Changing spark plugs???
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Orland Park, IL just south of chicago
Changing spark plugs???
I know I'm going to get allot of chit for not changing my plugs out already but who cares.
Is there any place to find some good helpful hints on changing the plugs in my truck. I know this is going to be a pain.
and don't even say it to me novlem, I checked the search page and all those pages sem to be missing due to allot of changes on the site?
Help guys, I got 7 days left to get this thing done, HAHAHAHA.
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Is there any place to find some good helpful hints on changing the plugs in my truck. I know this is going to be a pain.
and don't even say it to me novlem, I checked the search page and all those pages sem to be missing due to allot of changes on the site?
Help guys, I got 7 days left to get this thing done, HAHAHAHA.
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From: Baltimore, MD
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From: Midwest
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From: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Here are Chuck's tips:
Lightning Sparkplug Replacement Tips and Tools
The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom, in the middle back, next to the wires. You push up on it.
Tools needed are: 3/8" drive ratchet with 2 - 6" extensions, 2 - 3" extensions and a 5/8" sparkplug socket with rubber plug-holding insert. 1/4" drive ratchet with 2 - 2" extensions, 1 - 4" extension and a 7mm socket and a 1/4" small breaker bar. This tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on the driver’s side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit. A telescopic magnet would help in removing and replacing the 7mm bolts.
You do not have to take the fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job. Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist the coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out, wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air, blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.
The 3/8" ratchet, 2 - 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug back takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.
On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.
The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the driver’s side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar. This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble.
By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job. It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.
Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs. Start your 7mm bolts and plugs by hand before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to cross-thread that aluminum.
[This message has been edited by DHFerguson (edited 05-10-2001).]
Lightning Sparkplug Replacement Tips and Tools
The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom, in the middle back, next to the wires. You push up on it.
Tools needed are: 3/8" drive ratchet with 2 - 6" extensions, 2 - 3" extensions and a 5/8" sparkplug socket with rubber plug-holding insert. 1/4" drive ratchet with 2 - 2" extensions, 1 - 4" extension and a 7mm socket and a 1/4" small breaker bar. This tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on the driver’s side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit. A telescopic magnet would help in removing and replacing the 7mm bolts.
You do not have to take the fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job. Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist the coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out, wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air, blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.
The 3/8" ratchet, 2 - 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug back takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.
On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.
The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the driver’s side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar. This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble.
By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job. It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.
Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs. Start your 7mm bolts and plugs by hand before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to cross-thread that aluminum.
[This message has been edited by DHFerguson (edited 05-10-2001).]
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Joined: Mar 2000
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RTKILLA,
You might wanna start now it may take 7 days to complete
The heads they were talking about in MM&FF were 5.4 heads, which includes all current 5.4 heads. Another dumb mistake Ford made. Just think only 4 threads in aluminum heads. No wonder why people were blowing plugs out.
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John Armstrong
2000 Red Lightning
#444 of 4966
Born 2/22/2000
Went home 3/6/2000
You might wanna start now it may take 7 days to complete
The heads they were talking about in MM&FF were 5.4 heads, which includes all current 5.4 heads. Another dumb mistake Ford made. Just think only 4 threads in aluminum heads. No wonder why people were blowing plugs out.
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John Armstrong
2000 Red Lightning
#444 of 4966
Born 2/22/2000
Went home 3/6/2000
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From: President HALO
In order for the stock plugs to last 100,000 miles you will need to stay out of the NOS! But RTKILLA needs to learn how to change them anyway, with nitrous he will be doing it often so experience is a must at this point. 
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From: Warner Robins, Ga, CSA
according to a recent mm&ff article; there are only 4(four) threads in the sparkplug holes in the 01 heads. hope i don't overtighten or cross-thread when it's time for mine to be changed. dan
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2001 Lightning, silver, bot/picked up on 05/08/01, 1997 f150 xlt 4.6L 4x2 with: a/f one fipk, superchip, optima battery, bbk 75mm throttle body, edelbrock ias shocks--2001 lightning to come
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2001 Lightning, silver, bot/picked up on 05/08/01, 1997 f150 xlt 4.6L 4x2 with: a/f one fipk, superchip, optima battery, bbk 75mm throttle body, edelbrock ias shocks--2001 lightning to come