Boost Actuator
Does anyone realy understand what this thing does. I have heard all kinds of explanations. From it bleads off boost when the motor is too hot to it does not have the ability to control boost. Can the tuners mess with this thing from the chip? I wonder if the shop manual has a standard explanation. If I remember, It has two hoses and a wire.
try this site for tips and tricks http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightningpage/tips.html
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01L,Lowered, Black,Downey SST,Straight Pipes,Chipped,Wet Okole Covers........ Toy: 91 Heritage Softtail Classic/Lowered
[This message has been edited by cabraco (edited 04-18-2001).]
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01L,Lowered, Black,Downey SST,Straight Pipes,Chipped,Wet Okole Covers........ Toy: 91 Heritage Softtail Classic/Lowered
[This message has been edited by cabraco (edited 04-18-2001).]
It is the blower bypass. For some good pictures get the April MM&FF magazine. Basically it is a vacuum actuated throttle plate underneath the supercharger. The actuator is outside the blower. It's the small black cylinder on the driver's side of the blower. It has two vacuum lines and a small rod coming out the bottom.
When the engine is under vacuum, like when you are cruising down the highway, the actuator opens the throttle plate and bypasses the blower. This reduces the drag that the blower puts on the engine during cruising and increases fuel economy etc.
Moving the actuator up and down on it's bolts, changes the threshold when the bypass throttle plate closes.
Do a search for more info and pictures....it's in the FAQ too.
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Scott Weatherford
351W 1993 LX 11.9 @ 118MPH (Drag Radials)
Black 2001 Lightning 13.62 @ ??? MPH
WWW.Mustang351W.F150online.NET
WWW.Lightning.F150online.NET
When the engine is under vacuum, like when you are cruising down the highway, the actuator opens the throttle plate and bypasses the blower. This reduces the drag that the blower puts on the engine during cruising and increases fuel economy etc.
Moving the actuator up and down on it's bolts, changes the threshold when the bypass throttle plate closes.
Do a search for more info and pictures....it's in the FAQ too.
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Scott Weatherford
351W 1993 LX 11.9 @ 118MPH (Drag Radials)
Black 2001 Lightning 13.62 @ ??? MPH
WWW.Mustang351W.F150online.NET
WWW.Lightning.F150online.NET
In a nutshell...
1.Mark the bolts so you know where you started
2.Loosen bolts and move it up a hair
3. Test drive it
4. If better leave alone, if same or worse repeat step 2
I tinkered with mine and was able to get boost up to about 9.5 (before chip) from about 7. I had it over 10 with one try but it didn't feel as fast (seat of the pants meter) so I put it back to where it had good boost and felt the fastest. Who knows what kind of gains you'll get but if your anything like me you'll have to at least try it. Mine felt best when raised about 2mm.
Adam
01 Black L - Chipenfiltered, splitfired, billetted, and grooved thanks to Blaupunkt, Alpine, Sony, Clarion, Dynomat, and MTX
1.Mark the bolts so you know where you started
2.Loosen bolts and move it up a hair
3. Test drive it
4. If better leave alone, if same or worse repeat step 2
I tinkered with mine and was able to get boost up to about 9.5 (before chip) from about 7. I had it over 10 with one try but it didn't feel as fast (seat of the pants meter) so I put it back to where it had good boost and felt the fastest. Who knows what kind of gains you'll get but if your anything like me you'll have to at least try it. Mine felt best when raised about 2mm.
Adam
01 Black L - Chipenfiltered, splitfired, billetted, and grooved thanks to Blaupunkt, Alpine, Sony, Clarion, Dynomat, and MTX
MID_12's,
That's what I did and those are my results, nothing more, nothing less. I moved the whole actuator up and got higher boost, as a matter of fact when I moved it as high as possible it took more pedal to produce boost then when it was lower.
Adam
01 Black L - Chipenfiltered, splitfired, billetted, and grooved thanks to Blaupunkt, Alpine, Sony, Clarion, Dynomat, and MTX
That's what I did and those are my results, nothing more, nothing less. I moved the whole actuator up and got higher boost, as a matter of fact when I moved it as high as possible it took more pedal to produce boost then when it was lower.
Adam
01 Black L - Chipenfiltered, splitfired, billetted, and grooved thanks to Blaupunkt, Alpine, Sony, Clarion, Dynomat, and MTX
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"when I moved it as high as possible it took more pedal to produce boost then when it was lower. " Right, if you move the actuator up, it will take longer to get boost! If you move it up high enough, then the valve/flapper will not seal, for full boost. once the valve is all the way closed, you can't get anymore boost, but you can make it come on a little bit earlier, with moving the actuator down. Some have reported, that if they move it to much, then they will have a little boost just cruising the highway. I can't get mine to do that, unless there is a hill, or a head wind, or over 95 MPH.
Has anyone else noticed this, I only get about 6-8 lbs of boost in first gear, then it climbs up to about 10 in second. STOCK.
Has anyone ever tinkered with the hyperdrive unit located just under the fuel atomizer regulator?
Has anyone ever tinkered with the hyperdrive unit located just under the fuel atomizer regulator?
I hope that one of the tuners will respond to this. I might be wrong, but when you lower the vacuum, the lever goes down, so the lower you move the actuator, the lower the lever would be initially?? hence quicker boost???


