Stock 04 to Whipple kit
Stock 04 to Whipple kit
Ok, I the worlds best BS when it comes to myself.
Help me with this logic.
I have enjoyed my garage queen truck since I bought it new in 04. I kept it basicaly bone stock and only have 15k miles.
From time to time I think about adding a pulley and tuner and they have changed over the years. I just kept putting it off.
I thought if I bought the basic Whipple kit http://www.teamjdm.com/shop/product_...roducts_id=211
It would be a simple upgrade and not have to spend money on other upgrades.
Here is my list of things I won't have to do if I go this route.
Oh, here is the Whipple Link for more detail http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/...sp?ProdID=1170
1. No need for bigger intercooler because screws make less heat.
2. No need for cold air intake as kit comes with one.
3. No need to mess with stock crank pulley or belt because I will get 4lbs more boost with stock lower pulley.
4. No need to buy tuner because kit comes with one from kit.
So I guess in my mind I am deducting the above items from the cost of the kit.
In the end I hope to gain 4lbs of boost with less stress on the engine and be running cooler boost temps than currently with stock. Future HP upgrades will be easier and I can always easily go back to stock.
Does any of this make sense to anyone else but me? I just figure I'm skiping a lot of pain on the expense and learning curve.
Anybody else do just this kit.
Help me with this logic.
I have enjoyed my garage queen truck since I bought it new in 04. I kept it basicaly bone stock and only have 15k miles.
From time to time I think about adding a pulley and tuner and they have changed over the years. I just kept putting it off.
I thought if I bought the basic Whipple kit http://www.teamjdm.com/shop/product_...roducts_id=211
It would be a simple upgrade and not have to spend money on other upgrades.
Here is my list of things I won't have to do if I go this route.
Oh, here is the Whipple Link for more detail http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/...sp?ProdID=1170
1. No need for bigger intercooler because screws make less heat.
2. No need for cold air intake as kit comes with one.
3. No need to mess with stock crank pulley or belt because I will get 4lbs more boost with stock lower pulley.
4. No need to buy tuner because kit comes with one from kit.
So I guess in my mind I am deducting the above items from the cost of the kit.
In the end I hope to gain 4lbs of boost with less stress on the engine and be running cooler boost temps than currently with stock. Future HP upgrades will be easier and I can always easily go back to stock.
Does any of this make sense to anyone else but me? I just figure I'm skiping a lot of pain on the expense and learning curve.
Anybody else do just this kit.
Last edited by EZGZ; Jan 1, 2008 at 12:24 PM.
whipple with 4lb lower, 3.375 blower pulley, cats, catback, and a dyno tune here. 450rwhp/495rwtq on a very very safe street tune (13* timing). i went ahead and got 60lb inj and dual 255 fuel pumps to be safe.
i spent a lot of money / time with pullies, tunes, and a ported eaton. if i had to start over i would go with the whipple first but i would go with a good dyno tune over a canned tune. my dyno tune make 40 more rwhp and 25 more rwtq than my email tune. with the dyno tune you get the best tune for your truck and your tuner can build the tune for your needs (ie street, drag or road racing).
i spent a lot of money / time with pullies, tunes, and a ported eaton. if i had to start over i would go with the whipple first but i would go with a good dyno tune over a canned tune. my dyno tune make 40 more rwhp and 25 more rwtq than my email tune. with the dyno tune you get the best tune for your truck and your tuner can build the tune for your needs (ie street, drag or road racing).
I like your plan. Makes perfect sense to me.......and it looks cool too. Not sure I buy into the cooler charge though. Guess it will depend on the boost level. Perhaps at 4 pounds over stock it will have a cooler iat2.
With you being up in the clouds like me I bet you could take a good bit more boost than 4 pounds extra. We do lose about 1/5th of our sea level hp up here. So that 450 would turn into 360. Altitude really sucks.
With you being up in the clouds like me I bet you could take a good bit more boost than 4 pounds extra. We do lose about 1/5th of our sea level hp up here. So that 450 would turn into 360. Altitude really sucks.
Hellz ya it makes sence G
( like there's one iota of sence in me
)
Putting a KB or Whipple on a stock L is actually a very smart move, in fact in your case and LACK OF MODS you can add an easy 100 - 150 HP right off the bat, and that my friend is something that will change that L into a whole new machine
( like there's one iota of sence in me
)Putting a KB or Whipple on a stock L is actually a very smart move, in fact in your case and LACK OF MODS you can add an easy 100 - 150 HP right off the bat, and that my friend is something that will change that L into a whole new machine
How often would one have to check or replace plugs.
