Warrning for those who run super whites in front

All of a sudden my front head lights went out both high and low beam.

Took it to a dealership to discover the heat of the super-brights burnt out connectors and a few other parts. My cost to have everything replaced was $83.00 because I get work done at 10% over cost. If I didn't, the price would be around $150-$200. It was not covered by warranty because of the bulbs.

This thread is for your info.



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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 02:28 PM
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Chances are it wasn't actually the heat put out by the bulbs that burned up the connectors...but rather the current draw through the connectors to power those nice bright bulbs.

People should always take this into account when installing these.

I'm glad to hear nothing caught fire. I've seen worse. The factory stock wiring isn't a heavy enough gauge to handle the current draw over a long period of time.

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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 02:33 PM
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JIM,

WELCOME BACK OLE BUDDY!!!!

Thanks for the heads up..
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 02:35 PM
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Were you running big lights or something like a PIAA 65/55 07 ??

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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 03:09 PM
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JIM: We missed you! Where ya been??
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 03:22 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by WA 2 FST:
Chances are it wasn't actually the heat put out by the bulbs that burned up the connectors...but rather the current draw through the connectors to power those nice bright bulbs.

People should always take this into account when installing these.
</font>
So it would be advised to rewire before putting in new bulbs taht have high current draw?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 04:28 PM
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Jim,
What was the wattage of those super bright bulbs that you were using?

Andy
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 04:44 PM
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captainoblivious,

I'd certainly find out the gauge wire that is required for a certain watt bulb, and if the stock stuff isn't big enough...then yes, rewire it.

No one wants to burn up their wires and the harnesses, but worst case would be a fire and the truck goes down in flames. Certainly this is not likely, but its not completely out of the realm of possibility.

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Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--615rwhp/594rwtq--Featured in Super Ford 1/00
98 Saleen S351 #15 (12.63 @ 113.8)
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.8)--364rwhp/447rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 07:08 PM
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What, pray tell, are Super Brights? (I'm looking for brighter head-lights for my 99L.)

[This message has been edited by Big Red Truck (edited 06-01-2001).]
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 08:55 PM
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Jim, were you using the 85/110 bulbs? I've had my 55 watt bulbs for 6 mos., and have had no problems.

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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 09:31 PM
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NOSTROMO
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I just put sylvania cool blues into my headlights.....geez makes me wonder now....
 
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Old Jun 1, 2001 | 09:41 PM
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What I wanna know is why doesn't the fuse open? What's the fuse size? Fuse should open to protect the wiring.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2001 | 12:34 AM
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Jim! Dad Gummit...update the report! NO PIAA'S ???
 
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Old Jun 2, 2001 | 09:59 AM
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They do make an upgrade harness that should be used with the higher wattage lights, cost about $50. APC makes them.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2001 | 06:02 PM
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Jim, welcome back. To those using higher watage bulbs you can also wire in a relay. I had to do this on my Sciroco. I was running 55/100 low beam and 100w high beam, 4 headlight system, 400 watts total on high beam. Extremely bright, 5,000ft and 7,000 ft lights. Put the relays in and wire power side directly to battery w/ heavy gage wire.
Then wire headlights to relay, again use heavy gage wire. Finaly you wire in the original headlight wire to activate the switch. This set up allows you to by pass the small gage stock wiring found on most auto headlight systems. If you run this set up with high power radio (ie 1000w amps, ect.) next upgrade heavy duty alternator or you risk running the battery down while driving! Have fun.

[This message has been edited by REDHOTL (edited 06-02-2001).]

[This message has been edited by REDHOTL (edited 06-02-2001).]
 
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