That drivers side looks like you would have to take everything off to get at it.
One other reason I forgot to add was that flaking of the stock eaton rotor coating that seems to come off. My 99 was really coming apart. I'm not sure what issues there were with the 04 I have now.
Do the screw compressors have any issues like this. I read that it was coated with something.
Yeah a true 425hp at 5k ft would sure be a nice change.
That drivers side looks like you would have to take everything off to get at it.
One other reason I forgot to add was that flaking of the stock eaton rotor coating that seems to come off. My 99 was really coming apart. I'm not sure what issues there were with the 04 I have now.
Do the screw compressors have any issues like this. I read that it was coated with something.
Yeah a true 425hp at 5k ft would sure be a nice change.
Rotor flaking is sooooooooooooo over rated and absolutely NOTHING for you to worry about. AMOF now a days some companys actually remove the coating before porting an Eaton, (but yes Ford went to a better coating and you have a good year)
Twin Screws DO NOT have that problem but unfortunately the new KB 2.6L S/C's do however have a locking up issue (just as the original KB did many years back). If you fear sparkplug changes G DO NOT get a Whipple, it is an absolute ****** nightmare to change plugs. If you could find a NEW 140 cu KB I would do that in a second (the locking up issue was fixed on the original KB's some time ago) and changing plugs is cake. JLP might have a brand new 140 cu KB in stock and they're only $2500.00 or Cheaper Brand New.
As for your current plug changing concerns, TAKE THAT USELESS EGR SYSTEM OFF.
As far as how often to change plugs I find once a season is fine for me but they come out looking perfect so I can prob get 3 yrs no prob even with my driving habbits, hehehehehe
G the Whipple is the best choice out there but the way it blocks the plugs just pisses me off because a 2 second design change could prevent it, the 2.3"Orig KB" would be a fine choice and actually your Biggest Bang for the Buck since you cant use that Whipple to near it's potential anyway. Plus the best documented proff you'll find is that maybe the Whipple is good for 2/10th's better ET over the KB on the Worlds Fastest L's in Full Race Trim.
The Big News in SC's this yr is off course Larger KB's and Whipples (yes the Whipple still has the same plug blocking design) but you dont want those so keep your choice between a NEW 2.3 KB or a 2.3 Whipple, either one will give you what you want...
Twin Screws DO NOT have that problem but unfortunately the new KB 2.6L S/C's do however have a locking up issue (just as the original KB did many years back). If you fear sparkplug changes G DO NOT get a Whipple, it is an absolute ****** nightmare to change plugs. If you could find a NEW 140 cu KB I would do that in a second (the locking up issue was fixed on the original KB's some time ago) and changing plugs is cake. JLP might have a brand new 140 cu KB in stock and they're only $2500.00 or Cheaper Brand New.
As for your current plug changing concerns, TAKE THAT USELESS EGR SYSTEM OFF.
As far as how often to change plugs I find once a season is fine for me but they come out looking perfect so I can prob get 3 yrs no prob even with my driving habbits, hehehehehe
G the Whipple is the best choice out there but the way it blocks the plugs just pisses me off because a 2 second design change could prevent it, the 2.3"Orig KB" would be a fine choice and actually your Biggest Bang for the Buck since you cant use that Whipple to near it's potential anyway. Plus the best documented proff you'll find is that maybe the Whipple is good for 2/10th's better ET over the KB on the Worlds Fastest L's in Full Race Trim.
The Big News in SC's this yr is off course Larger KB's and Whipples (yes the Whipple still has the same plug blocking design) but you dont want those so keep your choice between a NEW 2.3 KB or a 2.3 Whipple, either one will give you what you want...
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Hmmmm
still chewing on the response's.
Intersting research.
For some reason the KB doesn't do it for me. Also the fact they have had repeating problems on different models and as I recall that was a bad time for a lot of folks. Just seems to me that they got pressured into releasing something that wasn't fully tested and suffered. Leaves a bad taste in my mouth.
On the other hand we waited it seemed forever for the Whipple and it's doing ok.
Or is it??????
I don't want this to be a high maint. upgrade.
Just stick on the kit, put in plugs and a tune and drive it for a few more years.
still chewing on the response's.Intersting research.
For some reason the KB doesn't do it for me. Also the fact they have had repeating problems on different models and as I recall that was a bad time for a lot of folks. Just seems to me that they got pressured into releasing something that wasn't fully tested and suffered. Leaves a bad taste in my mouth.
On the other hand we waited it seemed forever for the Whipple and it's doing ok.
Or is it??????
I don't want this to be a high maint. upgrade.
Just stick on the kit, put in plugs and a tune and drive it for a few more years.
I'm planning to go with the Whipple soon as well. Do a little searching, you'll find there are many owners that have been running the kit reliably for some time now.
There are guys running it from 430-500+ rwhp on the stock block. It seems when tuned correctly and you get the supporting mods, it can be ran in this power range fairly reliably. I haven't seen a trend of more blown motors with the Whipple over just your standard pullied Eaton.
There are guys running it from 430-500+ rwhp on the stock block. It seems when tuned correctly and you get the supporting mods, it can be ran in this power range fairly reliably. I haven't seen a trend of more blown motors with the Whipple over just your standard pullied Eaton.
Cant argue with either one of you on those responses, I would agree that there is NOT a rise in blown motors with larger SC's like the Whipple + KB, amof if anything it might actually be safer because you can achieve more power with less boost and timing in both cases. As always it's all in the tune and it's usually when people push them when the problems start....
And G your also right @ the problems with both KB's when first released, it does scare you and there is no doubt the Whipples have a perfect track record. Just be aware that the install bites monkey a$$ and changing plugs afterwards is an absolute nightmare (I've been searching for someone to build me a 2 piece manifold to correct this problem).
And G your also right @ the problems with both KB's when first released, it does scare you and there is no doubt the Whipples have a perfect track record. Just be aware that the install bites monkey a$$ and changing plugs afterwards is an absolute nightmare (I've been searching for someone to build me a 2 piece manifold to correct this problem).
im running a whipple stock block... 60lb injectors, ba2400maf, dual walbro 255's
im putting 530/620 on the stock internals...
been fie for 10K miles now...
im sure it will let loose at those power levels shortly... thats why im building a motor in my gargae as we speak...
but i am running a 3" upper and a 8.4" lower....
pretty agressive... whn she's built next month, I will run the 9" lower with the 3" upper... maybe even a 10" lower... who know... but its safe and it will be a pian in the ****, but when you get her running you will love it...
im putting 530/620 on the stock internals...
been fie for 10K miles now...
im sure it will let loose at those power levels shortly... thats why im building a motor in my gargae as we speak...
but i am running a 3" upper and a 8.4" lower....
pretty agressive... whn she's built next month, I will run the 9" lower with the 3" upper... maybe even a 10" lower... who know... but its safe and it will be a pian in the ****, but when you get her running you will love it...
Just currious
I've never heard a screw go down the track or anywhere else that I know of.
How do the screws sound in comparison to the Roots type scream?
I'm guessing that that much air getting sucked in at full boost screams no matter what.
No biggy, that sure wouldn't be the deciding factor. Personaly I like some noise when I'm on full boost.
I'm running Bassani cat back. I'm sure that will growl a bit more with more going in.
Two hrs don't sound to bad. Like I said. Intercooler probably needs cleaning before every season anyway.
I've never heard a screw go down the track or anywhere else that I know of.
How do the screws sound in comparison to the Roots type scream?
I'm guessing that that much air getting sucked in at full boost screams no matter what.
No biggy, that sure wouldn't be the deciding factor. Personaly I like some noise when I'm on full boost.
I'm running Bassani cat back. I'm sure that will growl a bit more with more going in.
Two hrs don't sound to bad. Like I said. Intercooler probably needs cleaning before every season anyway.
sounds mean.. I have no s/c sound loss at all....
I don't need to clean my intercooler anymore...
I have no pcv system so oil cannot get in, and I do not have an egr system, so dirty air mixed with soot does not get recirculated...
I don't need to clean my intercooler anymore...
I have no pcv system so oil cannot get in, and I do not have an egr system, so dirty air mixed with soot does not get recirculated...
Theirs so much good info above it's tuff to add any real info, I think the 2.3 Whipple is the ticket, on my combo 490HP street tune w a 3.375 upper, 4lb lower and just about every other mod available, what I like is that I don't need to swap blower once I go built, just a pulley change.


